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You are here: Home / Travel / Europe / Croatia / Colourful Croatia – Trogir, Dalmatia

Colourful Croatia – Trogir, Dalmatia

July 22, 2013 by Fiona Maclean 14 Comments

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Last Updated on August 26, 2017 by Fiona Maclean

Lore, Legend and History in Trogir, Dalmatia:

I’d been told that the historic island towns of Croatia were stunningly beautiful.  And I was looking forward to visiting Trogir, Dalmatia, joined to mainland Croatia by two foot bridges.  It’s a UNESCO heritage site and curiously has acted as a location ‘double’ for both Venice and Provence in recent films.  But I was about to learn more and see for myself.

Trogir Dalmatian Coast, Croatia

“Did you know that nobility used to believe the taller your pillars, the richer you were?”

asked my guide Dino Ivancic (who must have been a good bit over six foot tall) – Well, no I didn’t…

Dalmatia Trogir - High Pillar

Nor was I aware that the edges of church walls at hip level were often rounded to stop people using them as a convenient latrine.  That is, until I met Dino who showed me around the charming island town of Trogir on the Dalmatian coast.

Croatia Trogir Square

It was a colourful tour of Trogir which involved avoiding the cruise ship tours and trying to take in as much as possible of this fascinating walled island just off the Dalmatian coast.  The town,  is a beautifully preserved medieval labyrinth of buildings surrounded by 15th Century city walls.

Trogir - Venetian Lion

The pretty medieval streets in themselves are worthy of a gentle stroll.  Balconies and shuttered windows, cobbles and churches.  You might even happen across one of the few remaining Venetian winged lion (as in Pag, they were all removed during Mussolini’s time in power).

Court entrance, Trogir, Croatia

But  it isn’t until you reach the main square that the full impact of the town and its stunning architecture becomes evident.  Dino pointed out two houses.  The first he said, was built by a local peasant who had married into nobility, for himself, to be close to God.  The second, was built for his son. The square is also home to the old court house, complete with shackles, a seat of judgement and a rather fine relief sculpture – the central portion blanked out where once there was another of those Venetian winged lions.

Trogir Cathedral - Dalmatian Coast, Croatia

Directly opposite is the Cathedral, built on the foundations of an early-Christian cathedral destroyed in the 12th century. The present building was begun in 1213 and finished during the 17th century. Like it’s predecessor it is dedicated to St. Lawrence  but is also known as St John’s Cathedral  after bishop John, who died in 1111 during Hungarian rule of Dalmatia.  Legend tells that the Bishop’s sarcophagus was dragged out of the church to the shore, where they cut off his hand bearing the episcopal ring.  But, during the voyage there was a massive storm and most of the fleet sank.  The remaining boats limped on to Venice, but brought with them the plague, which decimated the city.  And, the Bishop’s arm reportedly flew back to Trogir and is still incarcerated in the Cathedral.

Croatia Trogir Cathedral altar detail

I thought that might explain the rather macabre altar, but that is actually dedicated to the victims of the Great Plague that happened some 2 centuries later.

Croatia Trogir Cathedral Entrance - Radovan

The Cathedral is perhaps best known for the work of Master Radovan – and especially for the stunning entrance portal.  It’s an incredibly detailed and creative work – take for example the pair of lions guarding Adam and Eve, one on either side of the door.  The male lion is depicted killing a serpent, while the female lion is protecting her cubs.

male and female lions - radovan - trogir croatia

Dino also pointed out the bell tower, notable for its fine detail and because, started at the end of the fourteenth century, construction took four centuries, so each level belongs to a different architectural period, starting with Romanesque at the base, then Gothic, Floral Gothic and Renaissance, with a Mannerist roof and with Renaissance sculptures on the corners.

