Last Updated on March 2, 2024
Fabulous Fusion Food in Colindale
I’ve travelled to Paris and back for the sake of a good lunch many times and even as far as Oslo, so why not Colindale for dinner? I have to confess that I didn’t know anything about Colindale which sits on the Edgware branch of the Northern Line just a few stops north of Hampstead and 25 minutes from Tottenham Court Road. Apparently, the area has a long connection with the RAF as well as a training centre for the Metropolitan Police, the Oriental City shopping centre and the British Library Newspaper Library. But I wasn’t coming to jump in a plane, get trained to be a copper, shop for south-east Asian produce or do some research. No, I had been invited to review JM Oriental, a Chinese fine dining restaurant with a ‘focus on dim sum from Hong Kong’ created in 2021 by founder and executive chef, Andrew Hung that in 2022 won a Golden Chopsticks Award for ‘Best Fusion Restaurant’.
JM Oriental is part of a rather posh new development that feels more like Berlin or Amsterdam than London and for those of you travelling across town the underground station is close at hand and there is even parking outside.
It has a stylish, contemporary interior with sexy lighting, dark wood flooring, light wood dividers and comfy oat-coloured vinyl seating and banquettes. There is also a semi-private dining area suitable for 10 guests.
With such a cool interior, cocktails were definitely necessary. There is an intriguing selection, fitting neatly into the restaurant’s ‘fusion’ concept bringing together elements from the east and western hemispheres. The Macau Love Story, a blend of lychee puree and liqueur, vodka, and then topped with prosecco, was light and refreshing with just enough vodka kick. The Reformed P0rn* Martini was beautifully balanced, again vodka-based, bringing together the sweetness of passion fruit puree and the acidity of lime with more prosecco fizz; there was even an added prosecco shot on the side!
I rarely comment on place settings but I loved the brass cutlery and 50’s inspired placemats.
From the salad and starter menu, we tried the vegetable lettuce wrap with pinenuts. A mirepoix of lightly cooked super-fresh vegetables mixed with the pinenuts sat in a crisp lettuce leaf for a light and healthy option that also delivered on flavour and texture.
A gorgeous layered sesame prawn toast arrived in the shape of a whale-shaped, stuffed with prawns, piping hot and crispy on the outside – just this dish was worth the trip to Colindale.
The restaurant has a great reputation for its Dim Sum, with its own section on the menu. We picked the artisan Dim sSum assortment which included har-gau, prawn and chive, scallop and beetroot, spicy vegetables and a gorgeous mushroom one. The wrappers were not too glutinous and flavours were delicate and delicious.
Before embarking on our main dishes it was time for more cocktails -when isn’t it? The Oriental Whisper was a mix of Goddess of Mercy tea infused Beefeater gin, with jasmine tea and honey syrup. It was very much like a Thai iced tea with a gin base and had a pungency that might not be for everyone! The Lychee Martini was much more accessible, a sweet tropical assemblage of muddled lychee, vodka, lychee puree and lychee liqueur. Frankly, it was far too easy to drink!
From the Signature Mains section of the menu, we tried the steamed Chilean sea bass. A beautifully cooked alabaster-white piece of fish came with a subtly perfumed yellow bean, garlic, soya and pine nuts sauce. This was a great dish. We also had the chance to preview a dish from the upcoming new menu.
Deep-fried PiPa Beancurd was unlike any tofu dish I have before with a light and fluffy texture and a mushroom and truffle sauce infused with rich, deep umami flavours.
A side dish of stir-fried ramen was elevated into a more deluxe realm with oriental mushrooms and truffle paste.
My dining companion is a big fan of Morning Glory, the Thai green vegetable leaf. A big plateful arrived steaming hot, crisp and vegetal.
Steamed egg custard lava bao was an unusual dessert choice for a Western palate but an interesting one. The dumpling was like a soft pillow, coloured grey with charcoal with a gold leaf accent. The interior was a steamed salted egg giving the dessert a savoury sweet flavour.
There is something exciting and innovative happening in Colindale at JM Oriental. I was very impressed with the quality of the food, service and interior. It’s worth the short trip and if you are a local you should definitely check it out. I’ll be returning to try out all the new dishes!
28 Heritage Avenue,
Beaufort Park,
Colindale,
London NW9 5GE
Tel: 020 8912 6215
Looking for something in Central London? We also recommend The Duck and Rice in Soho
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