Fine Bistro Dining at Orchid54:
Living South of the River now, it’s unusual for me to venture North beyond zone II let alone to Zone VI. But, an invitation from Chef Adebola Adeshina, the Chef Patron at Orchid54 was one not to miss. I met Ade a few weeks earlier at The Petersham Hotel, where he is Head Chef. We’d eaten particularly well on that day and really enjoyed the new menu that he’d been developing. And, I already knew that he’d worked under Gordon Ramsay and The Galvin Brothers. A visit to his own restaurant was something I jumped at the chance to do, although I still wonder how he manages to run Orchid54 and the kitchen at The Petersham!
We started with a glass of Moutard champagne for me and a passion fruit prosecco for my companion. The restaurant offers three champagnes by the glass or bottle and a short but well balanced and reasonably priced wine list with a few options by the glass and with a range of prices for bottles from £18 to £80 plus.
I was curious to see whether Ade’s food here was as good as the meal we’d eaten at The Petersham Hotel and I wasn’t disappointed.
I started with the squid ink crab tortellini with prosecco sauce. The squid ink pasta was beautifully al-dente, with a slight saltiness and the tortellini was filled with the lightest crab mousse. Prosecco sauce was delicate, buttery and lemony, a lovely contrast.
Meanwhile, my companion had picked the seared pigeon breast with sage gnocchi. An initial impression that it might be overcooked was quickly dispelled, the meat was beautifully tender. The gnocchi was the subject of some discussion – it was about twice the size of the gnocchi we are used to seeing.
I drank a glass or two of St Clair Tuatara Bay Sauvignon Blanc with the meal. A lively, classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc which went well with my starter and with my main course of Halibut with pumpkin tortellini, raisins and brown shrimps. More of that delicious pasta, this time with a sweet pumpkin filling. The halibut was perfectly cooked and I loved the contrast of the firm fish with the raisins and brown shrimps.
My companion’s honey glazed confit duck leg with sweet rosti and aged prunes was something of a disappointment. I’ve noticed that chefs do sometimes get into the habit of over-salting food and in her opinion the confit duck was far too salty. The dauphinoise we ordered as a side dish was also somewhat stodgy, so what could have been a wonderful dish really didn’t quite work.
It did, however, mean that she had room for dessert which I most certainly didn’t! Her pistachio cheesecake looked delicious.
45 Church Street, Enfield, EN2 6AJ
Call: 020 8363 8813