Central & Co Bar and Brasserie Review
Right opposite Liberty on Great Marlborough Street, Central & Co is a lively place to go and enjoy a drink and perhaps some food. We were invited to pop along and review the venue on a sunny evening a week or so ago. At 5pm it was already busy, full of groups of friends drinking cocktails and sparkling wine. Perhaps not suprising as there are a good range of reasonably priced cocktails and wines by the glass, including a range of sparkling wines.
My champagne berry bellini swizzle was delicious and very pretty, with a few seasonal blackberries as a garnish
My companion picked a Bloody Mary
Nice classic presentation of a drink that shouldn’t actually need any comment if it’s prepared properly!
The bar itself was filling up quickly so we ordered a few ‘small plates’ to sample the food. Olives and pickles while we waited were a nice touch
We decided to share a bowl of cucumber crisps with a dill and sour cream sauce. A really good dish, these were a little like a lighter version of courgette crisps, with a tempura style batter. In fact, although the sauce was lovely, we didn’t really eat very much of it because the crisps were far too morish on their own.
My companion’s battered pollack, chips and peas was another classic dish. Not quite so special, the batter was a little heavy.
My fishcakes were nice and genuinely small plate sized but again, just a little heavy. Perhaps we’d just eaten too many of those cucumber crisps!
I’d also ordered a chicken liver parfait which was served Yorkshire pudding & red onion jam and if I’m honest I wasn’t hungry enough at this stage to want it. But, it also wasn’t the most appetising of the dishes we were served. I’m not sure if it was our exercise in photography or simply that the Yorkshire pudding was intentionally served at room temperature. I would at least have liked the choice of bread or toast with my parfait.
By comparison the side salad was very good and nicely balanced
One challenge for this kind of dining in a relatively busy location is that table space can be at a premium. Most of our food arrived at the same time and on large dinner plates, so although the quantity wasn’t totally overwhelming, it simply didn’t fit on a normal sized table for two people. In the end, we left some of the dishes on the counter, but to some extent that defeated the point of small plate dining.
We finished with a shared lemon-thyme posset. A lovely dessert, but perhaps a little too ‘set’ and firm making it closer to panna-cotta than posset.
This is somewhere to meet friends, relax, have a few drinks and share some food. It’s not formal or gastro dining, but the food is reasonable and the service efficient. And prices are very keen for central London, you could easily sit here for an evening without having to see the Bank Manager the next day. Wine is priced from £4.50 a glass, champagne and cocktails from £7, small plates are mostly around £5-£6 and main courses between £10 and £12. So why not?
Central & Co
22 Great Marlborough St.
London, W1F 7HU