Last Updated on February 21, 2024
New Discoveries in Bath Spa – London to Bath in a Day
Strange though it may see to those visiting England from abroad, I’ve been to Bath Spa on several occasions and never actually been into the Roman Baths. I actually used to go shopping in Bath when I lived in Wiltshire – it’s one of those pretty English Cities that seems to offer all the best shops you can find in London, without the crowds. So, this piece is a new discovery for me – but as I found out, the Roman Baths themselves have some major new discoveries. Travelling to Bath from London though is really easy – a two-hour drive or around an hour and half by train from Paddington.
I guess sometimes you do miss seeing things that are right on your own doorstep.
I really believe I shall always be talking of Bath, when I am at home again — I do like it so very much. If I could but have Papa and Mamma, and the rest of them here, I suppose I should be too happy! James’s coming (my eldest brother) is quite delightful — and especially as it turns out that the very family we are just got so intimate with are his intimate friends already. Oh! Who can ever be tired of Bath?
Jane Austen Northanger Abbey
On my day trip from London to Bath, the first thing I was intrigued to learn was that the Roman Baths as we know them were not visible to the public in Jane Austen’s time as the site had been built over by a row of houses. Society, in those days, flocked to Bath for a hedonistic lifestyle and to ‘take the waters’ in the Pump Room. You can still do so, though I have to admit, one sip of the sulphurous liquid was quite enough for me and I quickly moved on.
It wasn’t until Victorian times, in 1880 when the cellars of some of the houses started to flood that the site of the Roman Baths was discovered and excavated. And, much of what you see when you wander around today was actually built in the Victorian Period, an attempt to reconstruct the site as it would have been when the Romans expanded the shrine which had originally been built by the Celts and dedicated to Sulis. The baths in Roman times would have included suites of ‘spa facilities’ worthy of any five-star resort – caldarium (hot bath) tepidarium (lukewarm bath) and frigidarium for both sexes, along with the Great Bath, lined with lead to create a waterproof warm indoor swimming pool and various other spa facilities including a special heated room known as a laconicum. I love the virtual reality films projecting over the various rooms to show how the Romans would have used the site.
This time, I had a particular reason for visiting Bath Spa – to explore the ‘Archway Project’ which involves the excavation of a new part of the Roman baths – an area previously unexplored which is thought to link the baths themselves to what was one of the largest Roman settlements in the UK.
One of the challenges faced by the current excavations is that the City of Bath Spa has a UNESCO listing not just for the Roman Baths but also for the fine Georgian architecture. And that architecture, by and large, sits over the infrastructure of the Roman settlement meaning that excavation work is difficult to impossible. In some cases, as with Bath Abbey, large parts of the construction are actually recycled materials from the Roman baths and the rest of the city. Of course the stunning Georgian architecture only adds to the appeal of a day trip from London to Bath, but does make life much harder for those trying to discover more about the Roman Baths.
It’s a complex and sensitive challenge.
In fact, the current Archway project at the Roman Baths is only happening because of work on the road above. And, it has to all be done during specific times when the roadworks will not cause danger to the archaeologists working in the tunnels below.
The project will open in 2019 and include a new Learning Centre for the Roman Baths, a hands-on investigation zone, where young people can learn more about archaeology, a free-to-visit World Heritage Visitor Centre and new areas of the Baths themselves.
For now, there’s a team of passional volunteers. I met up with R J Whitaker who told me that he’d been an archaeologist for 70 years (from the age of 14) and described some of the amazing work being done.
He pointed out areas of original Pompeii Red Roman plasterwork that had been painstakingly excavated and showed us how various Roman constructions had been reworked by later inhabitants, so that part of a door arch became a drain. We learnt that a new, large cold bath (4 m x 3 m) had been discovered. Mr Whitaker explained that they knew it was a cold bath as there was no red staining on the roman culvert.
We also learnt about some of the finds from the current excavation, including a pretty peacock design nail file, four coins and the largest piece of mosaic in the Baths to date, which was found just a few weeks previously by by local volunteer Fiona Medland, a member of the team of volunteers from the Bath & Camerton Archaeological Society (BACAS) that are helping archaeologists from Cotswold Archaeology to carry out the dig. Just 2 inches by 22 inches, it’s part of the threshold of a Roman room.
Once I’d taken a look at the Archway Project in action I went off for a short walk through Bath and lunch at Clayton’s Kitchen. I was pleasantly surprised by the delicious food there – a lovely light crab salad to start followed by a delicious dish of venison. It’s certainly somewhere I’ll go back to if I am visiting Bath Spa again whether on a day trip from London or, hopefully for a longer visit.
Back at the Roman Baths to take a look around the museum, I was stunned by the beauty of some of the artefacts on show.
