A Review of Sorts – Green Man and French Horn:
Lack of photographic evidence from my restaurant visits can be a result of my appalling skills with the camera, of poor light or, as in this case, simply because I am enjoying the food and company too much to take a lot of snaps.
I was the first of our group to arrive at Green Man and French Horn, another restaurant in the group that includes Terroirs, Soif and Brawn. This venue, a few minutes from Covent Garden, focuses on the food and wines of the Loire, an area I visited this summer. But, I was still totally lost when I tried to find a suitable wine, perhaps because my recent trip focused on Chenin Blanc and Savennieres. Winter for me means rich, fruity red wines and hearty dishes of game so my little book of learning about the Loire was totally useless. In the few minutes before my friends arrived I had a chance to look around. Green Man and French Horn is modelled very much in the same style as Terroirs, although all on one level, with one restaurant area and with a rather simpler food offering as a result. I eventually picked a glass of Cheverny to sip while I waited and rather enjoyed the light, fruity pinot noir/gamey blend.
The staff were friendly and helpful, despite a very full restaurant (there was a small queue when I arrived at 7pm), and let us taste before they brought more wine when my first friend arrived, in the form of a bottle of Saumur Champigny Germain. We were hungry and decided on a sharing dish of Baked Mache-Coulais with various things to dip. It was so good it was finished before I remembered I’d intended taking a photo! Never mind, the wine looks good doesn’t it;)
Slightly more robust and very fruity this was a great pairing with the venison that my friend and I both ordered, a wonderfully tender and well seasoned dish served with an autumnal mixture of vegetables.
The final member of our group was delayed at work and arrived just as our main courses arrived. But, the restaurant did manage to turn round her order of slip sole in lightening time and she was served before we were half way through our venison. And, pronounced it delicious.
Now, we went on to enjoy a shared dessert and coffee – the bill came to around £145 for the three of us, including service. The point for me of Green Man and French Horn is that you can enjoy the food and the ambience without feeling that it takes over the event. And, by no means do I intend that as negative criticism. Service is efficient without being intrusive and at least the dishes we sampled were good in a kind of ‘easy to eat without picking over’ way. It’s a great place to socialise and eat well.
As such, I need make no further excuse for my kind-of-review. Green Man and French Horn is somewhere to enjoy the food and wine in a way which feels natural and comfortable. A bit like a holiday in the Loire in London. And I liked it a lot!
Green Man & French Horn
54 St Martin’s Lane