Bella Cosa – A beautiful thing happened in Canary Wharf:
Once upon a time, there was a handsome young food blogger on a quest to find the perfect meal. He received an invitation to eat at Bella Cosa, an establishment to the eastern lands where the god Mammon ruled and the buildings reached to the sky. He was concerned that the journey may take many months but after consulting the oracle (Citymapper) it transpired that his destination could be reached by taking the DLR from Bank to South Quays station (approx 10-minute journey) then a 3-minute walk along Marsh Wall. Having established his route the journey itself was easy and there were even parking spaces available…Kentaro Torii is the chef at Bella Cosa, an Italian fine-dining Restaurant in Canary Wharf. He has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants including Bvlgari il Ristorante in Tokyo, El Coq, Marano Vicentino in Italy, Els Casals in Barcelona and Keisuke Matsushima in Nice but still looks disarmingly young. I’ve eaten Kentaro’s food before at Bella Cosa and it is excellent, allowing him to bring his Japanese aesthetic to Italian cuisine with spectacular results, so I’m very happy to have been invited to try the spring menu. If a Japanese chef cooking Italian food in London isn’t a sign of globalisation then the ownership of Bella Cosa by Lyca Mobile, a Sri Lankan telecoms company certainly is!
Life without canapés would be unbearable…black squid ink chips with mascarpone and salmon roe had a deliciously saline crunch, a cannoli of ricotta, walnut and beetroot powder was a sexy savoury twist on the classic dessert and Pane Carasau, a traditional flatbread from Sardinia, came with Bresaola and Asiago cheese for a double protein hit. This was all washed down with a glass or three of a crisp, dry Rosamaro Brut (100% Negromaro) from Altamura in Puglia.
A 5 cheese Ravioli ‘Mezzelune’ (half moon) with saffron sauce, Iberian pork cheek, beetroot purée and black winter truffle was a dish of beautifully balanced but contrasting savoury flavours with a hint of sweetness from the honeysuckle and tropical fruit notes of our white Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore (Verdicchio 100%), Marchetti.
Double cooked San Daniele pork belly, sausage fagottini, root vegetables and apple was almost an autumn dish with the cherry tannins of a glass of Merlot from Friuli, Colutta giving added richness.
Bella Cosa Restaurant, Drewry House, 213 Marsh Wall, London, E14 9FJ
Phone: 0207 132 1212