Obviously, the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva which is perhaps the most famous object from the Roman Baths. It was discovered in 1727. As gilt bronze sculptures are rare finds from Roman Britain, it was a very early indication that the Roman settlement at Bath Spa was not a typical one. The head is probably from the cult statue of the goddess which stood in her Temple beside the Sacred Spring.
But, smaller objects like this beautiful gold broch, thought to be Irish.
And these ‘curse tablets’ – the personal curses of around 130 individuals inscribed on small sheets of lead or pewter, rolled up and thrown into the Spring at some point between the 2nd and 4th century AD. The spirit of the goddess Sulis Minerva was believed to rest in the spring and those who had suffered an injustice were appealing to her for vengeance.
After I’d had my fill of Ancient Rome, I went back to the Pump Room. Afternoon tea in full swing, if the costumes had been different I might have been stepping back in time to the days of Jane Austen. A piano trio on the stage surrounded by spring flowers and tables of diners enjoying a classic afternoon tea. Despite a reasonable walk back to the Roman Baths from Clayton’s Kitchen – and skipping dessert there deliberately – I really wasn’t hungry enough for a full afternoon tea.
The menu at the Pump Rooms though has a good range of options and I indulged in the Searcy’s Champagne Cream tea, which includes scones, a Scottish smoked salmon and cucumber pikelet with shallot creme fraiche, tea and a glass of fizz instead. It is definitely a good option if your appetite isn’t quite up to a full afternoon tea.
I’d forgotten how much I like this elegant city. Bath really is a short train journey from London and an excellent day trip to take. And where else can you move through time quite so seamlessly?
Next time I want to visit the new(ish) Thermae Bath Spa with it’s naturally heated rooftop pool and spend a bit more time exploring Bath Abbey. And, of course, to see how the Archway project is progressing – a project which will help make the unique Roman heritage at Bath Spa even more accessible.
For more about the Roman Baths at Bath Spa or the Archway project, check the website
The Pump Room serves food all day from 9 am to 4 pm including Morning Coffee and Breakfast, Lunch and Afternoon Tea
Thinking of visiting Bath Spa and the Roman Baths yourself? Why not pin this post for later. And if you have a little more time to spend, then here’s a great guide for a weekend in Bath.
Disclosure I was invited to visit the Roman Baths at Bath Spa and for afternoon tea at The Pump Room. All content is editorially given.
Bath is a wonderful place to visit, but I have never been to the baths
Bath is such a lovely place I’ve been 2x once on a school trip. 2nd for a wkd away beautiful place Need to go again.
that was very interesting to read,ive never heard of the archway project before,i’ll be adding the baths to my bucket list this summer
I’ve been to Bath twice now as an international tourist and it’s by far my favorite UK city, Such a quaint charm, and beautiful atmosphere, I love the architecture, the locals, the vibe, and of course, the baths! One of my favorite photos of myself and my husband is from the Roman baths, sitting down in front of a Roman pillar looking all loved up! So glad you finally got to the baths – it is very true that we often take the attractions in our own backyard for granted and don’t seem to have as much motivation for visiting them as we do for exploring far flung more exotic corners of the globe. The Archway Project sounds really interesting, and it’s incredible that they’ve achieved a plan for excavation despite the challenges the UNESCO status imposes. I’ll have to plan a visit for 2019 when they open. Thanks for the heads up!
I’ve always wanted to go there
I’m from the U.K. and have never made it to Bath, but after reading about your experience, I really wan to go. It sounds fascinating and museum looks really interesting. I can’t believe what they have found and that they built over it!
This project seem very interesting and I love your photography in the Roman baths. I look forward to the new updated baths in 2019 with the hands-on experiences and the new learning center! Great idea for a day trip from London!
It is true, you don’t appreciate what is on your doorstep – I’m from near Manchester and I’ve never been to Bath! It sounds fascinating though, I will try to go in 2019 when the new exhibit opens and take a look!
Fantastic history and stunning pictures! As my sister has recently moved to Chippenham, which isn’t far away, I hope to visit soon x
Such a very nice read! I really love the history of this bathing plafe of the romans long time ago. I really love all of the photos, it really portrayed a good good history about how romans lived and how they spend some relaxation time. I should visit Bath one time.
This makes me sad that I didn’t get myself into gear and visit Bath while I lived in London. Hindsight n’ all that. I would love to visit the baths and the Archway project. The idea of all that history just sitting under buildings and roads – imagine what else is under there yet to be discovered! The venison at Clayton’s Kitchen looks divine – appreciate a good dining tip!
