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You are here: Home / Travel / Wines of Wallonia, Belgium

Wines of Wallonia, Belgium

October 26, 2017 by Fiona Maclean 17 Comments

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Last Updated on September 21, 2019 by Fiona Maclean

The Smallest Wine Producing Country in the World, Wallonia, Belgium:

The story of modern Belgium Wine production starts in France.  And, in the UK and Germany too.  Our first stop on the wine and gastronomy tour of Wallonia was at the vineyards of the charming and effervescent 80-year old Philippe Grafé who is, perhaps, at the heart of all Belgian Wine.

Domaine du Chenoy Wallonia Belgium Philipe Grafe

Having spent the first part of his adult life, until the age of 65 working at  Grafé Lecocq, where as Managing Director he was responsible for the import, storage and resale of some of the finest wine in the world he decided to reinstate a Wallonian tradition that had all but died out.  By the Middle Ages, wine was being produced in Wallonia along the banks of the River Meuse.  But, it was mostly for local consumption and the idea that Belgium could produce a quality wine worthy of the International market came, so Philippe said, from a visit to Camel Valley in Cornwall where he saw how the English had developed their own unique range of sparkling wines that could compete with Champagne on the International wine circuit.

Domaine du Chenoy Wallonia Belgium grapes close up

He did his own research and selected a range of grapes to use in Belgium that he believed would work well with the terroir.  Remember, this is a man whose entire adult life so far had been devoted to wine.  So, he might just have had a head start when he picked five different white grape varieties and one red grape to plant on the 10-acre winery he conceived in 2001, Domaine du Chenoy. The original white grapes – Bronner, Merzling, Helios Johanniter and Solaris and the original red grape variety, Regent are all German and mostly originated from a need to develop disease-resistant vines – the work of the grape breeding institute in Freiburg, Germany by Norbert Becker and others in the 1960s.  After planting 3 hectares of white grapes and 3 of red, he then went on to plant the remainder of the vineyard with four more grape varieties – Pinotin, Rondo, Cabertin and a table grape, Muscat Blue.

Domaine du Chenoy Wallonia Belgium Vines

The advantage of Domaine du Chenoy is that the vineyard is situated close to a river, the Ry d’Argent and on a gentle slope which is south facing.  It’s a microclimate which works well for the cultivation of grapes, although there are certain techniques used to ensure success – including a planting plan which allows plenty of space between the vines.  The soil is 70% limestone and 30% clay.  Grapes are picked by hand; Domaine du Chenoy is something of an institution and Philippe told us that people visit to take part in the harvest.  And then the wines are made – depending on what grapes are successful each year.  We tasted through the range with some local meats and cheeses.

Domaine du Chenoy Wallonia Belgium Cheeses 2

Philippe explained that production depends entirely on the climate in Wallonia each year.  In 2015, a good year, there was 100,000 litres of wine while 2016 was poor with just 13,000.  This year appears to have had a miraculous recovery from a late frost in April.

The sparkling wine is actually produced at the nearby Domaine du Ry d’Argent but it is clear Phillipe uses methods to create the finest possible results.  The 2014 sparkling wine, for example, was produced using the traditional method but had a 15-month second fermentation in bottle.  Using Johanniter (40%), Bronner (30%)  and Merzling (30%) the Perle de Wallonie is a lovely dry sparkling wine that benefits from a low dosage, just 3.5g of sugar.  It is quite delicious…

Domaine du Chenoy Wallonia Belgium

I enjoyed all of Phillipe’s wine – and loved his passion and enthusiasm.  A significant positive influence on the development of Belgian Wine we heard more about him as we travelled to the other vineyards on our tour.  And, two of the restaurants we visited also chose to serve us pairings of Domain du Chenoy wines.

Perle de Wallonia Domaine Du Chenoy tasting

On the first evening though, our hosts at La Fete au Palais picked the wines of Chateau Bon Baron – a vineyard we didn’t have a chance to visit but one where the grape varietals are a mixture of traditional French Grapes (pinot noir and chardonnay) and others.  I love regional wines paired with regional food and here we enjoyed a Quenelle of Pike followed by Salade Liegoise and pork fillet with mustard butter.

Wallonia Belgium La fete au palais

We also had a tasty little amuse bouche that had us all foxed until we learnt that it was a tiny petit gris vol au vent.  Across the table there were cries of ‘I ate a snail and liked it’.

