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You are here: Home / Travel / Sri Lanka / Sri Lanka: Jungles, mountains, tea and elephants

Sri Lanka: Jungles, mountains, tea and elephants

September 18, 2016 by Sandy Cadiz Smith 16 Comments

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Last Updated on August 13, 2018

Esala Perahera and English Colonialism in Sri Lanka

As well as the bustling cities and sweeping beaches there’s a lot happening away from coastal Sri Lanka. You can go on safari, escape to the jungle, hike through mountains and tea plantations or celebrate the country’s bounty at a beautiful thanksgiving festival. There’s something to inspire all in Sri Lanka.

The Yala National Park was certainly a first for me, a jungle haven teaming with wildlife that also hugs the Indian Ocean and has beautiful beaches. Double value! This is leopard country with the world’s biggest concentration of these elusive creatures. Ironically the area was originally a hunting ground for the elite under British Rule. Now you’ll find 44 varieties of mammal (including elephants) and 215 bird species – fortunately, the only shooting you’ll witness these days is from keen photographers. The region was also affected by the tsunami of 2004 which killed 250 people yet intriguingly no animals. It seems their sixth sense steered them out of harm’s way.

Elephant in Sri Lanka

We stayed in the lovely Jetwing Yala just outside the park. Fabulous, spacious, luxury tented villas with two showers (indoor and outdoor – I don’t think I’ve ever been cleaner) in peaceful seclusion in the jungle. How I loved showering under the blue Sri Lankan sky. The huge terrace overlooked dense foliage with the stunning beach in the distance and I awoke at dawn to birdsong.

tent shower in Sri Lanka

From Yala, it’s a short drive to Saraii Village, one of the most eco-conscious lodges in Sri Lanka. A series of mud chalets and open tree houses are all built out of sustainable materials. A great way to get back to basics and experience some real local life. Like discovering the secret of making perfect buffalo curd the traditional way. This farmer has 50 buffalo which produce around 10,000 litres of milk a day which is prepared by heating it over a fire, stirring continuously. It’s then poured into clay dishes and left to cool a bit before the curd is added. It’s a deliciously tart concoction that’s eaten mainly as dessert with the local jaggery syrup to sweeten it up.

Buffalo Curd Sri Lanka

From buffalo curd to chena huts and delicious lunch prepared by local farmers. The huts are set in the fields providing shelter from which farmers can guard their crops – elephants are apparently the biggest threat. They’re also a great place to have a chilled-out lunch. We tucked into a wide range of rice, vegetable and fish dishes cooked by the farmer’s wife from local products – which we were surrounded by – fields of okra, tomatoes and chillies.

Local Cuisine Sri Lanka

It’s fair to say that by now I was feeling very at home in Sri Lanka. There’s such a warm welcome everywhere and nowhere more than at the Jetwing Kaduruketha. It’s in the peaceful village of Wellawaya, overlooking paddy fields and forests with a backdrop of majestic mountains. The chalets nestle around the extensive property with far-reaching views across working farms where you’ll spot rice being harvested and can wander through the peace of the fields and streams.

Wellaweya Sri Lanka

Meals are served in a central area overlooking the tempting pool. The a la carte breakfast menu offers an impressive selection of Sri Lankan and Western dishes. I tucked into their fabulous eggs Benedict which had an Eastern twist with the addition of curry leaves.

Eggs Benedict Sri Lanka Style

One of the best breakfasts ever, well it’s true that food tastes better with a view.

Pool Sri Lanka

From Wallawaya it’s time to go up…and up. We’re heading to the heights of Nurawa Eliya and the vast tea plantations. A precipitous journey with plenty of the usual Sri Lankan traffic exploits. I was constantly amazed at the weaving and overtaking as roadways expanded simply because of the volume of traffic to four or five lanes from their normal two – amazed because I never witnessed any accidents even with plenty of swerving to avoid monitor lizards crossing or dogs having naps in the road.

On our way up we stopped to view the stunning Ravana Ella Falls. It’s a truly lovely sight, tumbling down through rocks and trees from a height of 25 metres.

Ravena Ella Falls Sri Lanka

The Falls is a popular attraction, so be prepared for plenty of fellow explorers. Which also means ample eating opportunities with a range of food stalls set up on the roadside offering tasty local produce – freshly cooked on demand. Oh and watch out for the monkeys, too, they like nicking sunglasses (or food, obviously) and are always up for some general mischievous behaviour.

Roadside Street Vendors Sri Lanka

Nurawa Eliya is at an altitude of nearly 2,000 metres and is known as Little England as it was the favoured hill station of the hardworking English and Scottish pioneers of the Sri Lankan tea industry. There’s still a golf club, racecourse and plenty of Colonial hotels – and the weather’s even pretty British, too. It’s a breathtakingly beautiful region with mist swirling through the hills which are covered in carpets of greenness.

teapicker - Nurawa Eliya

You can smell the aroma of tea in the air. And the climate’s a real refresher after the heat of the lowlands.

tea terraces Nurawa Eliya

We stayed at the Blackpool Hotel (more of that British connection) a newish hotel offering the best of Sri Lankan service, beautiful large rooms and a selection of fabulous food.

From the land of tea, we started our descent to Kandy. The second largest city in Sri Lanka, it lies in the midst of hills and is the capital of the Central Province. It’s the home of The Temple of the Tooth Relic (Dalanda Maligawa), one of the most sacred places of worship in the Buddhist world. The temple houses the relic of the tooth of the buddha and is the starting point for the amazing annual festival of Esala Perahera. And as luck would have it our timing was perfect and we became part of an amazing ritual.

