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You are here: Home / Travel / Genoa – the strangest contrasts

Genoa – the strangest contrasts

May 14, 2016 by Fiona Maclean 18 Comments

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Last Updated on May 26, 2016

Genoa and Beyond – Palazzos and the Perfect Coast in Liguria:

It is a place that ‘grows upon you’ every day. There seems to be always something to find out in it. There are the most extraordinary alleys and by-ways to walk about in. You can lose your way (what a comfort that is, when you are idle!) twenty times a day, if you like; and turn up again, under the most unexpected and surprising difficulties. It abounds in the strangest contrasts; things that are picturesque, ugly, mean, magnificent, delightful, and offensive, break upon the view at every turn.

Charles Dickens – Pictures from Italy

Genoa Palazzo Reale

Short trips have the advantage of slotting easily into a hectic schedule. They offer a chance to get a glimpse of a new place or refresh a memory of an old favourite.  But, the initial invitation to the World Pesto Championships in Genoa was for just 2 days and, having never visited that part of Italy before, I wanted just a little more.  The solution was to go a day early, giving me a chance to see a little of Genoa and to visit Cinque Terre, five small fishing villages, famous for their beauty, an hour or so from the city.  Of course, what I’d failed to take into account was my luggage, which combined with  the cobbled alleys and inclines of Genoa made the idea of wandering the streets a little impractical.

Carriage - Genoa

After about 20 minutes of wandering, I took a look in one of the majestic buildings that line the street running down from the main station.  There was an old coach in the pretty courtyard and a statue.  Easily sold by the helpful lady at reception who offered to store my bag, I went into Palazzo Reale.  Upstairs at the start of the tour I sat down to watch a short film about the history of the palace.  I don’t speak Italian so I hadn’t actually realised that I’d wandered into the nearest thing in Genoa to Buckingham Palace (Reale means Royal – as I now know).  And, I watched entranced, learning about the history of the building which started as a wealthy merchant’s family home before being taken over by the Savoy family in 1823.  Walking round was truly astonishing, despite the fact that throughout its history, both when the building changed family ownership and when the building was taken over by Royalty, many of the works of art were moved to Milan.  The most stunning room for me, the Hall of Mirrors, was somewhere I lingered.  And, the wealth of art still there warranted a much longer visit than I had time for.

Detail from Throne Rome

The train from Genoa to Cinque Terra is frequent and efficient.  I’d deliberately chosen a service that had no changes and I’d paid for a first class seat (a small supplement by comparison to the UK equivalent).  I arrived in Monterosso mid-afternoon, in blazing sunshine.  It was, of course, a complete contrast.  I walked along the sea front into the old town, then back again to the station.

Cinque Terre

A brief train journey will take you to any of the other Cinque Terra villages.  I really only had time to visit one more and decided to alight in Vernazza and look for somewhere to eat.  It was clear from my all too brief stay that much the best way to explore the villages is on foot.  And for that you need a week or more to walk in the hills above the villages and make your way along the coast.

Cinque Terre

 It must be well worth the time and effort though, even in a few hours I saw some truly spectactular views. I climbed to the tower in Vernazza, where you can look out across the rest of the village and marvel at the church built into the cliff.

Cinque Terre Village 2

As a preview to the World Pesto Championships I dined that evening on anchovies followed by  trofie with beans and pesto, two of Liguria’s best-known dishes.  And, watched the sun set over the harbour.  Cliched – yes – but none the worse for that.

Trofie and Pesto

It was a blissful and refreshing escape to the country and while I can’t claim it was quiet (Cinque Terre was busy with tourists even in April), it wasn’t impossibly busy and was definitely worth the train journey.

ceiling detail pasta shop

Back in Genoa the next day, we set off on a city tour to learn more about this city of contrasts.  It is somewhere you’ll find artisan pasta being made in the entrance of an old Palazzo.  Look up and you’ll see the original frescos on the ceiling at Pasta Fresca Fabio.

Artisan Pasta

 But, the real magic is in the machinery, invented by the current owner’s Father, to make some of the traditional Ligurian pasta shapes; Pansotti, Trenette and Corzetti.  Trofie though, the only local pasta made without egg, is hand rolled into those curious worm-like bits of dough, designed to hold the perfect amount of pesto.

Artisan pasta 2

We visited Francesca Olcese – an artisanal restorer with a passion for her work.  She explained how she’d known all her life what she wanted to do – and it was obvious from the photos and pieces in her workshop how committed she was.

Restorer

But, just a few hours walking around Genoa makes it obvious this is the perfect playground for someone with an enthusiasm for reviving stunningly crafted works of art.

genoa - courtyard

The city is full of Palazzos, the streets ornate with statues and the everyday is built into amazing buildings from the past.

Genoa - Apartments

And then there’s the food – a city with the ability to make simple ingredients taste wonderful.  Of course there’s pesto.  My visit is specifically to attend the World Pesto Championships.  But, there’s more – tripe (for those who like it), rabbit and goat and a slow cooked sausage called Tucco.

Tripe

 101 different ways of presenting anchovies and Salsa di noci, made with walnuts, pine nuts, garlic, butter, and cream.  I dine like a queen on a bowlful of trofie with saffron and sausage and have to try extremely hard to avoid eating the local foccacia, made with lard rather than olive oil and often topped with onions.

