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You are here: Home / Travel / Eat, Sleep, Do in Porto

Eat, Sleep, Do in Porto

February 12, 2017 by Fiona Maclean 22 Comments

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Last Updated on May 7, 2020 by Fiona Maclean

A quick guide to Porto – Northern Portugal – Porto Part II

While for some, the whole point of Porto is Port Wine, there is a lot more to discover in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The second-largest city in Portugal, Porto really does have a charming personality of its own.  A brief visit in October last year has just left me wanting to find out more.  I’ve already written about Port Wine.  It’s worth knowing though that,  for those who are looking for culture, Porto has plenty more to offer.

Douro River Cruise 2

Eat Porto

We discovered very quickly that Porto has an excellent food and drink offering.

I’ve already written about the Port Houses in Vila Nova de Gaia, many of which have excellent dining options available.  Please check my previous post for more information about those.  There are plenty more places to eat in Porto though which don’t take you into the Port Houses themselves.

Fish fixe exterior 2

We particularly enjoyed the casual dining at the charming Fish Fixe.  We feasted on tapas-style portions of octopus salad, salt cod balls, tempura style salt cod, stewed mussels, smoked salmon, seafood rice and more.  The restaurant is right on the banks of the Douro, so you can sit in the window and watch the boats passing along the river while you eat.

Fish fixe Porto Cod

Do make sure you try the salt cod balls and do save space for dessert – pudim abade de priscos which is a kind of caramel custard made with lard, port wine, lemon, cinnamon and sugar.  Invented in the 19th century it is now regarded as one of the quintessential tastes of Porto.

Fish Fixe - View - Porto

Or, just outside the Old Town, you’ll find Os Lusiadas, named after the eponymous epic poem by Luís Vaz de Camões.  Here, in a relatively simple setting, you’ll find ultra-fresh seafood served in simple, traditional recipes.

Shellfish Os Luisada

We enjoyed the massive mixed seafood platters with barnacles, stewed clams with garlic and olive oil and crab.

Os Lusiadas Porto - shellfish

And, the highlight of the meal was seabass cooked in a salt crust with mashed potatoes and salted vegetables.  Somewhere to try if you want to avoid the regular tourist haunts, the place was full of Portuguese families out for the evening.

Salt Baked Sea Bass - Os Lusiadas Porto

The Old Town itself seems to be packed with delicatessens and tea rooms where you can buy a snack to eat on the go or sit down with a coffee and a pastry.

Shopping Porto

When I get the chance to return, I’m definitely going to explore more of the food offerings on the outskirts of Porto.  We had a chance to wander around the fishing village of São Pedro da Afurada for half an hour or so and passed a number of Tavernas getting ready for a lunch service of freshly caught fish grilled on a charcoal barbeque.

Do Porto – Culture and Heritage.

Moving on to ‘what to do in Porto’, São Pedro da Afurada isn’t a bad place to start.  A small, traditional village on the outskirts of the city, you’ll find the old houses beautifully decorated with a seemingly random selection of Azulejos, which have both a decorative purpose and help to provide a stable temperature and waterproof the buildings.

Tiles - Porto

You may find washing hanging out to dry along the banks of the Douro.  While the men of this village would fish for their living, the women took in washing from the wealthier inhabitants of Porto.  The traditional communal laundry is still in operation too, using a special natural soap.

Washing - Porto

You can walk from São Pedro da Afurada to the Douro Marina.

Porto - Douro Marina 2

We enjoyed a river cruise with FeelDouro, a company which offers the option of private tours and cruises on the Douro, yacht charter and a variety of water-based adventure activities.

Porto from the River

I’d recommend finding a way to spend some time on the river – it’s one of the best ways to get a feel for Porto, for the significance of the Port Houses and for the architecture of the traditional old city.

Porto - Bridge

Even, if all you do is cross the splendid Ponte Luís I which opened in 1886.  The bridge was designed by a student of the famed Gustave Eiffel and I’m sure you can see a resemblance?

Or, take the cable car across the Douro.  Both will give you a flavour of the City which you simply won’t get by staying on either bank of the River.

Porto - River

But, away from the river, there’s much, much more to see.

Exterior Lello bookshop Porto

Any Harry Potter fan will know not to miss Livraria Lello & Irmão or Livraria Chardron, one of Portugal’s oldest bookshops.  It is widely regarded as being one of the inspirations for J K Rowling, who lived in Porto in the early 1990s, working as an English teacher.  And, the Hogwarts costume too, is said to have been inspired by the traditional outfits of college students in Portugal – a black suit and long black cloak.

