Last Updated on December 3, 2019
The Mayflower and Speedwell in Dartmouth
Although the annual Thanksgiving Dinner marks the survival of the early European settlers in New England, the less remarked upon, but nonetheless remarkable story, is of the initial obstacles they encountered even before setting sail across the perilous Atlantic Ocean. This is set to change with a series of events taking place in the lead up to and during 2020, the 400th anniversary of the sailing of the Mayflower and its 102 passengers to a new life in a new world. We are exploring the Mayflower heritage in Dartmouth in this feature, one of a series on the historic voyage of the Mayflower.
The Mayflower Story should, in fact, be the history of two ships. But, the lesser-known Speedwell, on which the Pilgrims travelling from the Netherlands had set sail, failed to embark on the ocean crossing due, it is rumoured, to sabotage by sailors fearing the journey ahead.
Having rendezvoused initially with the Mayflower at Southampton, the Speedwell limped along the south coast of England, before being abandoned finally in Plymouth, where the famous “saints” and “sinners” regrouped and reembarked on their journey to a new world in the Mayflower.
The false start from Southampton took the Pilgrims on a detour when the Speedwell ‘leaking like a sieve’ and the Mayflower were taken to Dartmouth to make good the damage, before setting sail again. The Mayflower was moored on the River Dart besides what is subsequently known as Pilgrim Hill while repairs were made to the Speedwell in Bayard’s Cove natural harbour. So the Mayflower heritage is real here – and definitely worth exploring
Dartmouth is a town full of culture, history and heritage, dating back to 1147. With its sheltered and deep-water moorings, Dartmouth has always been an important harbour. It was a setting off point for the Crusades and the D-Day landings, for the ships fighting the Armada and for privateers heading out to pillage enemy ships. More peacefully, the port was a centre for pilgrims heading to Canterbury as well as for merchant vessels sailing the Atlantic and Mediterranean.
The history of Dartmouth is the history of England, with its 14th century church, the remains of a Tudor castle (built to protect the English from the French over centuries of diplomatic fall-outs), Elizabethan houses, a Jacobean shopping mall, a naval college built high on a hill when England’s navy ruled the waves and the quayside which the Pilgrims would still recognise.
A good point of orientation is the Dartmouth Museum housed in the historic Butterwalk, a delightfully wonky terrace of merchants’ houses built in the first half of the 17th century. With an eclectic collection of historic artefacts, it offers fascinating insights into the town’s development throughout the centuries. A particular highlight is the unique, priceless, plastered ceiling showing the Tree of Jesse, Jesus’ family tree, thought to be the only representation in plaster and lucky to have escaped destruction by the Roundheads during England’s bloody Civil War.
Dartmouth’s links with the Royal Navy go way back and for many, the town is synonymous with the world-famous Britannia Royal Naval College, which grandly overlooks the town and the river and is said to be where Prince Philip met the then Princess Elizabeth. This working military establishment trains officers for the Royal Navy and for forces from Commonwealth countries around the world. The College is an important part of Dartmouth life and you will see uniformed young officers, male and female, out and about in the town. Guided tours are available on selected dates throughout the year when you’ll see the parade ground, quarterdeck, the elegant chapel and the Britannia Heritage Museum.
A short walk from the old centre of the town, through the narrow, cobbled streets and past pretty painted houses, brings you to the narrow mouth of the Dart protected by two forts, Dartmouth Castle on the west side and Kingswear Castle across the water on the east. Dartmouth Castle, or fortress, guarded the entry to the busy Dart Estuary for over 600 years and was active until WWII. It boasts a colourful history and houses interesting artefacts including a mighty harbour chain the purpose of which will be familiar to history buffs and Game of Thrones fans alike. Lovely St Petrox Church, dating from 1192, clings to the cliffside nearby. The castle’s café offers a great cream tea and with the South West Coast Path leading off invitingly into the distance, it’s a great spot to stop and consider the stories of the people who have passed this way over the centuries.
