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You are here: Home / Travel / Europe / Portugal / Central Portugal – Bird Watching, Archaeology and More

Central Portugal – Bird Watching, Archaeology and More

May 12, 2013 by Fiona Maclean 13 Comments

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Last Updated on July 17, 2013 by Fiona Maclean

A Passion for Portugal

This is the first of a series of posts about my recent short trip to Central Portugal.  I’m still reflecting and putting together the photos and stories from our travels around this fascinating and unspoilt area.  But, I’m excited and want to share.  So this is just a quick photo montage and a little about our itinerary to give you a taste for the passion that made this trip so very special.

Portugal Serra Da Estrela

I’m not entirely sure how I ended up on a trip where the focus was walking, cycling and bird watching.  As anyone who has read my articles before will realise, I am more often found in the restaurant than in the field.  But, I’m very glad I ended up where I did.  I’ve seen vultures and eagles.  I’ve met some wonderful people, a very friendly goat  and a deer who thinks the goat is his mother.  And I’ve walked through the sort of meadows of flowers that just don’t exist in this country any more.

Portugal Hotel Bedroom

Our first stop was at Casa dos Pocas –  Villa Torpim.  This ten roomed hotel has a hot tub, sauna and small but stunning outdoor pool with a hydrotherapy  shower.  It was the first of many surprises, a fabulous boutique hotel in a tiny, quiet hamlet.  Half of our group were staying there for the night while the others went on to stay at  Casa da Cisterna in Castelo Rodrigo, where we spent the evening enjoying the hospitality of owner Ana Berliner.

dinner at ana's

After a traditional supper of Portuguese food, we went off to the Foz Coa Archaeological Park to see the engravings by night, guided by Ana, whose passion for the area as a whole and for these very special paleolithic engravings was infectious.

portugal ana and Rock Carvings

Then back to our hotels for bed, sleep and a hearty breakfast.

Portugal Eduardo with Damp butterfly

It was raining when we woke the next day and the idea of a trip to Faia Brava Nature Reserve the next day  to walk and see some of the birds was not top of my personal agenda.  In fact the hot tub, hamman and sauna in the hotel we’d been staying in really did seem like a better option.  But as we arrived, the weather cleared and once again the passion and enthusiasm of the people working in the reserve took over.   We were guided by two of the scientists who work at the reserve, and saw a whole variety of birds of prey in flight and nesting as well as learning more about how the reserve operates.

river teja

On to Herdade da Poupa for a trip by open jeep across the 4000 hectare park to learn a little about the wildlife in the park, a reception by the river Tejo and then dinner back at the hotel.

Portugal Monsanto

Breakfast outside, watching the house martins building their nests before we set off to Monsanto, a medieval village built into the boulders of the mountain top.

Portugal shepherd

What was described on the itinerary as a ‘light’ lunch at Petiscos and Granitos Restaurant but which seemed to involve several Portuguese dishes designed to fuel a mountain lifestyle  before the more adventurous of the group set off on mountain bikes down the mountain to Idanha a Velha, while some of us took advantage of a more leisurely walk to see the countryside and people.

portugal penhas douradas

At Serra da Estrela natural park the minibus heaved its way up to the top of the highest mountain in Portugal, to Casa das Penhas Douradas where we met owner João Tomás.  He told us how he’d left his previous life as a lawyer in Lisbon to restore and develop the hotel and spa.  And then, looking for another challenge, how he and his wife had taken over a near to bankrupt local factory making a traditional Portuguese felted woollen fabric called burel.  We dined in style on Modern Portuguese cuisine before settling in for a well deserved rest.

Then, on our final morning, after breakfast, more walking or mountain biking, learning about the history and geology of the area.

Portugal Serra Da Estrela 2

Lunch looking out over the valley and then a drive back to the airport.

Somehow, we seemed to have managed to pack a seven day itinerary into three.  And, none of us could quite believe that we’d only arrived on Wednesday evening and were leaving on Saturday.  There’s so much to write about, so much passion to share, I do hope that I can give you a taste for this little known part of Portugal.

Many thanks to all our hosts and particularly to Tourismo de Centro de Portugal and TAP for their hospitality.

Filed Under: Portugal, Travel Tagged With: Monsanto, Portugal

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Pamela Morse says

    May 15, 2013 at 3:03 pm

    Fiona, I am impressed with your photography. You are so lucky to be able to go Euro in a short trip. This one looks like a blast.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 15, 2013 at 6:32 pm

      this one was unexpectedly fascinating! Egyptian vultures no less!!!

      Reply
  2. Jess @UsedYorkCity says

    May 14, 2013 at 8:00 pm

    Ohhh this sounds just delightful! Portugal is a place I’ve recently become very interested in visiting (mostly do to my interest in the wines, I admit!), but your photos make it even more of a draw! Looking forward to reading more!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 15, 2013 at 8:52 pm

      I kinda like the wines too;)

      Reply
  3. Isabel Foodie (@familyfoodie) says

    May 13, 2013 at 1:03 pm

    I was born in Portugal and have enjoyed this post tremendously. What beautiful pictures and memories.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 13, 2013 at 1:12 pm

      I had a wonderful time Isabel. I have been to Portugal once before (Lisbon, Evora and Estramoz), but had forgotten what a lovely and unspoilt place it is!

      Reply
  4. Tom Shooter says

    May 13, 2013 at 1:01 pm

    A lovely piece Fiona, I look forward to the rest and will get some photos up here soon.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 13, 2013 at 1:13 pm

      Thanks Tom, I hope you enjoyed the trip as much as me!

      Reply
  5. Stevie Wilson says

    May 12, 2013 at 11:06 pm

    another place to put on the bucket list. Thanks for sharing Fiona.. this is FABULOUS

    Reply
  6. Galina V says

    May 12, 2013 at 10:35 pm

    What an amazing trip, Fiona. Marvellous photos too.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 13, 2013 at 7:28 am

      I feel very lucky:)

      Reply
  7. Janice says

    May 12, 2013 at 9:32 pm

    That sounds fantastic, Fiona. Lovely photographs too.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 12, 2013 at 9:39 pm

      it was wonderful. I will post more on each of the events, because each has their own story, but I wanted to share!

      Reply

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