I Eat Bones:
If for no other reason than the name, this place needed a visit. So, I was delighted to be invited to review and dragged my rather inappropriately pescatarian friend The-Hedonist along with me. I did check, there were fish ‘Bones’ too, though perhaps not a great selection.
Bones is on Kingsland Road, near Dalston Kingsland, an area of London that is achingly hip. I don’t go there often – I’d need to buy a new wardrobe and find a way to lose at least 20 years! But, when there’s a restaurant with the name ‘Bones’ it becomes an imperative to make my way East.
Inside the decor is kind of Scandinavian – beyond Ikea. It feels friendly, partly because it’s already crowded and partly because of the lively staff.
There are a reasonable range of vegetarian and pescatarian dishes…but of course I want meat. So, we compromise and order starters we can share.
Pan-fried artichoke hearts with paprika aioli are good but not amazing. But then, I’m used to the altogether more delicate Italian style ones, so perhaps that’s just a matter of personal taste
The beetroot and vodka cured salmon with rye bread and horseradish cream though does really hit the spot. It tastes just as good as it looks and I get little more than a taster.
As it turns out, that is probably just as well. My main course of roasted rack of lamb with herb crust and braised baby gem is a man sized portion – or perhaps one that is intended to share.
It is delicious, the lamb perfectly cooked with a lovely herby crunchy crust and some tender baby gem
Meanwhile, The-Hedonist is getting a little picky about his choices. The sauteed baby squid and potatoes is perhaps a little heavy on potatoes and light on squid. But, it’s only £8 so perhaps that is a reflection of the price.
Roasted aubergine with feta, pomegranate and chilli and a tahini dressing goes down rather better.
And the mixed leaf salad is generous, served with a light tangy dressing.
So, perhaps the ‘dishes to share are really ‘small plates to share’ – certainly price-wise they are pretty much on a par with the starters. It’s a bit confusing – especially as the section marked ‘Bones’ has a mixture of what must be sharing dishes (a whole chicken for instance), marginal plates like the lamb I ordered and options that I’m guessing are meant for one like the pan fried salmon steak.
We move on to dessert and share a rather lovely rich chocolate and hazelnut torte with ice-cream.
All in, I like this place. It’s warm and friendly, the food is good and well priced. We did find the menu a little confusing, but it’s the sort of place I’d come back to again and again if I lived on this side of town. And, of course I’d have a better idea of what to order on a second visit;)
52 Kingsland Road
London E2 8DP