Sarcophogus Trogir Cathedral Croatia

We stopped for lunch – a simple fish soup and fresh sea bass for me, meat for my energetic guide who also managed to consume a large plate of pancakes swimming in chocolate sauce, before taking a look at the town walls again.  Dino pointed out the loggia.  During Venetian rule, the gates into the town were locked at 9pm – and anyone who arrived after that time would spend the night sleeping in the loggia.  Which can’t have been fun (it’s really not that big and must have been the equivalent of a London night bus!)

Croatia - Small Lodge - Trogir

And then on to Split.

With many thanks to Dino for an inspiring and memorable trip around Trogir that was all too short.

For more information on what to see and do in Croatia, please visit www.croatia.hr.

One-way flights from Split to London Gatwick cost from £47 with easyJet. For more information or to book, please visit www.easyjet.com

Thinking of visting Croatia?  Why not pin this post for later!

Trogir Croatia - Short Tour

Filed Under: Croatia, Travel Tagged With: Croatia, Dalmatia, Trogir

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Carolann says

    January 4, 2016 at 6:23 am

    What an amazing visit! We’ve yet to visit Croatia but we just keep seeing more and more of the beauty and history that is there waiting! Hopefully there’ll be cheaper flights from Canada to Europe one day so we can more easily explore!

    Reply
  2. Laura says

    January 4, 2016 at 12:03 am

    I’ve been to a number of places in Croatia, though not Trogir, and I’ve loved them all. What a beautiful place.

    Reply
  3. Megan says

    January 3, 2016 at 8:57 pm

    I didn’t know anything about this area. The more I read about Croatia the more I want to go. I’m curious though if traveling there has been impacted by the refugee crisis?

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      January 3, 2016 at 9:04 pm

      I was in Zadar last summer and there was no sign there – on the Dalmatian coast, not far from Trogir. Later I went sailing round some of the Greek islands and Turkish coast and was similarly apprehensive, but again saw nothing. So far as I could tell the refugee crisis is confined to very specific areas of the med – the greek islands closest to Turkey, then to the inland routes that the refugees take to reach Germany, France etc.

      Reply
  4. tammyonthemove says

    January 3, 2016 at 10:26 am

    Croatia has been on my travel list for a long time, but despite being European I haven’t made it there yet. This place looks really stunning though. I love the architectural style of the building you posted.

    Reply
  5. Amélie says

    January 3, 2016 at 1:23 am

    This looks wonderful! I was just in Croatia briefly last month and I need to return in 2016!

    Reply
  6. Elaine J. Masters says

    January 2, 2016 at 9:25 pm

    Wonderful details about the architecture and history of Trogir. I have Croatian relatives that live near Dubrovnik but I don’t see how I’ll visit until 2017. Such a big world to explore!

    Reply
  7. Jon Dunn says

    October 25, 2013 at 12:32 pm

    Just searched twitter for links to Trogir and found this excellent article and stunning photos.
    Am planning to visit Zadar, Šibenik (and Krka park) and Trogir next spring – this has vindicated my (already made) decision to go to the city.
    Thank you.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      October 25, 2013 at 12:44 pm

      I hope you have a great time! I rather liked Pag too, but missed out on Zadar. Another time perhaps!

      Reply
  8. Rebecca says

    July 26, 2013 at 5:44 am

    You visit the best places – the architecture and scenery are beautiful. Croatia is such a natural beauty to see.

    Reply
  9. Stevie Wilson says

    July 25, 2013 at 10:59 pm

    incredibly gorgeous scenery.. and such a lovely place. there are so many towns up and down the Dalmatian coast to see.

    Reply
  10. Stacy says

    July 24, 2013 at 7:33 am

    Another place to put on my list, Fiona! Gorgeous photos and I am drooling over the mere thought of your fish soup and sea bass. I have always been envious of the great charter flight deals out of the UK but it looks like EasyJet is beating them all now. Off to research how to get there cheaply from Dubai!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      July 24, 2013 at 4:12 pm

      Isn’t it beautiful!!!

      Reply
      • Stacy says

        July 24, 2013 at 5:07 pm

        Fabulous! I am a sucker for old cathedrals and cobblestone streets.

        Reply

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