Last Updated on October 31, 2021
An enchanting menu inside an unlikely location
To rock up to a location and realise that just a few weeks previously, it would still be light outside and not pitch black darkness is a sure-fire way to create a little autumnal gloom but the perfect antidote is Beatriz Maldonado’s delightful South American menu at Supperclub.tube in Walthamstow. The emphasis being on the tube part this time as we are seated in a 1967 stock Victoria line tube train, parked just next to the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum. Being the same stock as the Bakerloo line uses now, it feels a little surreal to be climbing aboard, via the driver’s door, a tube car, in order to enjoy a substantial 5-course tasting menu. Once inside, it becomes clearer how the dining works. Berths have tables placed in between for small parties, there are removable seats and tables where the sliding doors are and at the end of the car, the bench seating has a long table in between for a larger party of guests. The space is lit softly with paraffin lamps and accompanied by an unintrusive playlist piped through speakers.
The diners hush as Beatriz (Bea, head chef) introduces herself. Hailing from Columbia and having worked in Argentina and Chile with a Brazilian sous chef, she explains that we will be trying food from across Central and South America. Already we have forgotten we are sitting in a tube car, despite the maps and other fittings all still adorning the walls.
After finishing off our introductory glasses of prosecco (a negroni was also available) we order a 2020 bottle of Grüner Veitliner, a very drinkable Austrian white from Majestic’s Definition range, a little sweet, with notes of quince and rhubarb. This pairs well with our first course, a Chichárron with salsa verde and a red cabbage slaw. The crispy pork skin, with flesh that melted in your mouth, is cut by the slightly spicy and well-balanced tomatillo salsa verde.
Our next course is a chewy sweet corn dumpling with smoky grilled corn salsa, served in a corn husk and sprinkled with queso fresco. This dish is yellow from all the corn and corn products… when an ingredient is sacred, as corn was for the Mayans, maybe that’s all you need. While every element was well executed, we could have done with some red and green ingredients to really show off the yellow corn.
After that was a real knock out dish, an Ecuadorian take on Ceviche with local hake, red onion and local tomatoes, perfectly sweet and ripe. Do be careful of bones though! This was all placed in a sour sauce that could be sopped up with the bread provided, a very satisfying dish.
Another favourite followed, tender beef brisket with a creamy celeriac puree, winter greens and carrots cooked to perfection. After the last few years, one may have considered that we were headed toward celeriac fatigue, but this dish and especially the pairing with the carrots proved that I, for one, am ready for more dishes featuring the root vegetable.
To cleanse our palettes before heading towards our main dessert, we enjoyed a crisp pineapple and coconut sorbet that inevitably tasted a little like Malibu while also being smooth and tropical.
We finished the evening with a Lulo Napoleon with amaretto cream. The Lulo, called Naranjilla in other parts of South America, is a relative of the tomato with orange flesh and green juice. We were served it in the form of a zingy gel alongside the light pastry and cream of the Napoleon resulting in a sophisticated and fulfilling end to our meal.
Fun and relaxed, this supper club is unique not only for its location but also for a thoroughly enjoyable South American inspired menu.
Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum
South Access Road
London E17 8AX
Looking for a different themed dining? We love Barge East in Hackney Wick