Kandy Esala Perahera

The streets reverberate with the buzz of 200,000 excited people anticipating a spectacular procession. It’s the chance to pay homage to the tooth relic, celebrate the country’s bounty and give blessing. The people from five temples dressed in vibrant colours give thanks with fire dances, whip-dances and myriad other cultural rituals and elephants adorned with lavish garments and decked in colourful lights as they parade through the streets.

Esala Perahera - Kandy

Esala Perahera - Kandy Sri Lanka

After the festival, which was amazingly easy to leave at the finish, despite the crowds – I’ve had a harder time getting out of Wembley Stadium – we travelled through the night to Elephant Bay. And awoke to sunshine and lots of elephants bathing in the river below.

Elephants in Sri Lanka

Elephants are highly revered in Sri Lanka and there’s been a huge cultural link between them and humans for over two thousand years. Which is why no religious procession is complete without its retinue of these magnificent creatures. And you’ll have plenty of opportunities to appreciate their dignity, power and surprising gentleness. They are a huge part of this country and a true reflection of its amazing people, too.

Address book

Here’s where we stayed along the way.

Jetwing Yala, Yala National Park

Jetwing Kaduruketha, Wallawaya

The Blackpool Hotel, Nurawa Eliya

Other useful information

Saraii Village organises a range of great excursions that I’d highly recommend. A chance to experience the real Sri Lanka saraiivillage.com

There are plenty more places to visit in Sri Lanka so do take time to explore what is on offer before you visit

I was a guest of the Sri Lankan Tourism Promotions Bureau on this trip.

I flew to Colombo on Emirates via Dubai. A seven-hour flight from London, a brief changeover in Dubai and then just under five hours before arriving in Colombo.

Thinking of travelling to Sri Lanka?  Why not pin this post for later

Sri Lanka

 

Filed Under: Sri Lanka, Travel Tagged With: Sri Lanka, tea

Comments

  1. Stevie says

    April 10, 2018 at 9:32 am

    That breakfast looks worth the trip alone.

    Reply
  2. Sheila Reeves @cakereev says

    March 24, 2018 at 9:42 pm

    Such an amazing sounding trip – so many differnet things to see and do

    Reply
  3. Tracey Peach says

    February 7, 2018 at 8:46 am

    Oh my gosh! what a beautiful place & the food looks fab too

    Reply
  4. Anita Hendrieka says

    November 10, 2016 at 11:49 am

    The food in Sri Lanka does really look incredible. And the fact there are wild elephants! My sort of place think. great article 🙂

    Reply
  5. Debra Schroeder says

    November 8, 2016 at 1:33 am

    Wow, hadn’t realized that you could see leopards and elephants in Sri Lanka. I visited Columbo this year but wasn’t able to get out of the city. Definitely want to go back and check out the Yala National Park and buffalo milk. 🙂

    Reply
  6. Mike says

    November 8, 2016 at 12:09 am

    I had no idea elephants were revered in Sri Lankan culture! That makes me want to visit even more. And those local dishes look delicious too!

    Reply
  7. John M. says

    November 7, 2016 at 9:52 am

    I have been hoping to visit Sri Lanka for quite some time. Airfare to/from there is quite reasonable. I have seen a few elephants gathered inside a zoo, but never so many in one place. I would love to watch their interaction with one another.

    Reply
  8. Mar Pages says

    November 7, 2016 at 7:48 am

    Ravana Ella Falls is such an unusual sight (for me)! Interesting details, loved hearing about the relationship between people and elephants, seeing how elephants are are threat to food crops yet are still loved and is a big part of them. Nature is so moving, such a lovely article!

    Reply
  9. Arzo Travels says

    November 6, 2016 at 10:31 am

    I keep hearing so many positive things about Srii Lanka. I would definitely love to visit. You did not mention the spicyness of the food, I think it can be too much to handle for people not being used to it 🙂

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      November 6, 2016 at 1:23 pm

      most of the hotels serve an international menu too. And there are things like egg hoppers which are not spicy at all unless you add chili sauce. It’s really up to you – but I agree if you eat an authentic Sri Lankan curry it will be spicy:0

      Reply
  10. Megan Jerrard says

    November 6, 2016 at 8:39 am

    Thanks for highlighting Sri Lanka – it’s funny how so many people instantly think of Africa when they envisage a safari, but Asia has many locations with just as amazing wildlife experiences, like Yala National Park. So glad you had a fabulous time and got to explore some of the beaches, waterfalls, and tea plantations 🙂

    Reply
  11. Punita Malhotra says

    November 6, 2016 at 6:41 am

    The herd of elephants is so beautiful. I have been wanting to go see elephants for a long time now, and you just reminded me of that plan again.

    Reply
  12. Christina says

    November 6, 2016 at 6:24 am

    Of all those places I’d have to say Nurawa Eliya is my favourite. It’s such a green and charming hill station, a throwback from the British era. Did you come across the flower boys running up the hill?

    Reply
  13. danik the explorer says

    November 5, 2016 at 9:23 pm

    The Yale National Park looks totally amazing. So cant wait to hit Sri Lanka one day

    Reply
  14. Rebecca says

    October 3, 2016 at 5:30 pm

    We’re going in February & definitely bookmarking for the upcountry stop offs!

    Reply
  15. Chrysoula says

    September 25, 2016 at 2:26 pm

    I would love to explore the Yala National Park it looks amazing. The view of the hotel’s swimming pool is great too. Such a nice place to stay.

    Reply

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