The defences were started in 1388 by local celebrity, John Hawley, the 14 times mayor, merchant and pirate. Thought to be the inspiration for one of Chaucer’s Canterbury pilgrims, the Shipman, his tomb lies in the town’s lovely Church of St Saviour.
Apart from Hawley’s tomb, St Saviour’s is a must-see for its beauty – it’s been praised as one of the best churches in England with its 17th century gallery, fabulously ornate 15th century rood screen and with its magnificent 14th century ironwork door.
At the time of the Pilgrims’ visit, Dartmouth was an important port, exporting wool and cloth and bringing home wine from Bordeaux. It would later become a leader in the Newfoundland fish trade. Although the town’s fortunes changed through the centuries, today it remains a thriving community, a destination offering visitors good food, a wealth of attractions and events to enjoy, a happy mixture of local shops and suppliers. The ancient street patterns are still there, however, and it’s possible to imagine the Mayflower Pilgrims and their fellow adventurers walking over the cobbles and climbing the steep hills, looking out to sea and pondering the journey yet to come.
Fact Box
Jenny was a guest of the Mayflower 400 Partnership, eleven towns working together to commemorate the 400-year anniversary of the sailing of the Mayflower in 1620. Dartmouth has planned an exciting programme of events running from November 2019 and throughout 2020. She stayed at the smart but relaxing Dart Marina Hotel and Spa; ate a delicious dinner of locally sourced ingredients at The Royal Castle Hotel and enjoyed a wonderful Sunday lunch at Bayards Cove Inn.
You can read more about the journey of the “saints” and “sinners” aboard the Mayflower as they made ready to leave England for their new world here on London-unattached.com in a series of features about the Mayflower Heritage.
There are some special tours available for those interested in learning more about the Mayflower on the English Riviera. Worth finding out more about if you don’t want to miss anything while you are in Devon.
Meanwhile, why not pin this post for later
Wow, I never thought about the England that the pilgrims left from. Some much history in Dartmouth, I’m sure the 400 year celebration will be amazing!
Oh wow that Mayflower 400 event is interesting, really glad that preparation is ongoing. One thing I admire the most is how it is still preserved. Full of story about its history, heritage and culture. And to top it all is the architecture too. I’ve never seen like this nor heard of this
Very interesting history. I am glad so much is preserved. The old door in the castle speaks a lot.
A walking tour there sounds exciting to me.
The 400th anniversary! Oh, can anyone imagine how was to sail four hundreds years ago?! I wish I could take a time machine to experience sailing hundreds and hundreds of years ago …
Jenny, what a great post — SO much history. I did not know (or had forgotten) and the Speedwell, and it’s great to find out about the beginnings of the voyage that was the beginning of everything we now are in America. Enjoyed your photography and your writing. Thanks for sharing!
I have some Mayflower ancestors in my family and would love to do this trip. This is a great trip and the town looks cute, definitely something I’d like to explore.
,I took a tour with a group around 2000. I was able to see many sights and even the town where my forebears came from!
Dartmouth is a super cute seaside town and I didn’t realize there was so much history here. I’m not so sure I would get back on any boat to go across the Atlantic after it leaked and had to be repaired!
Dartmouth looks so interesting! I can’t wait to visit, I love places so steeped in history!
Nice to know the preparations for Mayflower 400. Just surfed the 11 towns on the Mayflower Trail…been to three: Southampton, England, Boston, and Dartmouth!
Looks like a fun town to explore! Very cool how rich in history it is! I think I would’t mind eating my way around the area as well lol
I love these English traditional buildings; you really get a feel of the past. I’m unfamiliar with the Mayflower, but enjoyed reading the story behind it. Dartmouth looks very pretty, and a town I’ve yet to see.
I’ve always been fascinated by the old maritime routes, East India etc, mostly because of the wealth of food it brings. There’s gotta be some great grub in Dartmouth 🙂
I have never been to Dartmouth but it sounds like it’s full of interesting history and heritage. I love those old buildings and would love to explore the town.
So much history. I think it would be cool to visit it for the 400th of sailing with all the celebrations and events. Nice pictures by the way.