Japanese inspired Bottomless Brunch at the Devonshire Club:
The London Bottomless Brunch is a wonderful thing when it unfolds as something far closer to a tasting menu than breakfast. And, for me, when it isn’t totally egg-centric, which of course, a Japanese inspired brunch is unlikely to do.
The Devonshire Club is a rather swanky City private members joint, recently opened, with all the trimmings that the City demands including a spectacular Champagne bar and some rather fabulous cocktails.
And, on weekends you, gentle reader, are invited to enjoy Sushi in the City – a Japanese inspired menu with not an eggs benedict in sight, with Ibiza style beats and with plenty of options for bubbles.
It’s a set menu, priced at £50 per person and you can add a two hour ‘bottomless’ option – prosecco for £15 or Champagne for £30.
We started with a sashimi platter with tuna, butterfish and salmon, together with wasabi and soy. Much the best of the fish was the salmon which was beautifully fresh.
I suspect the drama of the dish would be better with a larger group – jasmine infused dry ice was spectacular but did rather overwhelm the sashimi. However, the dish itself was only a taster – there was so much more to come that any larger platter for the two of us would have been excessive.
Raw and pickled vegetables with a truffle and ponzu dip were delicious – a daikon type root, seaweed and more served with a delicately truffled citrussy pool on one side.
Then a small plate of rather good tempura – soft shelled crab, vegetables and prawns, which we also dipped in the truffled ponzu because we liked it.
Next, a selection of sushi including a delicious spicy tuna maki roll, California rolls and nigiri with a range of unusual toppings. We particularly liked the tuna with kizami wasabi (the leaves of the wasabi plant) and the shrimp with miso paste, though in both cases the taste of the seasonings somewhat overwhelmed the fresh fish.
These were really fusion dishes though with the most extreme being the nigiri salmon with barbecue sauce. Japanese inspired, the selection would disappoint the purist but offers an accessible selection for a Western brunch. We enjoyed them a lot though.
Then, the main courses. There are three dishes – a miniature pork belly, chilli and coriander ramen, miso blackened cod which was beautifully flaky inside but just a little dry on the outside. It’s perhaps just that I’m used to the miso glaze being sticky rather than blackened or perhaps that the fish used was cod rather than black cod which is actually not cod at all! The portion size wasn’t large and was served skinless which will have contributed to the dryness.
And, much the best dish of the day for me, the signature duck salad with courgette ribbons, pomegranate seeds, coriander and red chilli.
Finally a black sesame mochi ball – the perfect miniature dessert after Sushi in the City before we went for a tour around the club
This is a brunch of Champions. There’s more food than we could handle – and for the most part it is healthy and fresh.
Served in the glamorous restaurant at the Devonshire Club, it’s somewhere to impress a date or go with a crowd of friends for a special treat. I love the concept of a Sushi brunch and will be curious to see if the idea catches on. Why not try it and see what you think for yourself?
Sushi in the City is closed on the 23rd December for Christmas and will re-open on the 30th December as normal.
Price: £50 + £15 for Prosecco or £30 for Champagne.
The Devonshire Club
5 Devonshire Square
London EC2M 4YD
firstname.lastname@example.org / 020 3750 4545