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You are here: Home / Travel / Rodrigues Traditions – Fete du Poisson and Sega Tambour

Rodrigues Traditions – Fete du Poisson and Sega Tambour

March 31, 2018 by Fiona Maclean 16 Comments

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Two Traditions of Rodrigues

Lured by photos of pristine beaches, coral reefs and unspoilt coastal hikes, I didn’t anticipate encountering a UNESCO listed dance.  In my first post I’ve written a little more about the country of Rodrigues – and about some of the top things to do on the island.  But,  I’d thought very little about Rodrigues traditions and heritage.  But, one evening, back in my room at Cotton Bay hotel,  after dinner, I opened the doors of the balcony to sit out and look at the sea only to hear a lively dance start up in the distance.  On previous evenings the hotel entertainment had been gentler – a singer with a guitar player or sax.  This evening, what I heard was compelling – there was no possibility of sitting still and not going to find out more.

Cotton Bay Hotel Rodrigues

I was delighted to learn more about this Rodrigues tradition and to have the chance to see it at first hand.  Sega Tambour is a dance with origins in slave communities.  Energetic and vibrant, couples dance at arm’s length, with what appear to be courtly and country dance movements blending with twerking that would make Beyonce proud.  The music depends firstly on the Tambour, with various other percussion instruments including triyang (triangle), bwat (box) and mayo (sticks).  There are vocalists too – strong, rhythmic singers chanting in Creole.

Perhaps because of the percussive nature of the music, Sega tambour, which I  believe is a style of dance with tambour, percussion and vocals but no other instrumentation, is particularly dynamic, though there are other Rodrigues songs and dances, with the music often supplemented by an accordion player.  I tried my best to understand what the women were singing, but Creole is a strange language for those who speak English with a smattering of French.   It transpires that most of the songs tell stories of everyday life – a little googling, for example, came up with this beauty.

L’Herbe éléphant (elephant grass) was planted on the island in the 1950s to fight soil erosion and help feed livestock.

In Creole:

“Ca l’année là, nous fine trouve zoli quitchose. Grand grand dimoune. Assise tout ni dans l’éléphant”

“This year, we have seen some beautiful things. Old, old persons. Sitting naked in the elephant”.

The song goes on to tell the story of what goes on in the elephant grass, which I think I’ll leave to your imagination!

Even if the singers are in the somewhat sterile environment of a three-star hotel, there’s a passion in what they chant which is unmistakable.  Sega Tambour and the dance/music culture of Rodrigues stems from slavery on the island.   The French brought African slaves to the island during the 18th century.  But, in 1809, when the British defeated the French and took possession on the island, slavery was abolished. Apart from the tambour and percussion only Sega Tambour, various other dances like the Mazok Sega have clear European origins.  I’m guessing that the video below is Mazok Sega, mostly because the rhythmic patterns are so close to that of the Mazurka…

Despite enjoying the performance,  I did retire early, just as the spectators were drawn into the dance.  The next morning I had to be up before dawn for a trip out to sea to watch the celebrations for the start of the net fishing season.

Cotton Bay Hotel at Night - Rodrigues

Fete du Poisson is a major celebration and a Rodrigues tradition.

La Fete du Poisson

The island is set in a 240 km lagoon;  fishing is the main source of revenue for many Rodriguan families and the total fish caught annually is around twice that of its nearest and rather larger neighbour, Mauritius, at around 1755 tonnes.  There are around 1970 registered fishing boats, for an island with a population of around 40,000.  Apart from fish, islanders also catch around 500 metric tonnes of octopus, often seen drying on lines around the island.

Rodrigues - Drying Octopus - Rodrigues Fishing

But, it is important that fishing is sustainable – hence, the seine net fishing closed period which lasts from the start of October to the end of February.

Seine net fishing is a tradition that has been practised in Rodrigues since 1822.  The fishermen in long, shallow boats called pirogues, use a semi-circular net and ‘herd’ fish into the net by advancing toward the net, beating the water or the side of the boat with poles.  By fishing this way, less damage is done to the coral – the net isn’t dragged through the lagoon but carefully set out using poles to hold it in place.

