• Home
  • Cocktails
  • Culture
    • Dance
    • Opera
    • Theatre
    • Outdoor
    • London Life
      • Foodie London
      • Visiting London – Five Must Do Sights
      • Visiting London – London Travel Tips
    • Balcony Gardening
  • Featured
    • Books
    • Home Delivery
    • Recipe Kits
    • Giveaways
  • Recipes
    • Meat
    • Soups
    • Lunch
    • Starters
    • Mains
    • Sides
    • Desserts
    • Cakes and Sweets
    • 5:2 Diet Recipes
    • Fish and Shellfish
    • Meat
    • Poultry
    • Vegetarian
  • Restaurants
    • Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia
    • Bermondsey, Borough and London Bridge
    • Chelsea
    • Camden
    • City of London
    • Clerkenwell
    • Covent Garden
    • Docklands
    • East London
    • Kings Cross
    • Knightsbridge
    • Kings Cross
    • Kensington
    • Marylebone
    • Mayfair
    • Oxford Circus
    • Oxford Circus
    • Paddington
    • St James
    • Soho
    • South Bank
    • South London
    • The Strand and Embankment
    • North London
    • Victoria and Pimlico
    • West London
    • Out of London
    • Miscellaneous
  • Travel UK
  • Travel Europe
    • Belgium
    • Croatia
    • Czech Republic
    • First Visit
      • Bulgaria
      • Netherlands
      • Poland
      • Romania
      • Slovenia
    • France
    • Germany
    • Greece
    • Italy
      • Sicily
    • Ireland
    • Portugal
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Travel Other
    • Caribbean Travel
      • Antigua
      • Barbados
      • Grenada
      • St Lucia
    • Ecuador
    • Egypt
    • India
    • Qatar
    • Mexico
    • Oman
    • Rodrigues and Mauritius
    • Sri Lanka
    • USA

London Unattached - Luxury Mid-Life London Lifestyle

Luxury London Lifestyle for mid-life Metropolitans - food, travel, restaurant reviews - London Unattached

You are here: Home / Travel / Europe / Croatia / Nin – The Island of Kings #LoveCroatia

Nin – The Island of Kings #LoveCroatia

June 13, 2015 by Fiona Maclean 18 Comments

Tweet
Pin
Share
Flip
Share

Last Updated on January 29, 2020 by Fiona Maclean

A brief visit to Nin:

Standing outside the Tourist Information Office, I look across the bridge to an ancient stone gateway.  The tiny island across the water is the historic old town of Nin.  It’s just 500m in diameter, connected to the mainland by two old bridges.  Walk across, like me,  and you’ll find yourself immersed in history and culture.

nin gate

Nin was a main settlement of the Liburnians,  founded in the 9th century BC.  You can still see remains of a large Illyrian temple while the museum of Nin Antiquities houses maps of the excavation of over 100 Liburnian graves together with a fine collection of jewellery and pottery collected from the graves.  During Roman times the town grew in importance.

The Bura over salt pans, Nin

The development of salt pans was key to the importance of Nin (or Aenona, as it was then called).  Romans valued salt, not just for adding flavour, but for helping to preserve foods, in the days before refrigeration.  There’s little to see of the salt production in the main town, the salt museum and salt flats are on the mainland, but, like Pag, salt was a key economic driver for this small Island and the wealth it generated is evident in the remains of a large Roman temple, forum, and other Roman remains.

nin roman remains

Although Nin was largely destroyed in the 7th century by the Avars and Slavs, the city gained a particular significance to the rulers of Croatia.  Known as the ‘oldest Croatian Royal town’ today, legend has it that seven Kings were crowned in Nin, presented to the people at the Church of St Nicholas just outside the main town.

The first Croatian bishop held court in Nin (from the middle of the ninth century) and in the Medieval period the island had 12 churches and 3 monesteries.  During what is known as the ‘Golden Period’ Croatian national rulers used the Island as a temporary or permanent home, though much of the Island was destroyed later.  Indeed, the ‘Queen’s Beach’ is so called because the first Croatian king, Tomislav, visited Nin with his Queen after his coronation.  She loved the sandy beach with mud baths, where she could bathe and soften her skin.  One day, King Tomislav joined his wife and promised her that ‘this place will be only yours when you come to Nin’.

