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Visit Arbroath – Smokies and the Declaration of Arbroath

September 15, 2018 by Fiona Maclean 18 Comments

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Last Updated on March 14, 2020 by Fiona Maclean

Visiting Arbroath – A Tale of Scottish Independence and Smoked Fish

Arbroath is a small Scottish fishing town on the coast just north of Dundee and about an hour and a half drive from Edinburgh.  It has two main claims to fame – the Arbroath Smokie and an ancient Abbey where the Declaration of Arbroath was signed – one of the first formal statements of Scottish independence.  Here’s a guide to explain more about why you should visit Arbroath and the two unique features of the town.

Table of Contents

  • The Arbroath Smokie:
  • Arbroath Abbey:
  • The Declaration of Arbroath – a formal statement of Scottish Independence:
  • Other Things to do in Arbroath:
  • Useful Links:

The Arbroath Smokie:

What is a Smokie?  I had a vague idea before I arrived in Arbroath and of course, I had already tasted Arbroath Smokies – though I suspect I’ve got them confused with kippers in the past and turned them down when offered for breakfast  – something I won’t be doing again.  I was lucky enough to be invited along to meet a second-generation Smokie Maker at Arbroath Harbour to learn more…

Arbroath Harbour

The Smokie is a European Union PGI food (protected geographical indication) so it can only be made in a small area, around 8km from the centre of Arbroath.  Smokies are produced from small fresh haddock, sourced from Scotland and then prepared using a traditional method which dates back to the period when Scandinavian invaders settled in Scotland, about 1000 years ago.  The method to produce a Smokie is a hot smoking technique commonly used in Scandinavia at that time and is thought to have been brought over with the Viking invaders to a village called Auchmithie.  Five hundred or so years later, Arbroath started to encourage fishermen to move along the coast and settle in their town by providing land for the community.  Bribed by the offer of their own land, many of the people of Auchmithie did settle in the harbour area of Arbroath.  So, the Arbroath Smokie should perhaps be called the Auchmithie Smokie.

It was not until the late 19th Century when the fishermen and their wives started to sell their Smokies in Dundee that this sweet, tasty way of serving haddock became famous.

Arbroath - Stuarts Fresh Fish

I went to meet Stuart, one of Arbroath’s Smokie producers, to learn how the delicacy is created and what makes it special.  His tiny shop in Arbroath sells freshly smoked Smokies, which you can buy and take away to eat at the harbour, along with a whole selection of fresh and smoked Scottish fish.  He runs a mail order service too, so you can order online if you are now craving a Smokie for supper.Arbroath - Smokies at Stuarts Fresh Fish

He does produce a range of other smoked fish too – from traditional smoked haddock through to hot smoked salmon.  But, it is the Smokie he, like his colleagues in Arbroath, is famous for.Stuart with Fish Arbroath

The fresh haddock used for Smokies are de-headed, gutted and cleaned, then layered into containers of dry salt.  They are paired and tied by the tail using jute string and, once the salting is complete, they are washed and hung to dry on rails.Arbroath Smokie on stick

The smoking pit or barrel is filled with hardwood beech or oak and lit.  Once the initial blaze has subsided, the fish are hung on their rail over the barrel and covered with sacking to reduce the oxygen in the fire and get the flames to die down.Arbroath Smokie in firepit

It takes less than an hour to cook a Smokie and once they are ready, the fish are removed from the barrel, still on the rail, and allowed to cool.Arbroath Smokie Cooling 2

At that point they can be eaten, warm with a chunk of crusty bread.  All you need to do is remove the main bones from each Smokie, something which is done by just opening the fish up and pulling out the backbone.Arbroath Smokies - preparing to eat

That’s it – the process is simple but the end result is quite delicious – a sweet, tender fish with a mild smokiness.  In fact, although the original process was designed to preserve the fish, they don’t keep for long (3 days or so in the fridge) although they can be frozen.

I’m hooked – I know I’ll be looking out for Arbroath Smokies now whenever I’m in Scotland!

Arbroath Abbey:

Apart from feasting on fish, Arbroath has a special place in the history of Scotland, thanks to Arbroath Abbey and the declaration of Arbroath.Arbroath Abbey, Scotland

Arbroath Abbey is a fascinating place to explore – parts of the Abbey are still standing almost as they would have been while other sections are in ruins.  The Abbey was founded in 1178 (although not completed until 1233) by King William the Lion of Scotland as a memorial to Thomas Becket who had been his childhood friend and originally intended it as his own burial place.  It was wealthy, thanks to royal endowments including the income from 24 parishes, a toft of land in every Royal Burgh, lands, fisheries, salt pans, ferries.  The priviledged monks were given permission to set up a burgh, hold a market and build a harbour.Panel detail Arbroath Abbey

The Abbey housed monks from Kelso, part of the Tironesian order.  They were vegetarians although they could eat fish on feast days and two-legged animals like chicken and other birds were also considered acceptable as vegetarian food.  It’s the kind of vegetarianism some of my friends still practise today.

