Last Updated on August 18, 2022
A good stop for food on London’s Bankside:
Having recently visited Penny Squares, The Canopy by London Hilton’s restaurant, I feared OXBO at The Hilton Bankside might merely be a carbon copy. Thankfully, both restaurants can keep their dignity (and uniqueness) intact, as OXBO is a cowboy to Penny Squares’s delicate damsel.
Please forgive the analogy, but there probably isn’t a better way to describe OXBO’s interior than ‘Western-ish’. Dark wooden floors are matched with grey art deco chairs, with black windowed structures supporting the restaurant’s centre, but the restaurant still manages to feel airy, thanks to large windows that illuminate its charm.
OXBO is refreshingly casual yet certainly doesn’t shy away from glimmers of decadence, which include, but are not limited to, a beautifully long wine list. We began with a glass each of Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie. Delightfully crisp with a slightly citrusy finish, it set us up for a great meal ahead.
We chose from the A La Carte Menu, which showcases the executive head chef Ollie Couillaud’s vision for OXBO’s dishes, possessing a myriad of influences from British, European and Middle-Eastern cuisine. OXBO plays homage to the wonderfully diverse Waterloo area, whilst also ensuring the sustainability of their ingredients, some of which are grown at The London Hilton’s own roof garden. Though the menu feels slightly incoherent, once the food arrives you probably won’t even notice.
Starting with the Sardines on Toast and the Warm Spring Vegetables, turned out to be a great choice for both of us. Grilled meaty sardines were popped on top of a large crispy hunk of bread, and topped with a crunchy and peppery salad. This was brought together by piped red pepper mousseline, which gave a subtle creamy sweetness to the dish, elevating it beautifully. It was rustic but undeniably tasty. Meanwhile, the more refined Warm Spring vegetables consisted of asparagus, peas, and carrots accompanied with a breadcrumbed egg and topped with shallots, chives and fig leaf. There’s nothing like a large plate of well-cooked veg, and this was exactly that, with a hint of vinegar and topped with truffle mayo, it is veggie heaven.
Moving on to the main course, we decided to try the Grilled Sirloin steak and the Piedmontese peppers. I ordered my steak cooked medium, as any more than that is ridiculous. Delicately seasoned and beautifully tender, it was served with a perfectly done spikey peppercorn sauce, some green leaves and chips. The Piedmontese peppers is the vegan main course on the OXBO A La Carte menu, served alongside coco beans, olives and capers. The peppers themselves were delicious, with their delicate sweetness well balanced by the salty olives. My veggie friend was less convinced by the vegan mozzarella (MozzaRizella) served with it, but said, fairly, that it was much better than some vegan substitutes. We polished both plates off greedily, whilst continuing to sip from our bottle of Pinot Grigio.
Now for the most exciting part – dessert!
OXBO’s dessert menu is undoubtedly the most interesting aspect of this restaurant. Everything from the Hazelnut Coffee Crunch with mascarpone to the Blackcurrant bavarois with sorbet sounded exceptional. We went for the Dark Chocolate Caramel Slice and the Lemongrass Crème Brûlée. The Dark Chocolate Slice was beautifully presented and completed with a chocolate swirl and gold leaf on top. Creamy and chocolatey, and balanced beautifully by a scoop of passionfruit sorbet, it was the undisputed highlight of my meal. The Lemongrass Crème Brûlée was equally as delicious, presented with edible flowers and ripe berries. and adorned with mini meringues. Though the lemongrass was very subtle, the Crème Brûlée was torched to perfection and beautifully light and creamy inside.
OXBO is a fine choice if you’re stuck for somewhere to eat in the Waterloo area. It’s rustic and slightly erratic, but possessing occasional glimmers of chic and good food, it is worth a visit.
OXBO:
Address:
Hilton London Bankside
2-8 Great Suffolk Street,
London, SE1 0UG,
United Kingdom
Telephone: 020 3667 5600
Website: https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/lonsbhi-hilton-london-bankside/
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