Last Updated on October 22, 2024
French-inspired restaurant serving brasserie classics
RAILS Restaurant and Little Bar is an appropriately named restaurant located just across the road from St Pancras International station. It is tempting to hop on a train to Paris after lunch, but for those without a ticket, RAILS provides a taste of France without getting out your passport. Part of the Great Northern Hotel – and formerly known as Plum + Spilt Milk – RAILS is both a restaurant and, as the name suggests, has a lovely bar attached where you could easily while away the hours dreaming of travel.
We blew in from the Northern Line on a very windy evening, much in need of cosseting from the January blues and unpleasant weather. Up a flight of stairs, RAILS is an elegant room plus bar that immediately put us at ease. The friendly staff plus the convivial atmosphere – well-spaced tables and lots of happy chatter filled the room – suggested a relaxing evening ahead. The well-proportioned room has large sash windows on three sides which must provide fabulous light during the day. In the evening it is illuminated with a set of lovely, contemporary chandeliers. Dark grey walls and ceiling contrast with wooden shutters and floors. Leather banquettes line the walls and marble-topped tables – some oval, some square – fill the room. Original artwork on the walls provides a boost of colour to this contemporary yet traditional space.
One could sit in the welcoming bijoux bar but we chose to order an aperitif at our table. There was a good list of cocktails, mocktails, and sparkling wines. While we perused the menu, I sipped a Walnut Kir Royale – a twist on the famous cocktail with walnut bitters balancing the sweetness of the crème de cassis. My partner tried the Bramble – Citadelle gin, Lemon, crème de mure liqueur.
The RAILS menu is short and filled with French bistro favourites. The dishes are mainly meat although there are a few fish options, two vegetarian and one vegan starter, and one vegan main course. The meal got off to a satisfying beginning from the starter menu. I chose smoked Chalkstream trout and kohlrabi salad. This colourful dish had a generous serving of fish – lightly smoked and delicious – and was topped with a fresh, crunchy, lightly dressed kohlrabi salad. There was enough fish to share a portion, yet I managed it on my own.
My partner enjoyed his baked St Marcellin with truffle honey. A dish of baked cheese, toast, a small pot of truffle honey and a garnish of green leaf salad sounds just right for cheese lovers, especially a St Marcellin which has depth of flavour and a silky texture.
From the impressive wine list – strong on French wines as one would expect but with an international representation too – I enjoyed a glass of Albariño ‘Sentidino’ Rías Baixas, Bodegas Gallegas, Galicia, 2021, This was a lovely pairing with a grilled lemon sole served with hollandaise sauce. The side dish of French beans was served with shallots and was very good. My partner – the carnivore of the duo – ordered a ribeye – a 28-day dry-aged, grass-fed and Queen-certified steak. To be honest, I wasn’t sure what a Queen-certified steak is but this one was cooked to order and served with a side dish of crunchy fries.
Desserts were a highlight of the meal. Any French bistro or brasserie worth its salt serves île flottante and chocolate fondant as well as tarte tatin. All three were on the menu at RAILS as well as cheese from La Fromagerie so it was not an easy choice. We settled for the first two and both were just as they should be. The île flottante was light as gossamer, the meringue floating in its pool of crème anglaise and topped with lightly toasted, flaked almonds. Not too sweet, and the texture was perfect. It is a great dessert to end a French dinner. The chocolate fondant was served with a quenelle of vanilla cream and divulged its molten chocolate as the spoon broke it open. Another favourite dessert for Francophiles. An espresso and a mint tea were served with tiny madeleines, a lovely touch to end the meal.
Over the past decade or two, the area surrounding King’s Cross and St Pancras stations has been utterly transformed. Now bursting with a plethora of restaurants, the choice for Londoners and visitors alike is enormous. RAILS is situated in a hotel with a long history of hospitality and is perfectly placed to welcome travellers as well as locals looking for a good meal with a nod to France just a train ride away. As we descended into the underground after dinner, I rather wished we had tickets for the late train to Paris. Our dinner at RAILS had certainly put us in the mood.
RAILS Restaurant and Little Bar
1st Floor Great Northern Hotel
King’s Cross St Pancras International
Pancras Road, London N1C 4TB
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