Scaling the Heights in Park Lane – Galvin at Windows.
Here at London-Unattached, we love the Galvin Brothers’ restaurants and this June to coincide with the 2019 London Pride celebrations they came up with something rather special. Honouring the 50-year mark since the modern LGBT + rights movement were born, this year’s Pride is being proudly supported by Galvin at Windows with two new limited-edition dishes integrated into the monthly-changing Menu Prestige. It’s 30 years since I was the musical director at Pride so reviewing the Galvin at Windows Menu Prestige with these additions is a brilliant way to bring back those memories. Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows is one of London’s most iconic restaurant spaces, perched on the 28th floor on the top of the London Hilton on Park Lane with stunning views across the city. Head Chef, Joo Won combines elements from French, British and Korean flavours bringing a truly global feel to the menu. The interior has dark wood fittings, avocado-coloured leather chairs and dusky gold blinds all acting as a frame for the most extraordinary 360-degree London panorama. The space is perfect for a celebration so while we checked out the menu it seemed like a great idea to sample the plum and spice notes of a glass of Bollinger Rose fizz. For the amuse-bouche, a subtle mackerel cream with apple and mint was lifted by a hint of horseradish. Next up we enjoyed a refined Asian-influenced starter of raw kingfish, cucumber and kohlrabi in a sweet chilli soy dressing. Our sommelier Rudina Aropi had compiled a wonderful list of matching wines, in this instance a mineral and citrus dry Riesling, Felton Road, New Zealand 2017. The first of the special Pride dishes was a plate of meaty chunks of cured salmon counterpointed by salty spikes of caviar, horseradish cream, and the sweet crunch of rainbow pickled vegetables & flowers. From the Jura, the 100% Savagnin grape Domaine du Pélicane, Arbois, 2015 had a good level of acidity balanced by a floral creaminess. The menu had plenty of options that would work for vegetarians. amongst them the delicate but stunningly presented vegetable dumpling ‘Mandu’ trufﬂe that came in a perfumed broth of tofu, shiitake & kombu broth. It was paired with a classic red Bordeaux – Chateau de Pez, Saint-Estèphe, 2012 – with robust tannins and flavours of stewed red fruit. The star of the show was a juicy lobster tail with a perfectly grilled scallop and a crisp fillet of sea bream bathed in a creamy but intensely flavoured bisque and with a garlicky rouille (£8 supplement). My accompanying glass of White Rioja, Capellania, Marques de Murieta, 2014 was made from the Viura grape and had a lemony complexity and good structure.
Our first dessert was a delicious classic chocolate mousse served with raspberries, blackberries and a strawberry sorbet matched with a 100% Grenache Maury, Laforge, 2016 with powerful blackberry notes. The second Pride dish took its influence from the FAB ice lolly (remember those!). A chocolate and hazelnut lolly on a bed of beurre noisette crumbles, served with a dulche ganache and vanilla cream was a fun sweet treat that allowed me to reflect on my multiple sexual identities. Or one of those…or maybe both…It came with a wonderfully honeyed glass of Hungarian Tokay, Classic Winery, 2011. After a great dinner, we moved through to the bar to enjoy the evening views over a super-smooth glass of Oltre il Vallo grappa, aged in single malt barrels. I loved the Galvin at Windows experience. Service under the tutelage of General Manager Fred Sirieix of TV’s First Dates fame was seamless, the food was both creative and technically excellent, the wine matching as were intriguing and with the views, it’s the perfect place for a romantic date, a special occasion, a business outing or just a treat!
The Menu Prestige is available as 3 courses at £82 per person. Available for lunch Monday to Friday only from 12 pm until 2.30 pm as well as for dinner Monday to Wednesday 5.30pm until 10 pm, Thursday to Saturday 5.30pm until 10.30 pm.
Galvin at Windows,
22 Park Lane, Mayfair,
London W1K 1BE
For Galvin at Windows, call +44 (0)20 7208 4021 or email email@example.com
We are big fans of the Galvin Brothers. Check out our reviews of some of their other offerings: How about Galvin Hop – the cheeky casual dining venue in Spitalfields. We’ve tried the weekend brunch there too. Or, Galvin at the Athenaeum right on Picadilly. We believe that the most romantic of City destinations is Galvin la Chapelle. And, we loved trying the brunch at Galvin at Windows too.