Nin Cathedral

The Church of the Holy Cross, a 9th century construction, is one of the few remaining buildings.  It was cloudy when I visited, but the construction of the church means that it serves as both a sundial and a calendar, with Sun shining through the windows to indicate the time of year.

Nin - statue of St Gregory

Nearby, the statue of Bishop Gregory, a contemporary of Tomislav, stands.  It’s worth a visit just to touch his shining big toe(!) and make a wish.  You never know…it might come true.

Nin - church of st Nicholas

The Church of St Nicholas was built in the 11th/12th century, just outside the town, on top of a prehistoric tumulus.  If, like me, you think it looks a little more like a castle than a church, you would be correct.  In the 16th and 17th century, defensive crenelation was added and the Church was used as an observation post.

Nin, along with much of the Dalmatian Coast, was given to the Venetians in 1409.  Destroyed twice during Venetian rule, it is said that the town was sacrificed to save Zadar.  The charm of this small town though, seems unassailable.

Ancient lock gates control water Nin

A visit to the salt pans, Solana Nin, serves as a good example of regeneration.  The network of salt pans were closed under Venetian rule, but have been reinstated some 500 years later.  Today, they still operate traditionally, with waterways and wooden locks connecting the pans, controlling how quickly the salt is formed.  The salt from Solana Nin, in particular the ‘fleur de sel’ is particularly fine, thanks to the surrounding environment; this part of Croatia is dominated by natural parks.  The salt pans are a haven for birds, including the Black Winged Stilt, apparently capable of walking on water, making it’s way across the shallows in search of food.

Walking on Water - salt Flats Nin

What more is there in Nin?

Marshland gladioli nin

Still under development is the medicinal mud centre.  Even if you don’t intend to try the mud, it’s worth a visit to this tranquil wetland, laced with rare marshland flowers like the dainty wild gladiolus, and stunning views across to the Velabit mountain.

Therapeutic mud nin

The bura, a cold wind which comes down from the Velabit mountain range in billowing white clouds, is credited with many things.  It is said that the air carries health-giving properties from the mountains, making the salt from Nin particularly precious.  And, without the wind, Sokol wouldn’t exist.  A local delicacy it is produced by first salting pork neck for three to seven days, then marinading it in spiced red wine, then smoking it and finally drying it outdoors in the bura.  The result is a fine dry-cured meat which has an intense flavour like no other.

Sokol - nin

Another local speciality can be found at the Donkey farm, Dar-Mar.  Donkey milk (yes, I did try), is sweet and light.  It is known as a cure for whooping cough, as a breast milk substitute and as an excellent aid to all kinds of convalescing.  Whether or not you drink the milk, it’s worth a visit to see the donkeys, pigs, chickens, geese and ducks.

Niin -donkeys 2

This is a part of Croatia well suited to families.  The beaches here are sandy and safe for swimming. Just outside the old town you’ll find Zaton, a large holiday resort with a well equipped camp-site, private beaches, kids activities and some beautifully fitted out self catering apartments.  While I’d personally prefer to stay in a hotel or guest house, Zaton offers any young family the opportunity to mix and match culture, food, sun and sand in a relaxed and informal setting.

Sandy Beach - Nin

Nin packs a punch well above it’s size.  While there’s an obvious dependence on tourism, the effect is subtle – there’s enough variety to keep everyone happy.  Added to which, the meals I enjoyed on the island were some of the best from this visit to Croatia.

Like Zadar,  Nin is relaxed and friendly. Just 14km from the regional capital, it is easy enough to reach from the UK now you can fly direct with RyanAir.

Nin Lagoon sunset

With many thanks to the Croatian Tourist Board for hosting my trip to Zadar and the surrounding area.

My trip to Nin was hosted by the Nin Tourist Board

 

 

Filed Under: Croatia Tagged With: Culture, Dalmatia, History, nin

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Emme @ Green Global Travel says

    June 28, 2015 at 9:50 pm

    Cool post. The food (including the donkey milk) looks flavorful and unique. And the beaches are beautiful! I’d love to visit.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      June 28, 2015 at 9:51 pm

      May next year is the time to go…one of the things the Island is famous for is a celebration about a vision of Mary – and it’s the 500th year anniversary next year

      Reply
  2. Peter Parkorr says

    June 22, 2015 at 10:14 am

    Looks like a nice quiet place to explore on a lazy day! The cured meat sounds delicious… not as sure about the donkey milk 🙂

    Reply
  3. Travelwith2ofus says

    June 21, 2015 at 7:40 pm

    Definitely on my list when i visit Croatia.

