Parlour, Kensal Green – Where Comic Book Meets Gastro Chic.
Will you walk into my parlour?” said the Spider to the Fly,
‘Tis the prettiest little parlour that ever you did spy;
The way into my parlour is up a winding stair,
And I’ve a many curious things to shew when you are there.
You know when you get a bad case of earworm. And when it isn’t really appropriate. At all. That’s what happened to me on my recent visit to Parlour, the recently relaunched Perritt Brothers pub/dining room in Kensal Green.
Of course, it didn’t help that we went on a VERY wet day and that when we arrived at the American Diner meets British Kitch Parlour Kensal Green, we discovered a menu full of innuendo. Starting with the cocktail I enjoyed, the Not-In Hill ‘Gypsy’s Lavender Vodka, Vanilla, Lemon and Gomme. Very delicious, though pronounced a ‘Girl’s Drink’ by my dining companion who ordered himself a half from the wide selection beers on tap!
Innuendo was carried through to the appearance of some of the dishes. Apparently chef, Jesse Dunford Wood, who headed up the relaunch has a sense of humour. But more on that later. We started with some relatively safe tasters. Very fresh, delicious and obviously home-made soda bread. Home-made hickory smoked salmon, potted shrimps and a pretty salad of chicory, pear and walnut.
I’m trying to eat healthy food, so opted for the smoked salmon fishcake with hollandaise for my main course, which came complete with poached egg. Now, I’m not usually an egg fan but in this case, it seemed entirely appropriate and worked very well, helping to ensure the fishcake didn’t seem too dry.
That left my companion with Cow Pie. It was one of those dishes that arrived in comic book style, with a marrow bone funnel pushed into what I can only describe as a ‘Boy Food’ bowl of pastry covered meat.
He looked happy as he piled in copious quantities of buttered cabbage and SMA-ASH (smoked mashed potatoes).
On to desserts. The food so far had been pleasantly substantial and I really wasn’t in need of anything more than a pretty elderflower and prosecco granite. But we were persuaded into a ‘Posh Platter of Parlour’s Puddings’ which turned out to be a portion of pretty much everything on the dessert menu.
If you are someone who likes the idea of food as theatre, this is a good place to dine. ‘Wagon Wheel’ is made in front of you, marshmallows toasted with a blowtorch to make a serious biscuit!
And popping rolos are full of popping candy.
My favourite dessert was the deconstructed Clementine Cheesecake 2013, a lovely light take on a classic pudding. And fried custard with Yorkshire rhubarb jam came with very wicked but incredibly moreish custard doughnuts.
All thoughts of a healthy(ish) lunch abandoned, I tucked in. And rolled back to Kensal Green Station, replete and vowing not to eat for another week.
This would be a great place for Sunday Lunch. It’s fun and any kid (old or young) will love the puns and humorous takes on traditional British and American food. And, it’s good value for money too. Set lunch is available for £12.50 for 3 courses and most of the mains are around £10-£15.
5 Regent Street,
London, NW10 5LG