• Home
  • Cocktails
  • Culture
    • Dance
    • Opera
    • Theatre
    • Outdoor
    • London Life
      • Foodie London
      • Visiting London – Five Must Do Sights
      • Visiting London – London Travel Tips
    • Balcony Gardening
  • Featured
    • Books
    • Home Delivery
    • Recipe Kits
    • Giveaways
  • Recipes
    • Meat
    • Soups
    • Lunch
    • Starters
    • Mains
    • Sides
    • Desserts
    • Cakes and Sweets
    • 5:2 Diet Recipes
    • Fish and Shellfish
    • Meat
    • Poultry
    • Vegetarian
  • Restaurants
    • Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia
    • Bermondsey, Borough and London Bridge
    • Chelsea
    • Camden
    • City of London
    • Clerkenwell
    • Covent Garden
    • Docklands
    • East London
    • Kings Cross
    • Knightsbridge
    • Kings Cross
    • Kensington
    • Marylebone
    • Mayfair
    • Oxford Circus
    • Oxford Circus
    • Paddington
    • St James
    • Soho
    • South Bank
    • South London
    • The Strand and Embankment
    • North London
    • Victoria and Pimlico
    • West London
    • Out of London
    • Miscellaneous
  • Travel UK
  • Travel Europe
    • Belgium
    • Croatia
    • Czech Republic
    • First Visit
      • Bulgaria
      • Netherlands
      • Poland
      • Romania
      • Slovenia
    • France
    • Germany
    • Greece
    • Italy
      • Sicily
    • Ireland
    • Portugal
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Travel Other
    • Caribbean Travel
      • Antigua
      • Barbados
      • Grenada
      • St Lucia
    • Ecuador
    • Egypt
    • India
    • Qatar
    • Mexico
    • Oman
    • Rodrigues and Mauritius
    • Sri Lanka
    • USA

London Unattached - Luxury Mid-Life London Lifestyle

Luxury London Lifestyle for mid-life Metropolitans - food, travel, restaurant reviews - London Unattached

You are here: Home / Travel / Europe / France / La Couvertoirade – The Knights Templar and More

La Couvertoirade – The Knights Templar and More

October 11, 2013 by Fiona Maclean 16 Comments

Tweet
Pin
Share
Flip
Share

Last Updated on April 7, 2019 by Fiona Maclean

Catflaps, Cardabelles and Templar Knights in Aveyron:

Meticulously restored medieval fortified villages are scattered throughout Europe. This is the first time though, that I’ve visited one with such excellent accommodation for cats. As we wandered through St Jean d’Alcas, a small face appeared from what might have been mistaken for some kind of drainage pipe and, as we took the obligatory snaps to post on Facebook,  disappeared back into the safety of his limestone home.

Cat Flap (ancient)

There are five major Knights Templar sites in Aveyron, fortified villages that were positioned strategically in the Causse du Larzac to enable production of food supplies, shipped out through the nearby port of Montpellier as well as providing an income for the Templars and later the Knights Hospitallers.

outside st jean d'alcas

Our short visit to Les Causses et Les Cevennes took us to two of them – both beautifully restored and, perhaps through the remoteness of the region, preserved much as they would have been in the 12th and 13th century.

outside la covertoirade

The guide at La Couvertoirade told us that the site was particularly important for farming – horses, sheep (for wool, milk and meat) and grain and explained that the Knights Templar were great landlords whose wealth came at least partly from their ability to protect and support their tenant farmers.  A religious military order, their original role was to protect pilgrims on the road to the Holy Land, then later to protect the land itself.

La Couvertoirade - castle

Although the Templars were ‘international’, their wealth and power in France grew to such an extent that at the start of the 14th Century, King Philip IV of France became concerned that his own supremacy was being undermined.  On Friday 13th 1307 all the Templars in France were arrested and accused of heresy, treason and various other crimes.  Many confessed under torture and the property of the Templar order was seized and passed to the Knights Hospitallers who had a similar role protecting crusades to the Holy Land.

La Couvertoirade Castle and Windmill

Needless to say, a legend has grown up around the date of Friday 13th.  The order of the Knights Templar was abolished in 1312 and  Jacques de Molay, the Grand Master and two other leaders of the order were burnt alive at the stake in Paris on 18 March 1314.  From the stake, legend says that Jaques cursed the King and Pope “from this your heinous judgement to the living and true God, who is in Heaven”, warning that within a year and a day, both would be called to answer God’s judgement.  And, both did die within a year of his execution, Philip in a hunting accident and Clement from a long illness.  Only the recent discovery of the Chinon parchment shows that papal trials had absolved the Knights before their execution.

I hadn’t realised that I visited one of the Knights Templar sites in Portugal earlier this year.  My fascination with Monsanto was the construction of the village in between large boulders, but it is also a fortified Templar castle and village. At La Couvertoirade the original village, just behind the hill where the castle was constructed, was moved by the Templars, both to facilitate protection of the villagers and to site the houses close to water.  The scarcity of water in the region means that houses were built with large ‘water tanks’ which stored rain water collected from the roofs.  And, even on the roads, an intricate system of drainage collected water to feed the animals.

La Couvertoirade - collecting water

Throughout the middle ages La Couvertoirade continued to prosper, extended fortifications protecting the village during the hundred years war and it was not until the French revolution that the property was returned to the farmers of the area.  Like many rural communities across Europe the population of La Couvertoirade declined rapidly during the 19th Century but the result is a small community where buildings are much as they always have been.  Restoration by the Conservatoire Larzac Templier et Hospitalier and an active programme to encourage craftsmen and women to move into the village means that it now has a population of around 200, whilst at its peak there were over a thousand inhabitants.

