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London Unattached - Mid-Life London Living

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You are here: Home / Travel / Europe / France / Sarlat – Perigord Noir, Dordogne France

Sarlat – Perigord Noir, Dordogne France

March 17, 2014 by Fiona Maclean 25 Comments

Last Updated on November 23, 2016

The Weekender – Vive la Difference – Sarlat, Dordogne:

Sarlat by Gaslight

I hesitated before accepting an invitation to visit Sarlat in the Dordogne for the Fest’ Oie.  Although I do sometimes eat Foie Gras, it always feels like a guilty secret – our cousins across the channel seem to have no such concerns.  More on the Festival and Geese later, this particular post aims to set the context for the Fest’Oie, a celebration of our feathered friends in the Perigord Noir.

Sarlat in the Rain

A medieval town just north of the Dordogne, Sarlat was the second beneficiary of a programme of major restoration in France in the 1960s.  Most of the old buildings were carefully renovated and restored under the ‘Loi Malraux’ – a policy introduced by Andre Malraux duing his time as Minister of Culture.  The result – a town centre that is a maze of narrow streets lined with stunning buildings and home to a vibrant markets festivals and events.

The historic Cathedral dates back to the twelfth century and was originally the roman church of a Benedictine abbey.  Through the centuries additions include the main cathedral walls started in 1505 but finished much later due to lack of funds, plague and wars .

Sarlat Cathedral 2

Near the Cathedral is a curious tower, the ‘Lantern of the Deceased’.  No one is sure exactly what the purpose of this building was – a funeral chapel seems most likely.  And the strange construction is hypothesised to have be built by the Crusaders on their return from the Holy Land.  Although it was built in around 1180, it really has little in design to link it to the Romanesque period – and to me it bore a strange and disturbing resemblance to London’s Gherkin!

Sarlat the lantern of the dead 3

Sarlat’s most famous resident was Etienne de La Boetie, a philosopher and friend of Montaigne.  His house is a landmark in Sarlat with superb bay windows built in the Italian Renaissance style.

Sarlat Central Etienne de la Boitie House

But, if in the early hours of the morning you might think time has passed this place, by 10am everything comes alive with market stalls and shops opening to cater for locals and visitors alike.


The people of Sarlat seem intent on bringing people to the pretty town; apart from the Fest’ Oie there are numerous other events throughout the year all celebrating in some way what makes this region special. A Truffle festival in January, a Film festival in November – and every other year the Ringuette – a celebration of historic games.  Like the Causses and the Cevennes this area was part of Occitania and the Felibree, a celebration of their Occitanian origins takes place on the first Sunday of July takes place in one of the towns of the department selected at random.

Sarlat Geese

There are plenty of things to do throughout the year outside the town too, charming villages, chateaux and the Lascaux caves to visit, canoeing, hiking and riding in the countryside and of course sampling the local produce.

Sarlat Statue_edited-1

There’s absolutely no sense of ‘Dordogneshire’ here.  At least not now, although Sarlat was heavily attacked during the 100 years war and was even under English rule briefly when, by the treaty of Brétigny, Edward III of England renounced his claim to the throne of France in exchange for the South West of France.  That lasted for just 10 years, until the English were chased from France.  The Wars of Religion continued to rage until the Edict of Nantes under the reign of Henry IV brought peace and much of Sarlat was rebuilt from the late 15th century onwards.  It is those buildings which now typify the town.

Sarlat Central Merchants house

Until recently travel to Sarlat from the UK involved a stop-over in Paris or a long journey by road.  Now, however, you can fly directly to Brive, around an hour from Sarlat by car.  That opens up parts of the Dordogne relatively untouched by the British invasion,  the Perigord Noir, a centre for foie gras, walnuts, chestnuts and truffles, is a gastronomic centre.  And, it is perhaps those uniquely French gastronomic specialities here that mean at the moment Sarlat and the Perigord Noir have retained a quintessentially French feeling.  If foie gras helps this part of France stay that way, then vive la difference.

Sarlat Etiennede La boutie House

For more information on Sarlat:
Email Katia Veyret: k.veyret@sarlat-tourisme.com
Sarlat Tourist Office

City Jet flies to Brive in the Dordogne from London City Airport:
The Brive Dordogne Valley Airport
19600 Nespouls
France

We stayed at Hotel le Renoir, a few minutes from the Town Centre

 

 

Filed Under: France, Travel Tagged With: Dordogne, Perigord Noir, Sarlat

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Selina says

    April 15, 2014 at 10:45 pm

    Looks lovely and just about right for a weekender 🙂
    Following you on Twitter – maybe see you there sometime!

    Reply
  2. Sarah, Maison Cupcake says

    April 3, 2014 at 4:28 pm

    I went here about ten years ago but only on a day trip from nearby Figeac. I loved the brass duck statues in the square and the market was wonderful. Pining for France now, not going again until May.

    Reply
  3. Dannii @ Hungry Healthy Happy says

    March 25, 2014 at 1:01 pm

    It looks like a beautiful place – I would love to visit.

    Reply
  4. Jess @UsedYorkCity says

    March 25, 2014 at 9:37 am

    This looks like the town from Le Mes! Very charming, and don’t worry, we won’t tell anyone about your secret love of foie gras;-)

    Reply
  5. Morgan @ Peaches, Please! says

    March 24, 2014 at 1:52 pm

    Sarlat looks beautiful. I love that you guys can just pop over to France for a visit. I can pop over to Alabama.

    Reply
  6. Louisa Foti says

    March 22, 2014 at 2:04 pm

    Great weekend away for you, and I secretly love foie gras too….though feel exceptionally guilty about it! What a pretty town Sarlat is.

    Reply
  7. Janie says

    March 20, 2014 at 5:35 pm

    What lovely architecture, so pretty.
    Janie x

    Reply
  8. Ren Behan says

    March 20, 2014 at 3:21 pm

    Love these medieval French towns!

    Reply
  9. Bintu @ Recipes From A Pantry says

    March 20, 2014 at 10:54 am

    Sounds like a lovely town. Maybe I can pass your post on to OH with a lot of hints……

    Reply
  10. Franglais kitchen, Nazima says

    March 20, 2014 at 9:21 am

    I have been to Sarlat a couple of times. Lovely town and region and great food! lovely pictures here making me want to head back there soon!

    Reply
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