    Reply
  4. Beverly Burmeier says

    June 20, 2015 at 4:16 pm

    Thanks for broadening my perspective of Croatia. I’ve only been to Split and Dubrovnik.

    Reply
  5. Mansoureh says

    June 20, 2015 at 3:18 pm

    I haven’t heard the name of Nin before, but your piece encourage me to read and get more information about it and put in my list to visit

    Reply
  6. zof says

    June 20, 2015 at 2:43 pm

    I’ve been to Croatia many times, but I’ve never properly explored the north…perhaps it’s time to change that…

    Reply
  7. Valeria says

    June 20, 2015 at 2:39 pm

    I’m always happy to read about places I’ve never heard of. A lot of people tell me that Croatia is beautiful, and this place looks like a gem!

    Reply
  8. Hitch-Hikers Handbook says

    June 20, 2015 at 2:10 pm

    Lovely island! Shame we didn’t know about it when we visited Croatia!

    Reply
  9. Flashpacker Family says

    June 20, 2015 at 1:06 pm

    This is the first time I’ve heard of Nin! I went to Croatia quite a few years ago but just to Split and Dubrovnik. Would love to go back and explore more.

    – Bethaney

    Reply
  10. Inma says

    June 20, 2015 at 12:51 pm

    Have visited Croatia during an Interrail trip last March but skipped this beauty! Goota come back soon then 🙂 Thanks for putting it in my radar!

    Reply
  11. Claudia says

    June 20, 2015 at 12:05 pm

    Lovely post. I really liked Croatia when I went there, in 2006. I really should make it a point to visit again!

    Reply
  12. Suze The Luxury Columnist says

    June 18, 2015 at 5:09 pm

    Love the new look website Fiona, and how interesting to read about the salt pans. Nin looks like a beautiful area – did you do any cycling, I noticed the first photo?

    Suze

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      June 19, 2015 at 8:31 am

      no, none at all!

      Reply
  13. Alison says

    June 15, 2015 at 12:21 pm

    What a gorgeous place. I always wondered about going but never have. Love the bird walking though the water

    Reply
  14. Stevie Wilson says

    June 14, 2015 at 10:57 pm

    This looks like such a great place to go visit. I know it’s pretty affordable there but this place sounds like a bargain.. and lots to see

    Reply
  15. Pamela Morse says

    June 14, 2015 at 1:43 am

    The first time I have heard of donkey mink…but why not? What an interesting destination..must be pretty reasonable.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      June 14, 2015 at 11:16 am

      Food, wine and health/beauty treatments are less than half the price of the UK. Hotels about 2/3rd. Most attractions charge a tiny admission fee, but nothing like the tourist attractions in London, Florence, Paris or Amsterdam

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Follow Us

  • Bloglovin
  • Facebook
  • Google+
  • Instagram
  • LinkedIn
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • StumbleUpon
  • Tumblr
  • Twitter

About London-Unattached

  • About Fiona Maclean
    • Writing for Other Publications
  • Enquiries/PR
  • Links to Other Sites
  • London Unattached Contributors
  • London Unattached Privacy Policy
  • Media Pack
  • Newsletter
  • Travel Bloggers Influencer Network

Recently Published

  • Venison Casserole – Spiced Venison in Ale
  • Banquist sprinkles Michelin stardust on your cooking
  • Sherlock Holmes: An Online Adventure – Review
Looking for more recipes? Check out my new site, The Frugal Flexitarian, for easy, cost effective recipes to enjoy at home.
Find My 5:2 Diet Recipes quickly and easily

London Unattached Newsletter

Sign up for our newsletter here. We promise not to spam - and you can unsubscribe at any time

Search London Unattached


Find Us

blogl
VuelioTop10Badge2020

Copyright © 2021 · Magazine Pro Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in