Causses et Cevennes - La Couvertoirade church

The five Templar sites in Aveyron are La Cavalerie, La Couvertoirade, Sainte-Eulalie de Cernon, Le Vialade Pas de Jaux and  St Jean d’Alcas.  We only had time for a brief visit to St Jean d’Alcas, originally a Cistercian Abbey and which remained for the most part, the property of the Church, governed by women even though it was one of the Commanderies of the Templar Knights.

La Couvertoirade - hospitaller graves in churchyard

And, although the original infrastructure at La Couvertoirade was the work of the Templars, later developments included the construction of the church by the Knights Hospitallers and a new Lavogne, just outside the village walls rather than inside.

Causses et Cevennes - Lavogne at La Couvertoirade

Charming to wander through, for me taking one of the guided tours (there are both audio tours and ones led by guides) is a must to discover the history of the villages in a little more detail.

La Couvertoirade - church inscription

The inscription, from the entrance to the church reads “Good people who pass by here pray god for the departed” and is written in the native language of the region (occitan), which our guide told us was still spoken by her own family at home.  And many of the houses in La Couvertoirade had the Cardabelle on the door.

Door with cardabelle

Exploring the story of the Knights Templar and Knights Hospitallers is just one of the many things to do in Causses and Cevennes – a unique and relatively unknown part of France.  Read more on my other posts – And, I have more to reveal over the next few weeks.

More thanks to Jackie Bru, Inger Berckhauer and  Lysiane Boissy d’Anglas from the tourist offices of Causses et Cevennes for their guidance and hospitality on this trip  and hospitality on this trip.

Filed Under: France, Travel

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Francesca @onegrloneworld says

    January 25, 2016 at 5:10 pm

    Another thing to add to my bucket list! I have never heard of the Templar sites before this post! You were able to soak in a lot of history and you retold it beautifully!

    Reply
  2. Karla | karlaroundtheworld says

    January 25, 2016 at 5:50 am

    This seems like a really interesting place and for you to understand it more, its important to listen to the guided tours. There’s a lot you’ll get from it. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  3. Mar says

    January 24, 2016 at 6:40 am

    Is that where the Friday 13th fears come from? I had no idea! Love all the Templars stories, it is a bit like watching a movie 🙂

    Reply
  4. Hitch-Hikers Handbook says

    January 23, 2016 at 11:45 pm

    I lived in Toulouse during my Erasmus exchange, but I was not aware of such a stunning place in the vicinity! What a shame, I would have loved to visit it! Did you go to Albi too?

    Reply
  5. Anna @ shenANNAgans says

    January 23, 2016 at 11:45 pm

    Im a total history ignoramus, so would totally love to experience this. Love your piccies too, especially the first one with the kitty poking his head out. 🙂

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      January 24, 2016 at 11:18 am

      It was a kind of cat tunnel – kitty could get in and out of the house through there!

      Reply
  6. EDITHB says

    April 11, 2014 at 6:13 am

    VERY ATTRACTIVE VILLAGE

    Reply
  7. Galina V says

    October 14, 2013 at 3:42 pm

    I have always been fascinated by the Templars. Love your photos. Stunning locations, so evocative.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      October 14, 2013 at 5:45 pm

      I was blissfully ignorant till this particular trip. You can tell because I went around Monsanto without realising the Templar link last year. The French have done a sterling job of restoring and managing the five sites in Aveyron and you can’t escape a bit of learning as you go round!

      Reply
  8. Chris says

    October 14, 2013 at 10:31 am

    Great pictures. I like to visit places like this when I get the chance to.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      October 14, 2013 at 10:46 am

      It’s a fascinating area Chris, I think you’d enjoy it. There are a lot of good hiking routes and some spectactular landscapes which I will write about soon!

      Reply
  9. Stevie Wilson says

    October 14, 2013 at 2:47 am

    this looks like a great place. I love the history and Knights Templar are very interesting.
    Stevie

    Reply
  10. globalmouse says

    October 13, 2013 at 11:43 am

    What a brilliant post. I really love history and know a little about this area but not enough so this was fascinating. You have made me really want to visit – definitely adding it to my bucket list!! Thank you for sharing.

    Reply
  11. Pamela Morse says

    October 12, 2013 at 8:59 pm

    Even though the crusades were crazy, they did leave some good stonework behind…I love the picture with the windmill…

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      October 12, 2013 at 11:20 pm

      The Knights Templar and Hospitallers were key in the development of europe for many reasons. These villages are fascinating because of the way they have remained pretty much preserved entact!

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Follow Us

  • Bloglovin
  • Facebook
  • Google+
  • Instagram
  • LinkedIn
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • StumbleUpon
  • Tumblr
  • Twitter

About London-Unattached

  • About Fiona Maclean
    • Writing for Other Publications
  • Enquiries/PR
  • Links to Other Sites
  • London Unattached Contributors
  • London Unattached Privacy Policy
  • Media Pack
  • Newsletter
  • Travel Bloggers Influencer Network

Recently Published

  • Get in a stew with British shellfish
  • God Save the Gin!
  • Borough Market Edible Histories
Looking for more recipes? Check out my new site, The Frugal Flexitarian, for easy, cost effective recipes to enjoy at home.
Find My 5:2 Diet Recipes quickly and easily

London Unattached Newsletter

Sign up for our newsletter here. We promise not to spam - and you can unsubscribe at any time

Search London Unattached


Find Us

blogl
VuelioTop10Badge2020

Copyright © 2021 · Magazine Pro Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in