A Restaurant with a View in Wandsworth – View 94:
Wandsworth is not known as restaurant destination so I was excited to be asked along to review View 94 a Modern European Restaurant & Lounge with a terrific aspect onto the banks of the Thames. You’ll have to take my word for that as it was dark when I went! The Head Chef is the youthful Antonio Sanzone (ex-Caffe Caldesi) who has designed a seasonal and modern European menu with strong references to his Puglian roots. The ground-floor Lounge Bar has sexy white leather high chairs whilst the main lounge area is perfect for brunch, tea or ‘aperitivi’. The upstairs restaurant is more formal with natural stone, grey and light wood tones. You can even eat and drink right by the river on the jetty which is handily next to the Thames Clipper stop; but each of the spaces has great views of the houseboats, rowers and even the posh Hurlingham Club over on the other bank.But we were at the restaurant not to enjoy the pink and gold sunset over Putney Bridge but to try out some highlights from the à la carte autumn/winter menus. First up was the amuse bouche, a clever take on a classic fish and chips, with the ‘chips’ being a surprisingly light potato batter and a fluffy minty pea mousse on the side. We were drinking a selection of delicious wines from the almost entirely organic/biodynamic wine list selected by Maitre D’, Cristian Morini. Starters included a Beef tartare, served with cured egg yolk and flavoured only with delicious cep dust. But the showstopper was a dish of homemade smoked salmon, pickled Romanesco, a salad of fennel and oranges with a chilli dressing. The salmon arrived covered by a glass dome wreathed in smoke, the first time I’ve had salmon smoked before me at the table. The fish was really fresh and the smoke was more a subtle layering of flavour than a punch between the eyes. Other starters included a roasted cauliflower soup served with a bowl of savoury “muesli” which combined texture and flavour and a beautifully plated dish of cured venison, green apple, cranberry and hazelnut crumble with a wonderful black truffle dressing.The mains really showcased Antonio’s Italian roots. Lobster Moka risotto served with spring onion puree and spicy tomato coulis finished with shellfish cappuccino was delicately flavoured. His signature polenta soufflé and Reggiano sauce was very Northern Italian and was given a kick by the Puglian spicy sautéed tender broccoli stems finished with a balsamic glaze.My grilled turbot served on baked beans with leek consommé was a deliciously robust dish- a combination of Cucina Povera and the wonderful tasting fish. Braised Jacob’s ladder was rich and unctuous being served with bone marrow and “soffrito” fondant potato and squash puree. Desserts were stylish and well-executed. My fondant black forest, vanilla ice cream, sour cherry coulis was suitably melting with the classic cherry/choc combination hitting the spot. Other desserts include the Cappuccino: espresso cheesecake, coffee jelly, fiordilatte ice cream, Italian meringue, gluten free cantucci.But if you’re not keen on dessert there is a delicious plate of English cheeses available.
Alongside the à la carte there is a seasonal autumn Tasting Menu available at £55 for 5 courses and £95 with a wine pairing. With reasonably priced nosh considering the quality and great views of the river, View 94 really is the sort of all day place you would want to have in your neighbourhood.
Riverside Quarter Pier, Prospect Quay, 94 Point Pleasant, London SW18 1PP
Telephone Bookings: 020 8425 9870