I was completely fascinated by the ‘Round O’ – a large circular window in the chapel which is believed to have been used as a navigation aid for sailors.  Only in Scotland!Arbroath Abbey Round O

Because the construction spanned two architectural design periods, there is a mixture of round (Norman) and pointed arches (early Gothic style).

Arbroath Abbey Arches

What would have been the Abbots House is the best-preserved part of the original monastery.Arbroath Abbots House Building

It now serves as a museum and living history display – for example, there’s a stunning undercroft with space where the kitchen would have been.Arbroath Abbey Undercroft Abbots House

It is obvious just how luxurious the Abbot’s House would have been for this period, with fragments of the original carved wood panelling, stonework and a large number of windows flooding the upper floors with light.

Arbroath Abbey - Abbots HouseThe Closet

The monks remained at the abbey until the Scottish Reformation in 1560. After this time parts of the abbey were dismantled and removed for use in building a new church and local houses.  The ruins are still stunning though and it’s easy to imagine how spectacular the original abbey building must have been.

The Declaration of Arbroath – a formal statement of Scottish Independence:

Perhaps the event that Arbroath Abbey is most famous for is the Declaration of Arbroath and you’ll find a replica and more information on display in the Abbey.

On 6 April 1320, the Scottish Parliament met at Arbroath Abbey to form a response to the Pope over the excommunication of Robert the Bruce.  Although Robert I had defeated Edward II of England at Bannockburn in 1314, the Wars of Independence carried on.  Robert was excommunicated in 1306 after murdering his rival John Comyn on the altar steps of a Franciscan priory and seizing the crown of Scotland.  He was absolved by Bishop Wishart of Glasgow.  However, he went on to capture Berwick from the English in 1318 and it was that which caused the English to lobby Pope John to renew his ex-communication along with all the people of Scotland.  The Declaration of Arbroath was the Scottish response.

A letter in Latin was sent from Bernard of Kilwinning, then Chancellor of Scotland and Abbot of Arbroath, signed by the Earls and Barons of Scotland at the time. This document detailed the services which their “lord and sovereign” Robert the Bruce had rendered to Scotland, and affirmed in eloquent terms the independence of the Scots  Along with a letter from the then King of the Scots, Robert I and one from four Scottish bishops, these petitions, sent to Pope John XXII were intended to confirm Scotland’s independence.

An ‘Apologia’ or formal written defence, it sets out Scotland’s case as an independent sovereign kingdom.  It has been given UNESCO “Memory of the World” status.

Declaration of Arbroath

Its most famous lines are: “It is in truth not for glory, nor riches, nor honours that we are fighting, but for freedom – for that alone, which no honest man gives up but with life itself.”

It’s said to have influenced the American Declaration of Independence as it sets out that the King could be driven out if he didn’t uphold the freedom of the country.  Certainly, there were two Scottish signatories for the Declaration of Independence who may well have been influenced by the Declaration of Arbroath.  But, only history knows whether it was the Declaration of Arbroath or the original Latin text by Sallust (the Conspiracy of Cataline) which was ultimately the inspiration for the American Declaration of Independence

Panel detail Arbroath Abbey

In some ways, it was a closing of the circle that in 1950 inspired four students from Glasgow to drive from Scotland to London where they managed to remove the Stone of Scone from Westminster Abbey.  Along the way they managed to break the stone in two – but once the stone was back in Scotland they hired a stonemason to mend it.  It is said that he placed a brass rod inside the Stone containing a piece of paper and to this day, nobody knows what was written on it.  In April 1951 the police received a tip-off and the Stone was found on the site of the High Altar at Arbroath Abbey. The Stone was returned to Westminster Abbey in February 1952.  In 1996, the Stone was finally restored to the people of Scotland and is to this day installed in Edinburgh Castle.  Of course, there is a strong lobby to move the stone to Scone Palace where it originated.  You can find out more about that in my earlier post.

Other Things to do in Arbroath:

Once you’ve enjoyed your Smokie down by the harbour or on the beach, you can visit the Arbroath Signal Tower Museum.  It’s free to enter and provides a good insight into the history and heritage of the town.  It’s also the shore station for the Bell Rock Lighthouse, which is Britain’s oldest surviving offshore lighthouse.  Designed by Robert Stevenson, it came into service in 1811 and is called the Bell Rock because one of the Abbots of Arbroath set up a bell on the site to warn sailors of the danger.

Finally, if you are in Arbroath during the summer months why not treat your inner child and enjoy a trip on Kerr’s Miniature Railway.  Constructed in 1935 it’s the oldest in Scotland.

Thinking of visiting Arbroath yourself?  Why not pin this post for later so you have an easy to find Arbroath guide.

