Last Updated on October 21, 2023
An idyllic weekend in Tenby, Pembrokeshire with Coastal Cottages, Pembrokeshire
A visit to Pembrokeshire is worth the trip any season and in any year but 2018 is Wales’ Year of the Sea, when it is celebrating its outstanding coastal scenery and inviting visitors to special events and attractions, so now is a really good time to jump in the car or onto the train and head west from London.
‘‘The sea washes away all the ills of men”. Euripides had the wine-dark Mediterranean in mind when he wrote these words all those centuries ago but in 1810 they were Sir William Paxton’s inspiration for his new bathhouse in Tenby, built to attract the wealthy and fashionable of the Regency period. So he put these words in Greek top, front and centre on his building and people have been coming in droves ever since – not just the upper crust but all the slices and breadcrumbs of British society – to play on the beaches, paddle in the sea and promenade along the streets.
With its stunning cliff-top setting, sweeping sandy bays on either side, Tenby is very much the holiday heart of Pembrokeshire, but in a county where the sea is never more than 14 miles away, its coast is another important draw. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is the only one in the UK established because of the wild beauty of its coastline.
The county has a wide range of accommodation to choose from but if you are looking for a special home from home, then Coastal Cottages of Pembrokeshire are the go-to people. They have more than 550 holiday cottages to choose between, from small, quaint and quirky to stylish, grand and modern, and for all budgets.
Ours, for a weekend break, was in Penally, a quiet hillside village just south of Tenby and an ideal place for exploring the area. Up a green lane, past an ancient well and a ruined medieval chapel, the cottage was comfortably and tastefully furnished, had a modern well-equipped kitchen, and was just right for a couple (with or without a dog – many of the properties are pet-friendly).
A weekend isn’t long enough to do justice to all Tenby and Pembrokeshire have to offer but we gave it our best shot. A good starting point for a town tour is Castle Hill where the excellent little Tenby Museum and Art Gallery displays all you need to know about the area’s history while the gallery features works by local boy Augustus John and his daughter Gwen.
From the hill, look out to the nearby islands of St Catherine’s and Caldey and across the bay to the Gower Peninsular. The sweeping golden beaches below are overlooked by tall, cliff-top Victorian houses, painted in an eye-catching array of pretty pastels.
When the tide is out, a visit to the fort on St Catherine’s Island is an easy excursion. Built in the mid-19th century, it became a fabulous private home before falling into disuse. It’s now an atmospheric and quirky function venue – one of its upcoming events is a Titanic-themed pop-up cinema night.
From Castle Beach, boat trips cross to the monastery island of Caldey. It has been a home for centuries to various orders of monks and is currently owned by the Cistercians, living in the imposing and beautiful Abbey. You probably won’t see the monks but you will love the peace of the place, ancient monastic buildings like the Old Priory and the cliff-top walks – you might see an Atlantic Grey seal if you’re lucky.
Back within Tenby’s medieval walls and streets you drop the bucket and spade and pick up a knife and fork in one of many excellent eating places. Our favourite was the atmospheric Plantagenet Restaurant, located in Tenby’s oldest house, where the stonework is as interesting as the food is excellent (Modern British – our main course of sea-bass on a bed of beetroot risotto and samphire was superb).
For those preferring to use finger and thumb, no trip to Tenby would be complete without some good fish and chips, and the town has award-winning D. Fecci & Sons. Apart from the standard menu, for those who need it they offer wheat-free fish, coated in a batter of ground rice and potato. (The family also owns an ice-cream parlour – and a laundrette whose motto really should be ‘‘We wash away all the spills of men….”).
Coastal Cottages’ concierge service can advise on and book a local restaurant for you or if you prefer to eat in your cottage but don’t want to cook, chilled home-made meals can delivered from their Dine at Home Menu; they can even arrange for your own private chef to whip up a two or three-course meal of your choice. To get your stay off to a great start, they can arrange for one of a range of food hampers to await your arrival.
And if you want more of your holiday to come to your cottage, the concierge service also offers a range of massage, beauty and yoga therapies. Their website lists a whole raft of other activities (except rafting…) to suit everyone, from cycling to stargazing, to make your stay in Pembrokeshire an unforgettable one.
Before heading back to London we drove along the coastal road to Freshwater West beach, popular with surfers and film crews (part of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows was filmed there). The sky was big, the beach gorgeous and the crab roll from Café Mor (a beach shack serving up delicious local sea and street food) the best we’d ever tasted.
We left for London sorry to leave so soon with so much left to see and do, (and with many of our ills not quite washed away yet), but very much looking forward to coming back again; and probably again after that.
If you prefer hotel rather than self-catering accommodation in Pembrokeshire, please check our review of Wolfscastle Country Hotel
Thinking of visiting Pembrokeshire yourself? Why not pin this post for later
Jenny was a guest of Coastal Cottages of Pembrokeshire.
Pembrokeshire is one of my favorite city in wold for me, because its a peaceful place to live in. i visite this city back in 20014 with my girlfriend, it was a great experience really
Great to see that you enjoyed your time in Pembrokeshire. It truly is a great place for a getaway.
Wonderful writing, Pembrokeshire is the best place for spending our vacation, I want to explore this wonderful place on my next trip and I do not miss to explore the St Catherine’s Island and must taste the local and seafood of this place. Thanks.
Nice blog clean beach nice cottages fresh air good weather beautiful pictures
I feel Freedom and Independence just after reading your post
Pembrokeshire seems perfect for a weekend trip! The Welsh coastline is absolutely stunning, I wonder how warm is there now in these days. Even with the wind, it must be pretty warm already!
This is my kind of weekend getaway. Just staying in a cute cottage and checking out some sights nearby. I’d love to visit St Catherine’s Island too!
It is amazing how close Pembrokeshire is to the St Catherine’s island! You can even walk to the fort when the tide is out! Fish and chip is a great treat after a day of sightseeing!
Pembrokeshire looks like such a relaxing place to stay! I’d love to take a walk on the beach when the tide goes out or explore some of the buildings.
Oh, how beautiful. It’s my dream to spend some time in a coastal cottage in a quaint little town like this. It just looks lovely.
Looks like a great way to escape the city! I always hear about how beautiful the UK coastline is and this really proves it – I love the architecture as well. It seems like a perfect little get away!
We love Tenby, it’s one of our favourite seaside towns, we try and get there at least a couple of times a year. The wide sandy beaches are great for exploring and the harbour is really pretty. We have also eaten in the Plantagenet restaurant a few times and love the surroundings. Glad you enjoyed it.
What a fantastic weekend getaway, I love going to beachy places even if you can’t get into the water. The old town and quaint buildings are attractive and fun to explore from what I can see. Thanks for sharing the highlights Fiona.
Tenby seems incredible. Love your tip about visiting the Tenby Museum and Art Gallery first. We too like to make our first stop in any new city a history museum of some sort to learn how the town/city go its start. The titanic popup near the fort would be a must-do for us because we love learning about Titanic history, much like many people. Love the fun fact about Harry Potter filming nearby too! Sounds like a great place to visit.