Wallonia Belgium La Fete au Palais 2

Chateau de Bioul, our second vineyard, was another great example of Belgian entrepreneurial spirit.  It turns out that Vanessa Wyckmans-Vaxelaire was given the choice by her husband of him or a life on the stage (as a comedienne) and of course she picked him – and then, just because it seems like another perfect marriage, of Chateau and land this time,  they started to make wine.

Belgium Wallonia Chateau de Bioul

It’s now a family passion – on the way to organic certification and with a wine tour, tasting and restaurant opening in April 2018 for the public.

All in the glorious setting of the Chateau which dates back to the 11th century. After a rather chequered history, it was bought by Vanessa’s grandfather in 1906 – the founder of discount department stores in Belgium. He carried out extensive renovation but, by the time Vanessa inherited, the department store business was no more, so she and her husband needed a new way to generate an income.

Belgium Wallonia Chateau de Bioul Vanessa

It’s obvious when you meet Vanessa that she loves what she is doing.  Up on the hill at the top of the vineyard we looked down on rows of neatly planted vines puncutated by beehives to help with pollination.  She spoke enthusiastically about her wines.  Most depend on the same German grapes that Phillipe works with, but Vanessa also has a particularly delicious sparkling rose which is made from Pinotin and black Cabernet produced using traditional methods.

Belgium Wallonia Chateau de Bioul Vines

We went on to dine at Le Grill des Tanneurs – a restaurant in one of the boutique hotels in Namur.  There, our steak was ‘Boeuf Blanc Bleu Belge’ – a specialist breed famous for ‘double muscling’ – a characteristic that results in particularly tender meat.  Served with a sauce sambre et meuse (tomato and tarragon) it was my idea of a simple heaven.

Belgium Wallonia Les Tanneurs Namur Steak

Dinner in the evening was a more refined gastronomic affair.

Moma Wallonia Belgium Egg and Eel

Moma in Annevoie-Rouillon served us a four-course menu which included a slow cooked poached egg and smoked eel followed by Chicken Rousse de Lustin, from a farm in Wallonia that specialises in managing some heritage breeds on a free range basis to produce the ultimate result.

Wallonia Belgium Moma chicken

My companions finished their meal with the famous Wepion strawberries marinated in vervain with an olive oil sorbet.  But, since I have an allergy to strawberries I ate chocolate instead;)

Moma Wallonia Belgium Strawberries

At Domaine du Ry d’Argent the next day we found more evidence of the influence of Philippe on Belgian winemakers. Jean-François Baele dreamed of converting the family farm to a vineyard.  At the age of just 22 he started his dream working with Philippe, whose vineyard is next door.

Oak Barrels Domaine du Ry dArgent Wallonia

He planted a hectare of solaris grape vines in 2006. Now he has 7.5 hectares and a thriving wine cellar where he not only makes his own wine but also produces sparkling wines for Philippe.  While his techniques are modern, his enthusiasm is no less.

Wine Tasting Wallonia Domaine du Ry dArgent

Our tour of the vineyards of Belgium ended, as it should, with a meal.  This time at Les Vents d’Anges where we enjoyed pork with a fruity sauce made from Sirop de Liège.  And, more wines from Domaine du Chenoy.

Les Vents D'Anges Wallonia Pork

For me, this was a true insight into how things evolve due to chance.  Philippe starting winemaking at the age of 65 was perhaps fulfilling a lifelong dream.  Jean-François was his neighbour and was clearly under the spell of this charismatic oenophile.  The jigsaw is completed by Vanessa who inherited a Chateau – and so obviously, needed to make wine!

Wallonia Belgium Chateau de Bioul

Thinking of travelling to Wallonia?  Why not pin this post for later

Wines of Wallonia Belgium Gastronomy and Wine in Wallonia

I was a guest of The Wallonia Tourism Board.  For more information see their website

I travelled by Eurostar from London to Brussels.  Fares start at £29 one way and the journey takes just over two hours

 

Filed Under: Belgium, Travel Tagged With: Gastronomy, Wallonia, Wine Tasting, Wine Tourism

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Simone says

    November 3, 2018 at 8:29 am

    Thank you very much for this article. We live in Germany and visit the Wallonie regularly for hiking, dining and visiting old castles 😉 Lovely. We will be there between Christmas and new year this year and as we are also wine lovers this is so interesting – I am planning on tasting some of this Belgian wines. Even more interesting they use German grapes, as we love some of our German wines. But especially the Riesling 🙂

    Reply
  2. John says

    December 10, 2017 at 11:26 pm

    The best belgian wines http://Www.lesvinsbelges.be

    Reply
  3. Liza says

    November 29, 2017 at 1:49 pm

    Wallonia has been on my list for so long! Can’t wait to go there one day! Thanks for the post, it’s really useful. Bookmarked it for the day when I actually get tickets to Wallonia!