I love reading your post which has given some great insights. I agree sometimes we miss things right next to us. I live in Delhi which has so much and I am yet to explore so many things. So, I can relate with your feelings. We also have many such water bodies like Roman baths in Delhi which is a part of our heritage though they are not so luxurious or five star worthy status. I would some day love to visit these baths and know more about them from the Museum.
What a stunning place just packed with history. Definitely one for the bucket list
I have not been to Bath for such a long time! I must go with my husband soon, I really like it there 🙂
What a wonderful day out, I love learning about the history of places, the architecture is beautiful xXx
Great pics! Lovely place if you like this period of history. Tweeted.
This is the second post this weekend that mentioned my favorite author Jane AND Northanger Abbey! What are the odds of that? The beauty and history of the baths at Bath really stand out. I love the pictures and how you described the experience. I have been to a public bath in Hungary and it looked exactly like that virtual reality film. Lots of ladies, lots of naked, but no one made a fuss about it.
I’d love to visit Bath someday.
I love history so much so of course I had to read this. I would love to tour this after it is complete. Really cool post and great pics. Thank you!
A lovely post. I can’t believe I’ve never been to Bath, especially when I love History so much. It’s most certainly on our ‘places to visit’ list and when we do I look forward to wandering around the Spa, it looks fascinating.
I love visiting Bath and always treat myself to a trip to the Thermae Spa including a soak in the rooftop pool. I enjoyed your post and will be visiting in June so will look up work on the project. A lovely reminder of a fab place.
I have yet to try the Thermae Spa! It’s definitely on my wish list.
I love Bath, but unbelievably I’ve never visited the actual Baths! Your post has made me want to get myself back down there!
LOL well, I have a few years on you – and I still don’t remember visiting the baths till this time!
I last went into the baths on a school trip fifty years ago. They’re on my list for my visit to Bath next month, so this is very timely.
Fascinating- Bath is definitely on my bucket list, and i’d Love to visit the Roman site up round Chester too.
Good to know what’s planned in future – for planning a potential visit ?
For those with kids, it’s going to be great – I think interactive archaeology is just such a fab idea!
We are about to go back to the UK for another trip to London and this article is on point! I didn’t really think of going to the Roman Baths because, being Italian, I sometimes tend to visit the Roman traces here, in my own country. And I loved that you included a bit of history, it’s what we are always looking for. You know that in Pompeii they also had similar baths? There’s still a calidarium and tepidarium to be visited, too!
Well, I haven’t written much about Georgian Bath, which is just as important. You should definitely visit. The architecture is some of the best in England – and that’s without the Roman Baths!
A curse tablet?? That’s one original object I’d never heard of! 🙂 Also the Pump Room looks like a place I’d love to have my tea at! Thanks for a great insight into Bath!
What an interesting post. Being from the US, I’ve heard the phrase “take the waters at Bath’ but didn’t fully understand what that meant. I am always intrigued when I find out one place was built over another. And find it fascinating that some of the material from the Roman times were used again in the Georgian times creating a UNESCO Catch 22 I suppose. And who doesn’t love a good curse?
Great post Fiona, I love historical pieces and finding things literally under your feet that say “You aren’t the first people to live here.” Ruins and relics of the past I find both haunting (writing perspective) and atmospheric. Who lived here, why did they build this, what did they do?
The engineering in Bath was fantastic too. Shows an advanced culture bordering on mass affluence and hedonism. To think it was built over and not rediscovered until quite late is extraordinary. I often wonder how much more undiscovered history lurks out of time beneath our cities.
Beth lsugh a special place. Had a ‘pre’hen weekend here once too. So lovely. The pump rooms are such a treat. The waters however? One sip. Enough! Like you said ☺
It was a great experience to take this virtual tour through the Bath Spas……enjoyed your post and those lovely pictures….
Living in Bristol, I always intend to visit bath but haven’t yet! I now really want to try out Claytons as that venison looks amazing! Will have to check it out.
Jas xx
Claytons was great – I eat out a lot in London and the food was a match for the best in the city at a sensible price!
I’d love to go to Bath. My mum went to university there. I should ask if she ever used the baths!
Hi Fiona, Bath is somewhere I’d love to visit soon. I love visiting place which bring history to life. Amazing to think something so complicated was built all these years ago. Great post and the food looks amazing ! Jill
We enjoy walking around this city and we will be returning near here this year. So fingers crossed we get to enjoy Bath again. Informative post and my most favourite dish Salmon!! 🙂
I didn’t know the Roman baths were uncovered only in the Victorian times. My younger son studies the Roman history this term, and we are going with his class on a tour of the Roman baths later this month (I accompany them as a volunteer). I’m very excited about it, as I’ve never been to Bath.
I didn’t know either Galina! I thought the baths were very well done. I do remember the days when you could swim in the Great Bath. It is lined with lead that was put there by the Romans!