Staircase Lello Bookshop Porto

The shop now charges an entrance fee, but it is worth going inside to see the stunning staircase which looks to be made of carved wood but is in fact reinforced concrete with a plaster cladding. It is generally very busy and you may have to queue, even after you’ve paid the 5.50 euro entry fee.

Stained Glass Window Lello - Porto

Originally opened in 1906, the neo-gothic facade, double-height ground floor and galleried upper floor has remained largely as it was when Livraria Lello first opened. A stained-glass skylight floods the upper floor with light and the walls are lined with ornately carved polished wood.  Lonely Planet considers it to be the third most beautiful bookshop in the world.

Bookshop Lello in Porto Interior

Another ‘not to be missed’ place in the old town is the Palácio da Bolsa (the Stock Exchange) which was built in the 19th Century by the city’s Commercial Association.

Palacio da Bolsa - hallway

Palacio da Bolsa Porto hallway

You need to join a guided tour to see the interior, but it’s definitely worth doing, even if you only go to see the stunning ballroom known as the Salão Árabe (Arabian Hall), where the walls have been decorated in Moorish designs and then gilded with real gold.

Porto Palacio Da Bolsa

It’s worth taking some time and just walking around the old town too.  Even the São Bento train station is beautifully decorated with azulejos.

Station Porto

There are so many not-to-be-missed churches decorated in stunning azelejos,  so many pretty fountains, towers and ornate houses.

Porto - houses

Proclaimed a World Heritage by UNESCO in 1996, I have every intention of going back and spending more time just wandering around the narrow winding streets.

Porto Church 3

If you are looking to explore Porto, for a relaxed and luxurious way to see the City, then it may be worth booking a trip with Classico Porto who offer car tours of the city and surrounds

Porto - classico Porto 2

Our own trip was just a taster, but the company offers half-day tours in their vintage cars with liveried drivers.

Porto Classico - 2

It’s a fun way to travel – and definitely a good way to take life easy for a few hours.  We took the opportunity to travel to the Fort of São Francisco do Queijo, (the Castle of the Cheese – so named because of the cheese shaped rock it is built on).

Fort at Porto

It is just outside Old Porto in Nevogilde and beside the fortress itself with a small museum inside, there’s a beach.

Porto Serralves Foundation Gardens 2

Classico Porto has a range of trips including one will take you to the Serralves Foundation, a spectacular museum, park, heritage farm and house on the outskirts of Porto.

Porto Serralves Foundation Garden 3

Our own visit there was by conventional minibus, but that didn’t stop it being any less worthwhile.  Considered to be one of Portugal’s leading cultural institutions, the entire architectural and landscape heritage was classified as a National Monument on December 6th 2012.  To me, it felt as if I’d suddenly been transported to the west coast of the USA.

Serrales Foundation Art Porto

The Museum of Contemporary Art was designed by Álvaro Siza and the gardens designed by Jacques Greber and Serralves Villa.  I have a feeling if I lived in Porto I’d spend a lot of time just wandering around the peaceful gardens.

Porto Serralves Foundation - rare breeds

The Arts are definitely well catered for in Porto, with the architecturally stunning Casa da Música providing a unique space for the production and performance of all types of music.

Casa Da Musica exterior

Designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, it does look, apparently intentionally, like a large meteor from the outside.

 Soundproofing-in-the-casa-da-musica.jpg 12th February 2017 168 KB 1000 × 731 Edit Image Delete Permanently URL https://www.london-unattached.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Soundproofing-in-the-casa-da-musica.jpg Title Soundproofing in the casa da musica

Inside there are many unique and innovative acoustic design features so that various rooms can be used simultaneously without any danger of noise pollution.

casa da Musica Porto

By the end of our 48-hour tour of Porto, I was left realising there was a lot more to see and do.  And, that what we had experienced for the most part warranted going back and taking more time.

Porto - Music

It is the sort of place where I want to just sit with my legs dangling over the river banks, listening to the buskers and watching the world go by.

Sleep Porto

We stayed at the Sheraton Hotel, just outside the old town.  It’s a modern hotel with excellent spa facilities and I managed to sneak in a good couple of hours using the pool, hydrotherapy pools and sauna.

Title Sheraton Porto - Room

An alternative, if you are looking for a more central location would be to stay at Hotel NH Collection Batalha in the old town.  It’s a newly renovated 18th-century palace which was once the home of a prominent wine-producing family.  If you plan on seeing Porto by foot, it might be easier to stay within the old town and this charming hotel really does have the feel of old Porto.  We popped in for gin and oysters (an excellent idea if you are in need of a little break in the late afternoon) and were charmed by this heritage hotel.

