Last Updated on February 24, 2022
Seafood in the City at Shutters, Canary Wharf
One Canada Square is one of the most iconic buildings in the Canary Wharf development. It now has a new Conran-designed ground floor where Shutters, a Southern Californian seafood restaurant that features fresh Cornish produce and seafood, has recently opened in one corner of the building. It’s an all-day kind of place serving brunch from 8 to 11 am, with dining from noon to 10 pm and home-cooked roasts on Sundays and we were delighted to have been asked to review.
There’s an upper-level cocktail bar called Cartel which majors in Mexican Artisan Mezcals and pure Tequilas. As well as an intriguing looking cocktail list featuring no alcohol options there is a decent wine and fizz offer and three gorgeous looking copper beer tanks, filled with fresh brews from Meantime.
When we arrive the space is buzzing with Bob Marley, Tom Robinson and the Monkees on the sound system creating a good-time vibe for the assembled city boys and girls. The feel is super-stylish, simultaneously airy and surprisingly intimate. The look is all about steel and marble with light wooden floors and chairs, and with grey and light brown leather banquettes and booths.
There is no situation that is not made better by a couple of cocktails. We tried the Rose’s Are, a blend of Rosé Tarquin’s Rhubarb and raspberry gin, rhubarb bitters, Pinot Grigio rosé, raspberry and rose Fevertree and lemon. It was deliciously easy-drinking with a hint of sweetness from its fruit and floral notes. The no-alcohol Coastal Walk was a mix of Pentire Seaweed Botanical, Fevertree lemon tonic, burnt rosemary and seaweed. It was suitably refreshing with the bitter lemon and herbal flavours to the fore.
To help mop up the cocktails we feasted on a moreish dish of crisp blue and yellow tortilla chips and crudités, with fresh guacamole adding a softer texture.
Our starters were both excellent with the fresh Cornish produce coming into its own. Smoked salmon ceviche combined the fish with avocado, soy, lime, ginger and chilli into a zingy, fresh-tasting salmon and avocado combo with just a hint of spice.
The Cornish crab on toast featured a mound of picked white crab meat on toasted sourdough with bags of flavour coming from the brown crabmeat mayonnaise and preserved lemon. It was covered with microgreens and made me wish I was on the coast!
Because a Thursday always calls for a celebration a couple of glasses of English Hindleap Classic Cuvée from Sussex were called for. With its apple and brioche notes, it’s a fizz that just asks to be drunk.
Sea bass came Chinese style, with the whole fish ‘crispy fried’ with sticky soy, ginger, chilli and bokchoi. It was exciting to have the whole fish on the plate with intense flavours not overwhelming the fish.
It’s always a privilege to eat a whole lobster; this one was steamed and grilled with Cartel’s own brand Mezcal, garlic and lime butter. The flesh was tender and succulent with a lovely flavour.
A side of tempura avocado was surprisingly good- crisp on the outside but not too hot inside. I ordered it out of curiosity as cooked avocado has never worked for me. But this was the best I have had.
Double baked garlic potato and fries were similarly well-executed.
The waitress forced a dessert on us – actually that’s a lie! A wonderful Chiffon Pie brought together a fresh-tasting lemon and lime mousse, with a crushed gingernut crust, meringue shards and a biscuit base. There goes the waistline…
Shutters seafood restaurant is a great place to go with friends or work colleagues for a working breakfast or lunch and an after-dinner chill-out. It has a friendly and unpretentious vibe with a food and drinks offer that is both interesting and fun.
One Canada Square,
London E14 5AB