    Reply
  4. Sophie Harper says

    November 16, 2017 at 1:56 pm

    This destination looks right up my street.. I have visited Belgium once and had no idea they were such big wine makers! Great post xo

    Reply
  5. James says

    November 1, 2017 at 8:38 am

    When I think of Belgium, I normally think of its amazing beer. Thanks to your post that now got me curious about the types of wines they produce. I have to try and find it now!

    Reply
  6. Cat says

    November 1, 2017 at 3:44 am

    I didn’t know Belgium produces wine until reading this post! I would love to visit this region one day and do a tasting Domaine du Chenoy. Chateau de Bioul has such a beautiful setting. It would be a great place for a wedding reception!

    Reply
  7. Kerri says

    October 30, 2017 at 9:52 pm

    This is a fabulous way of looking at Belgium, outside of its popularity as a beer nation. These are the types of places I love to explore; more unknown and unusual. The personalised experience you got from Phillipe would be just what we would love and I would particularly love the dry sparklings from Domaine du Ry d’Argent. Amazing food to go with it as well – a quenelle of pike….very cutting edge.

    Reply
  8. Tracey Peach says

    October 30, 2017 at 1:10 pm

    This place looks amazing the food looks so delicious too

    Reply
  9. Aleah says

    October 30, 2017 at 5:20 am

    Domaine du Chenoy sounds like an interesting place to visit! It’s in good hands with Philipe given his long experience. Frankly though, when I was in Belgium, all I had were beer. I didn’t know it was a wine country. I love the Chateau de Bioul, though. What a lovely setting!

    Reply
  10. Thomas Mathys says

    October 29, 2017 at 11:29 am

    It’s refreshing to see for once wine in connection with Belgium and not beer (although I’m more of a beer lover). It kinda makes sense that this guy has chosen some German grapes as the grow in a similar climate. I’d love to try the combination of Belgian wine and cheese <3 Ohh, and I love the pictures of your dinner as well!

    Reply
  11. Rhonda Albom says

    October 29, 2017 at 5:51 am

    I didn’t even realise Belgium produced wine. That production variation is huge. And it’s great that outsiders can come in to help with the picking. Are there workers, or is it all volunteer picked?

    Reply
  12. Lucy says

    October 29, 2017 at 4:42 am

    After reading this I am now in the mood to eat and drink! Loved all your photos, especially of the delicious food. I didn’t know wine was made in Belgium, so I have learnt something new today. They make it in the region I from in England, but I will look out for wine made in Belgium, especially from this vineyard and maybe even take a trip there!

    Reply
  13. Jennifer says

    October 28, 2017 at 1:09 pm

    I had no idea that Belgium produces wine. I always think of beer when I think of Belgium, and now that you have me curious about the wines they are producing, I think a return trip might be in order. So it sounds like most of the wines are blends? Being that far north, I’d think colder weather varietals would do better so it makes sense that some of vineyards are planting German grape varietals.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      October 31, 2017 at 8:37 am

      I think it really helped that Phillipe knew the wine industry so well – he started from a point of view of understanding different regional requirements both in terms of temperature and rainfall. The new German varieties are mildew resistant too.

      Reply
  14. Anu says

    October 28, 2017 at 11:10 am

    Love the way you bring out how one man changed the wine scene in Wallonia. I am not a wine person, but I have enjoyed a couple of wine tours in Europe and one even in Thailand where they are growing their own New Latitude Wines.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      October 29, 2017 at 2:21 pm

      wow! I didn’t realise there was wine in Thailand too!

      Reply
  15. Tanvi says

    October 28, 2017 at 7:19 am

    I could feel all the passion this guy has for the wine especially because he has dedicated his entire adult life for this.. And who would have known that this place is quite a hidden gem. I’ll definitely visit here next time I go to Belgium. Also the food looks so yummy but their names are equally harder to pronounce. I can see that you’ve picked up all the information in such a detail. Great work!

    Reply

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