Gin and Oysters

Or, if your interest is in learning more about Port, then staying in  Vila Nova de Gaia would be the obvious choice.  The  Yeatman Hotel comes highly recommended and is part of the Taylor’s estate there.

Porto from Vila Nova de Gaia

Fact Box

For more information about Northern Portugal check their website
TAP Portugal flies direct from London Gatwick to Porto twice daily, prices start at £89 return including all taxes and surcharges.
For further information, visit www.flytap.com or call 0345 601 0932.
I stayed at The Sheraton – a five-star luxury hotel with amazing spa facilities
I was a guest of Porto and Northern Portugal Tourism Board

 

Thinking of travelling to Porto?  Why not pin this post for later

Porto, Portugal

 

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Portugal, Travel Tagged With: Heritage, Northern Portugal, Porto, Unesco

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Em S says

    March 13, 2017 at 1:55 pm

    These salt cod balls look delicious.

    Reply
  2. Marie Carr says

    March 7, 2017 at 10:55 pm

    This looks amazing xx

    Reply
  3. Kira says

    February 14, 2017 at 11:39 pm

    I went to Portugal a long time ago but didn’t go anywhere like this! Don’t think we got to explore much but I would love to go and see places like these!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      February 18, 2017 at 8:45 am

      There’s a lot of different things in Portugal – this was my first time in Northern Portugal and it was quite different to Centro and the Alentejo

      Reply
  4. Fashion and Style Police says

    February 14, 2017 at 11:37 pm

    Fab post. I love Sheraton hotels. They are always so nice.

    Reply
  5. Rachel says

    February 14, 2017 at 10:42 am

    I have friends who go to Porto every year and they love it. From these photos I can see why x

    Reply
  6. Mindi Hirsch says

    February 14, 2017 at 6:08 am

    When I think of Porto, I usually think about the port wine. You have me remembering the wonderful seafood and tiled buildings as well as the beautiful sunsets. Since my memories are getting rusty after ten years, it’s clearly time to schedule a return visit.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      February 18, 2017 at 8:45 am

      That anniversary! You should definitely go back!

      Reply
  7. Danielle says

    February 14, 2017 at 12:44 am

    This is my kind of trip. Looks like you had so much to do! The Arabian Hall is absolutely stunning, and I could spend all day at the marina.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      February 18, 2017 at 8:46 am

      I have to admit, I’d have spent all day at the marina, on the boat and wandering round the little fishing village if I could have done so

      Reply
  8. Susan Schwartz says

    February 13, 2017 at 12:40 pm

    I would love to go back! This brings back all the fab memories from our trip!

    Reply
  9. Fiona Maclean says

    February 13, 2017 at 9:46 am

    The blue and white ones in particular look so stunning against a grey sky. We SHOULD have them here, it would make perfect sense!

    Reply
  10. Rhian Westbury says

    February 13, 2017 at 9:09 am

    Sounds like an amazing trip. I’ve never been to Portugal but it looks beautiful x

    Reply
  11. Ickle Pickle says

    February 12, 2017 at 8:11 pm

    I have only briefly visited Portugal – Lisbon whilst on a cruise. This place looks amazing – and the food so delicious. Kaz x

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      February 13, 2017 at 9:45 am

      I do hope you get the chance to explore a little more – it’s a wonderful country and the hospitality is second to none

      Reply
  12. Rachel says

    February 12, 2017 at 7:18 pm

    Fabulous photos, Porto looks amazing and it’s somewhere I’d love to visit soon! xo

    Reply
  13. Rosana @ Hot&CHilli Food and Travel Blog says

    February 12, 2017 at 6:00 pm

    What a great time we had! Many fab highlights for me on this trip, food and drinks were amazing but the architecture is just stunning! R

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      February 12, 2017 at 8:03 pm

      It was a wonderful trip wasn’t it! I can’t pick one particular event…though I did rather like the river cruise

      Reply
  14. Mellissa Williams says

    February 12, 2017 at 4:23 pm

    I have been thinking about going to Lisbon, Poro and the Douro valley for ages. I really would love to go port wine tasting. I’m also a big fan of architecture and would love to see the blue tiles that this area is famous for. Bookmarking this post!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      February 12, 2017 at 4:25 pm

      I’m hoping to go back for the grape harvest this year. I really want to see the Quintas along the Douro – they still tread the grapes by foot!

      Reply
  15. Sam says

    February 12, 2017 at 4:23 pm

    I’ve never been to Portugal but I’d love to visit one day. One of my friends from work is Portuguese and she’s always talking about what a beautiful country it is!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      February 12, 2017 at 4:24 pm

      Portugal is a lovely country. It’s quite diverse and definitely worth going to some of the places other than Lisbon and the Algarve.

      Reply

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