Foccacia with onion

There’s a local cake called farinata made with chickpea flour and a tiny sweet olives variety, taggiasca.  Traditional Ligurian food is substantial and hearty.  Sustenance for sailors;  food from a region where farming is hard because of the mountainous terrain, where despite the extensive coastline there’s little fishing and where, in the fifteenth century fresh vegetables were more expensive than meat.

arancini genoa

I suspect there’s a lot more to see and a lot more to discover.  A three-day introduction to Genoa and Liguria is just a taste, a promise of more that I now need to explore for myself.  So, I’m planning my next trip to this fascinating hidden gem in Italy.

Why not pin this for later…

Genoa and Cinque Terre

I was a guest of the Ligurian Tourist Board

For further information on Liguria please visit www.turismoinliguria.it
For further information on the Pesto Championships please visit www.pestochampionship.it The next championships will take place in 2018.
Flights
Return flights from London Gatwick to Genoa start from £95 with British Airways. (0844 493 0787)
Accommodation
One night B&B in a classic double room at President Genoa starts from £70 for two people. (00800 0022 0011)

Filed Under: Italy, Travel Tagged With: Artisan Food

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Judith Allen says

    February 10, 2019 at 9:38 pm

    What a beautiful place, fascinating too. Just as well dinner is ready, this has made me hungry.

    Reply
  2. Vanessa Chiasson says

    May 24, 2016 at 2:14 pm

    That pasta and that pesto! Oh my goodness. I was in this area a million years ago, on my first backpacking trip through Europe, and unfortunately all accommodations were booked up in Cinque Terre so I went to Finale Ligure – not far away- for two days. It was a great destination that gave me a wee taste for Italy and I can’t wait to go back.

    Reply
  3. Vicky and Buddy says

    May 23, 2016 at 3:48 pm

    A friend of mine traveled around Cinque Terra and he absolutely loved it. It seems very fairy tale like and I’d love to experience the food and culture. Loved your photos btw!

    Reply
  4. Carmen's Luxury Travel says

    May 23, 2016 at 5:43 am

    Definitely adding Genoa to my list! Great post, thanks for sharing 🙂

    Reply
  5. Arzo Travels says

    May 22, 2016 at 8:02 pm

    Beautiful pictures of gorgeous Italy. I would love to visit Cinque Terre and hope to make it this year. Wondering how much more you had to pay for first class 🙂

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 23, 2016 at 2:25 pm

      about £5 – nothing significant. I think it is very much dependent on time you travel though

      Reply
  6. Laura Lynch says

    May 22, 2016 at 7:19 pm

    World Pesto Championships in Italy? What?! I definitely have to check that out. What a great reason to go spend a long weekend exploring that part of Italy. It’s so beautiful there.

    Reply
  7. Erika says

    May 22, 2016 at 5:16 pm

    Genoa wasn’t a place I considered visiting until my parents went last year and raved about it. I’d love to go and see the pasta making. Being Italian, I’ve always made my own pasta growing up, but I think it would be really neat to see how the machine works that is able to produce such large quantities of differently-shaped noodles. I’m glad you got to see Vernazza, even if your stay was brief. It is definitely one of the Cinque Terre’s most picturesque villages!

    Reply
  8. Vicki Louise says

    May 22, 2016 at 1:18 pm

    The whole place looks like a work of art! And love the insight into the pasta making – the machinery is incredible!

    Reply
  9. LeAnna says

    May 22, 2016 at 11:29 am

    You had me at “World Pesto Championship!!!” OMG that sounds awesome!!! We are actually heading to Cinque Terra in a few months and, I agree, I can’t wait to hike from town to town and explore. It’s obviously beautiful, but I also hear the food in the towns are fantastic!!

    Reply
  10. Dana says

    May 22, 2016 at 10:40 am

    We are talking about taking a trip to Genoa later this year. We loved Cinque Terre and would love to visit the area again and check out the homemade pasta as well.

    Reply
  11. Kerri says

    May 22, 2016 at 10:12 am

    Only ever driven through Genoa, on the way to the Cinque Terre and also Rome on a separate trip. How beautiful is the Cinque Terre?! I loved looking at the machine that was used to make the pasta. As someone who makes their own pasta, this was cool.

    Reply
  12. Mal IntotheCity says

    May 20, 2016 at 10:58 pm

    It’s such a lovely place! Definitely adding it to my bucket list!

    Mal x

    Reply
  13. Rachel In Real Life says

    May 19, 2016 at 10:10 pm

    I have never been to Italy but this area is going to the top of my wish list. With beautiful food and stunning scenery what more could you want?

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 19, 2016 at 10:26 pm

      Cinque Terre is a haven for walkers – really beautiful. And, Genoa itself had so much more than I imagined

      Reply
  14. Kris says

    May 16, 2016 at 4:35 pm

    wow love your photos, they’re making me really nostalgic about italy 🙂

    Reply
  15. Stevie Wilson says

    May 16, 2016 at 3:34 am

    Loving your trip. You must have had the best time! I love the food. I love the place.. and your photos!
    You go to the most interesting places!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 17, 2016 at 8:02 am

      I was astonished by Genoa…it’s not really somewhere I’d have considered before the trip. And, Cinque Terre is just stunning

      Reply

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