Cotton Bay Hotel Dawn Rodrigues

 Even as the sun was rising, the fishermen were making their way to boats moored in the shallow waters.  From the beach, by the hotel, I could hear and just see the faint silhouettes wading through the sparkling waves.  A twenty minute or so journey from Baie du Nord to the lagoon was just a little bumpy thanks to the shallow waters and at times we had to stop while our boatman moved us along using a long pole as a kind of punt.  But we soon reached the fishermen who had already set their nets and were about to start moving in on their prey.
Rodrigues Fishing Nets
There was nothing there though – while this form of net fishing may be a Rodrigues tradition, it doesn’t have a 100% success rate.
Rodrigues Tradition - Rodrigues Fete du Poissons
Instead, the nets were gathered and we set off to a new part of the Lagoon.  We watched as the nets were carefully dropped into the waters forming a semi-circle, while the fishermen gathered in a line 50 metres or so away.  A colourful array, everyone was smiling, yet intent on the job at hand.  Apparently, it can sometimes take three attempts to find fish.
Then the action started – a gentle but persistent drumming as the boats closed in on the nets.  Slowly, creeping forward through the shallow waters, the smiles on the faces of the fishermen said it all.  I was mesmerised by the magic of silvery fish jumping up through the water, sometimes over the nets, sometimes into them.  This time there was going to be a fine result.
Rodrigues Fete du Poisson - Nets with fish
After twenty or thirty minutes, the nets were hauled up, complete with an impressive catch.  A group of fishermen pulled the fish from the nets and tossed them into the belly of a neighbouring boat, returning anything too small or unsuitable to the water.
Fete du Poisson Rodrigues - Sorting the Catch
The Rodrigues fishermen work as a co-operative and the catch is shared out among them all,  some reserved for their own personal use and the remainder sold to local traders, hotels and restaurants with the profit shared out.  Everyone seemed thrilled with the first day’s catch.
Rodrigues Fete du Poisson - Collecting the Catch
Back to shore, we pulled in on the banks of Baie du Nord to a lively, celebratory crowd waiting for the fish!  Then, of course, we feasted admirably on a fish stew, maize and beans and enjoyed the music, dancing and general fun.
Fete du Poisson Rodrigues
We were, of course, very lucky that our trip coincided with the first day of the net fishing season but, this style of fishing carries on throughout the season so you can still enjoy watching and learning about just one of the ways this small island is self-sustaining.
Female entrepreneur of Rodrigues - Fete du Poisson
Meanwhile, if you haven’t already done so do check my earlier post for a general introduction and some great things to do on Rodrigues.  I will be writing more about the island over the next few weeks so keep an eye out for more to come about accommodation, activities and entrepreneurship on the island.  I was thrilled to spot these ladies cooking at the Fete du Poisson – the female entrepreneurs of North Rodrigues!
 Fete du Poisson - Female Entrepreneurs of Rodrigues
Meanwhile, if you are thinking of visiting Rodrigues why not pin this post for later
Rodrigues Island, Fishing Rodrigues, Rodrigues Mauritius, fete du poisson rodrigues, sega tambour rodrigues
Fact Box

I was a guest of Tourism Rodrigues on this trip.

I flew to Rodrigues Island via Mauritius with Air Mauritius.  There are direct flights from London to Mauritius with Air Mauritius four times a week and further daily flights from London via Paris or Amsterdam.  Connecting flights from Mauritius to Rodrigues depart three times a day.

I stayed at Cotton Bay Resort and Spa and at Villa Evasion

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Rodrigues and Mauritius, Travel Tagged With: dance, Rodrigues, Unesco

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Paige says

    April 4, 2018 at 11:14 am

    What beautiful traditions in Rodrigues Island. It definitely looks like a cultural and beach paradise. I love that you’ve been able to really dive into the experiences, like the sustainable fishing. It looks like an absolutely wonderful escape from hustle and bustle too.

    Reply
  2. Carol Perehudoff says

    April 3, 2018 at 11:04 pm

    I like that it’s sustainable net fishing, which I’d never heard of. Twerking like Beyonce at night, singing about being naked in the Elephant Grass and fishing during day. That’s some wonderful kind of lifestyle and some fascinating traditions to learn about. Interesting read.

