Last Updated on December 10, 2025
Luxury Indian dining with a difference
Colonel Saab is an enchanting contemporary Indian restaurant with an interior unlike any other. Situated in the heart of central London, it’s conveniently nestled between Holborn, Soho and Covent Garden, in a Grade II listed building which was once home to the Holborn Town Hall.
Colonel Saab has just celebrated its first birthday and we were invited along to review the tasting menu. Named after the proprietor Roop Partap Choudhary’s father, who served in the Indian Army, we had the pleasure of meeting Roop on our visit. We were privileged to be shown around his stunning restaurant and find out about its inspiration and the journey through lockdown before it finally opened in 2021.
The restaurant boasts a rich and vibrant interior, warm orange-painted walls and leather banquettes and a ceiling hung with a forest of 48 hand-blown ornate chandeliers. It’s packed with a trove of treasures and museum-worthy artworks which include portrait paintings, wall-hung plates, glass decanters, family photographs, antique bedsteads and temple doors turned into tables, all of which pay homage to India and Roop’s family. His parents Binny and Manbeer Choudhary were posted all over India during Manbeer’s (the “Colonel”) distinguished career in the Indian army, it was during this time they collected stories and antiques many of which turned out to be valuable collectors’ items.
As they travelled the breadth of the continent not only did the family accumulate an extraordinary collection of artefacts but they also experienced a wonderful variety of food and flavours. They dined at banquets hosted by Indian nobility and Maharajas, as well as enjoying traditional local lunches in the tents of Rajasthan and British-inspired Indian breakfasts in the Officer’s Mess. Before opening Colonel Saab, Roop spent a year retracing his father’s footsteps across India with Karen Anand, the renowned Indian food writer, television personality and restaurant consultant to curate the menu.
What has transpired is an exciting menu that offers a contemporary twist on classic and Indian dishes with regional specialities, many of which they acquired from people they met on their incredible journey.
Colonel Saab‘s Executive Chef Sohan Bhandari began his career learning from his mother in the family kitchen, going on to establish a career in India, cooking Modern Indian food and winning multiple awards. He journeyed to the Middle East before joining Roop and his team at Colonel Saab where he combines his skills and brings a touch of fusion to his exotic flavours.
On the night of our visit, the restaurant was buzzing with a happy crowd and classic jazz was playing on the stereo. We sat in the main dining area and took in the glorious décor and browsed the menu, which offers signature cocktails by Mixologist, Anthony Bertin (Castel Brac Hotel). We started with two cocktails. Corpse Reviver N.2 was an elegant tipple straight from the 30s with citrus and cherry notes bite of absinthe. The Punchu was a sweet and fruity cocktail with a vermouth twist.
We were offered the chance to sample the six-course tasting menu, with several different options to suit meat eaters, pescatarians and vegetarians.
Our meal started with Mall Road’s Dahi Sev Puri, dainty crunchy globes of delicious tangy pleasure to whet our appetites.
We accompanied our meal with a bottle of Le Bosq Blanc, Vin de France, dry and acidic with citrus and green apple notes (there is also a drinks pairing option available).
My companion’s Kandhari Paneer was enviable; grilled cottage cheese with a firm texture stuffed with prunes with a smudge of mildly spiced pomegranate in tomato salsa with deep rich flavours. However, my Anglo Indian Chicken Chop was equally good. Nothing like a chop at all but more like a soft and succulent croquette filled with beautiful Madras spiced pulled chicken and served with salad and a mild tomato and raisin relish.
With a side of crisp fresh Poppadum with rich tomato and mango and sweet succulent pineapple chutney, it was very moreish!
We cleansed our palette with a refreshing cool mango sorbet before moving on to the mains. My Sunday Lamb Curry, was a tremendous dish, brimming with rich, warm and spicy slow-cooked lamb, served with cumin potatoes and fluffy steamed rice.
The Sarsoi Ajwaini Fish Tikka was elegantly presented and had gorgeous mustard flavours with sweet-sour salsa and perfectly cooked basmati herb rice.
And finally, for something sweet, a lovely light Raspberry Tart with coconut foam and delicious passion fruit balls and some soft and doughy Malpua Waffles, laced with fresh berries, ice cream, pistachio slivers and sprinkled rose petals.
This luxury restaurant is a great discovery, it’s visually unique and serves fabulous authentic contemporary Indian food, which together creates an elaborate and rather special dining experience. It has already been named one of the top Indian restaurants by Forbes, winning Best Restaurant in Feed the Lion awards.
I highly recommend a visit, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a romantic night out or a festive get together and in addition to the bar and main dining room, there are two beautifully designed private dining rooms which can accommodate up to 40 people, ideal for a celebration or corporate dining event.
193-197 High Holborn, London WC1V 7BD
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