Last Updated on June 30, 2015 by Fiona Maclean
Lunugana, Geoffrey Bawa and Channa Daswatte:
For the first time my driver is confused. We’ve navigated Sri Lanka, travelling from Colombo to the North Central district, back down to the South East coast and, despite some precarious climbs and circuitous routes to enable me to see tea plantations and spice gardens along the way, we haven’t got lost once. But now he is unsure. He tells me that
The last time I took anyone here, they wouldn’t let them visit, I never could work out why.
As a result, I’m rather grumpy and unconvinced that I really want to visit. Especially as the clouds are gathering and it’s started to rain.
We stop while he asks for directions, before making our way along an impossibly narrow, overgrown and half made-up track. There’s a small parking area and a heavily bolted gateway. This is the main entrance to Geoffrey Bawa’s country house, Lunugana.
Despite a name that sounds like a hybrid from an AA Milne poem, Deshamanya Geoffrey Manning Bawa (1919 -2003) is one of the most influential Asian architects and the principle force behind ‘tropical modernism’. Sri Lanka is liberally scattered with his work, from schools and hotels to the Sri Lankan Parliament Building and the University of Ruhuna. It all began at Lunugana.
The death of his mother triggered a two year round the world trip for the young Bawa. He planned to buy an Italian villa, but when that fell through, he returned to Sri Lanka and instead bought an abandoned rubber estate. It was the challenges he faced trying to create an Italianate sanctuary in Sri Lanka that inspired his apprenticeship to architect HH Reid and subsequent formal training in England. Ten years later, he returned to Sri Lanka and took over the remains of Reid’s practise.
Lunugana continued to be a showcase for his work with buildings and gardens reflecting European style integrated with indigenous materials and crafts in an evolving renaissance of Sri Lankan culture. Bawa continued to develop Lunugana until 1998, when illness forced him to stop. Now owned by the Lunugana trust, the estate is open to the public and it is also possible to stay there or visit for dinner (by prior arrangement). It is a fascinating and tranquil place to explore. A guided tour of the gardens and some of the buildings shows the evolution of Bawa’s work from the heavily Italianate statues through to Tropical Modernism. And, travelling through Sri Lanka it’s impossible to escape the influence of his design concepts.
Arguably this should be the first place you visit when you arrive in Sri Lanka. Geoffrey Bawa is the father of Sri Lankan architecture and many of Sri Lanka’s buildings, both from this century and the last, are his own work or that of his students and followers. Staying at the Cinnamon Bey Hotel is a chance to get some understanding of the breadth of his influence. The hotel was designed by architect Channa Daswatte, one of Geoffrey Bawa’s students and associates.
Berewula was a trading centre for Sri Lanka with Middle Eastern traders and the hotel is a celebration of the influence of the Middle East on Sri Lanka. Modernist, yet with touches of Islamic design throughout, the hotel has Mashrabiya lattice work decorating the rooms, contrasting with the stark white walls, Chettinad tiled bathroom and contemporary soft furnishing. Every room has a wonderful sea view, the sandy beach is just a stone’s throw from the hotel. The spa is approached through a water garden reminiscent of Bawa’s own home and food is served in restaurants that range from ultra-modern Rock Salt with a fusion menu of seafood and meat dishes cooked on hot stone, to rooftop Mezz, an open air relaxed shisha bar and grill.
I was curious when I first arrived. I didn’t understand the context of the hotel in the culture of Sri Lanka and nor did I realise the influence of Geoffrey Bawa on Sri Lankan architecture. Visually stunning, but missing what I thought would be traditional styling, it wasn’t the beach resort I’d expected. After a visit to Lunugana, everything connected.
I was a guest of Cinnamon Hotels and stayed at the Cinnamon Bey Hotel, Beruwala
How informative, I hadn’t heard of Geoffrey Bawa but it’s very interesting to see how his work influenced architecture
This looks so nice! I’m mega jel right now!
Fabulous photos – looks great!
Whoa, Sri Lanka looks really beautiful!!!! I love the pics!
That is really cool, not sure I would have known about it if I didn’t read this. I have not made it to Sri Lanka yet but it seems everyone is going there now:) I love the look of the old architecture and worn rooms. How old are those buildings?
Most of it was built by Geoffrey Bawa – so mid to late 20th century – but deliberately styled as being older
I always love hearing about the history behind different architectural styles, I find it gives you a more complete sense of the area.
Oh gosh, I want to go to Sri Lanka so badly! Never heard of Mr. Bawa before but the place looks so grand.
Looks like it would be a beautiful and relaxing destination. I enjoyed learning about the history surrounding Geoffrey Bawa and the country house.
Looks like an intriguing place to check out! Very interesting.
This is so interesting, I’m off to Sri Lanka next month so loving learning more and more about this beautiful country
Have a great time! Do check out some of the other posts, I went in September 2014…
I love to stay at places with history–and what a cool one this hotel has! I’ve never heard of Bawa before this, but he sounds as if he had an incredible life!
This looks like an ideal place to visit and reflect, not only over the design concepts of Geoffrey Bawa but also in general. It would be interesting to see how many people knew about his influence before visiting, or in fact, even after visiting!
It was on my itinerary and I have to say I was quite reluctant…but SO glad I did go.
Looks like a great place to visit and relax in!
I would have loved to actually stay there, or even to visit for dinner! But I was on quite a tight schedule so that wasn’t possible
What a great place…. How cool that this was the lynchipin for your understanding of Sri Lankan architecture. I love the variety of influences in Tropical Modernism
It would be amazing to stay there…so grand. This is the first time I have heard of Mr Bawa.
wow what a beautiful looking place to visit , fantastic pics too
It looks like the most calm place to visit. Stunning and beautiful. I’d love to take a dip in the pool.