    Reply
  3. Rosemary says

    April 3, 2018 at 2:33 am

    Rodrigues sounds like a little paradise. Perfect timing for your trip to see the traditional dances and experience the fishing. What’s the population of the island? I’m truly fascinated and will read up more about. Mauritius is high on my list and it’s good to know about this gem of an island. The smiles of the ladies warm me up!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      April 3, 2018 at 8:07 am

      Population is around 40,000 – and there are 2,000 or so registered fishing boats!:) It’s about the same size as Jersey in the Channel Isles

      Reply
  4. Jody Robbins says

    April 3, 2018 at 1:21 am

    I’ve never heard of Rodrigues, but it sounds like a paradise. I love how they’re still connected to historic traditions. I used to dance competitively, so any country that keeps that tradition alive is a winner in my books.

    Reply
  5. Marcus and Mel says

    April 2, 2018 at 4:58 pm

    I want to know what these naked old people are doing in the elephant grass and someone must have thought ‘that’s a great idea for a song’, you should have stayed up and joined in the dancing. The Rodrigues Islands do look really interesting, the fishing and food at Baie du Nord looked a fun event.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      April 3, 2018 at 8:07 am

      LOl I agree I really should have stayed up! Too much ti’punch though – the local rum punch!!!

      Reply
  6. Kathleen says

    April 2, 2018 at 1:19 pm

    Very interesting. I had to look to see where this island is located. I lived in Martinique for a year, which is also a French island. They sound very similar in their activities, even though Martinique is in the Caribbean. I think it is the Creole influence. Try as I might, I never learned French or Creole while I was there. They mix it and speak so fast my brain could not keep up. I love watching their traditional dances and watching them fish as well. They catch some big ones sometimes.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      April 2, 2018 at 4:22 pm

      This isn’t a French island – it was at one point, but that was way back in the 18th Century. The third island of the Mascarene is still French I believe (Reunion). A lot of people on Rodrigues speak French though – although English is the language taught in schools. Creole is REALLY confusing – I speak a little French and I barely understand a word in Creole – though I can work it out when I see it written down!

      Reply
  7. Aleah says

    April 2, 2018 at 6:53 am

    Wish you would mention where Rodrigues is in the beginning, which country it belongs to. There are so many places of that name. That said, I love how clear the waters are, and how bountiful. Those fishermen caught a lot of fish!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      April 2, 2018 at 4:08 pm

      actually Aleah, there is only one island called Rodrigues and it is a country in its own right – though part of the Republic of Mauritius. If you check the overview post I link to in this article, you will find all that information. This is the second in the series, I don’t want to repeat the same information over and over again! That said, I’ve now put another link to the first article in the first paragraph to make it easier.

      Reply
  8. Tamara Elliott says

    March 31, 2018 at 7:21 pm

    Fun video! And wow, that island is gorgeous. Love the colour of the water, and how lucky were you to enjoy that sunrise?!

    Reply
  9. Sofia says

    March 31, 2018 at 5:30 pm

    This is so cool to learn about! My parent’s village in the south of Italy also has a large “fish festival” called “Sagra del Pesce” that sounds quite similar. It’s great to learn about how other cultures celebrate!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      March 31, 2018 at 8:06 pm

      Yes, I have heard about some of the Italian Sagra! – I’ve only been to the White truffle one in San Miniato – but I’d love to see more!!!

      Reply
  10. Danik says

    March 31, 2018 at 4:38 pm

    Nice to learn about the traditions of the Rodrigues. It’s good to hear about a form of net fishing which is more sustainable, and about the controls which Rodrigues have put in place to avoid overfishing. Love the video of the dancing, so hope to see this for real when I hit the island soon

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      March 31, 2018 at 6:07 pm

      I’m glad you appreciate that this is a sustainable form of net fishing, as I explain in the piece. Instead of dragging the nets, they are used as ‘traps’ and the fish are driven into them. That way the bed of the coral isn’t destroyed. The catch is then carefully sorted – small fish are put back as the nets are pulled up.

      In addition, the reason there’s a five-month closed season with no net fishing at all is to avoid any over-fishing by an island which is mostly dependent on fish for food. That is to allow the fish population to grow rather than diminish! It’s not the deep sea trawling of the north sea.

      Reply

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