Arbroath Scotland - Smokies and Arbroath Abbey

 

Useful Links:

For more information about the Tay Country including Angus, Perth, Dundee and Fife visit https://taycountry.uk/

For more about visiting Arbroath Abbey

To order Smokies or arrange to visit Stuart’s Fresh Fish check online at www.arbroathsmokiesdirect.co.uk

 

 

Visit Arbroath  - Smokies and the Declaration of Arbroath

Filed Under: Travel, UK Tagged With: Heritage, Scotland, Scottish Fish, Smoked Fish, Smoked Haddock, smokehouse, Unesco

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. overnight Agra tour says

    October 12, 2018 at 8:50 am

    Thanks for sharing this guide, this is a really beautiful place to visit,

    Reply
  2. Julie says

    September 22, 2018 at 10:32 am

    What an interesting place and wonderful to see people still applying an old trade. My grandmother was from Scotland but I’ve never heard of Smokies before. Thanks for the history lesson.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      September 27, 2018 at 10:37 pm

      My Dad’s side of the family are West Coast Scotland and although I’d heard of Smokies I thought they were just like kippers. They are so much nicer!!!

      Reply
  3. Claire says

    September 19, 2018 at 11:29 pm

    I’ve heard of Arbroath smokies, but I assumed they were like kippers too, obviously a big mistake! I’m surprised it only takes an hour to smoke them, the fish looks beautifully delicate and delicious – yum!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      September 27, 2018 at 10:38 pm

      They are much softer and sweeter than kippers – and because of the way you debone them, you don’t have to fight the fishbones with every mouthful!

      Reply
  4. Punita Malhotra says

    September 19, 2018 at 7:09 am

    I know so little about Scotland, but each time I come across a post on the country, my fascination increases. Interesting details about the smokies here. The Abbey looks quiet and mysterious. One of those places that are free from crowds?

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      September 27, 2018 at 10:39 pm

      not 100% crowd free- but given the importance of Arbroath to Scottish history, remarkably quiet – even on a sunny day!

      Reply
  5. Paige says

    September 18, 2018 at 9:15 pm

    I’ve never even heard of Arbroath, but I do love Scotland, so I could make a trip to visit! Arbroath Abbey would be a must-see for me. I love history and being able to see the Apologia would be so cool! I would likely pass on the fish, though, not being a big seafood fan.

    Reply
  6. sherianne says

    September 18, 2018 at 2:20 pm

    I love to try the local specialties when I travel and this seems extra special since it is geographically protected. I have not tried smoked fish before but it looks great!

    Reply
  7. Rosemary says

    September 18, 2018 at 12:07 am

    What a fascinating read about the traditional smokie. What did it taste like? It looks quite divine. Something I’d love to try. Interesting to read about Scotland’s history and how it became an independent sovereign kingdom. I learned quite a bit from this article. Thank you.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      September 27, 2018 at 10:39 pm

      Sweet, soft and flakey – really delicious!!

      Reply
  8. Hannah says

    September 17, 2018 at 7:40 pm

    Lovely to read about Scotland – my old home! Arbroath is a lovely place, and it’s great to see some coverage of the delights of the Arbroath Smokie! I never quite got the hang of pulling the spine out though 😉

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      September 27, 2018 at 10:40 pm

      That is May from Eat Cook Explore in action in the photo – she did a sterling job!

      Reply
  9. Kavita Favelle says

    September 17, 2018 at 8:43 am

    I love Arbroath Smokies! One of the traditional makers has set up in Islay during the Islay festival last few times we’ve been, which means I’ve had them literally moments after they’ve been lifted off the smoker! So good! Lovely to also read more about the history and other attractions in the area including the Abbey.

    Reply
  10. Fiona Maclean says

    September 17, 2018 at 8:29 am

    You might want to check out my earlier post about another part of the Tay Country – https://www.london-unattached.com/scone-palace-perthshire/ – it would make a good road trip!

    Reply
  11. Kate says

    September 17, 2018 at 2:32 am

    The Arbroath Abbey looks absolutely stunning! I cannot believe how much of it is still standing and in decent condition. Scottish history is one of my absolute favorites and this area sounds rich with it from Thomas Becket to the Declaration of Arbroath. I’ve always wanted to visit Scotland, but was completely unaware of this area. I”ll be saving this for my Scotland trip!

    Reply
  12. Melanie says

    September 15, 2018 at 6:54 pm

    Have only been to Edinburgh but Arbroath looks like a nice little place. I like historical places and it’s funny to read that back in the days chicken were considered vegetarian food? As a veggie I don’t eat fish but I have to admit it looks very yummy. So for anyone who loves fish, this is a must stop!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      September 15, 2018 at 7:30 pm

      The Abbey was really interesting for me – I’ve been doing a lot of Mayflower related travel and I loved the connection with the American Declaration of Independence which tied in with the Mayflower trips too

      Reply

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