Last Updated on April 11, 2023
Chinese in a Casino? Chop Chop is worth a punt!
Since lockdown ended, my impression is that London has become less of a late-night city. So, when I heard about Chop Chop, a new casual dining Chinese restaurant that sits in The Hippodrome in Leicester Square that opens from 6 pm to 4 am – I knew I had to check it out. The late-night Chinese joints in Chinatown’s Gerard and Lisle streets are legendary but it’s time to try somewhere new.
Chop Chop focuses on Cantonese cuisine and is part of The Four Seasons group which has eight restaurants across London and the Midlands. To access the restaurant, you have to cross the Hippodrome’s gaming floor, full of excited punters on slot machines gathered around roulette wheels and baccarat tables. You then descend into the basement with fascinating staircase displays giving a sense of The Hippodrome’s illustrious showbiz history. The interiors have been styled by designer Rachel O’Tooke and evoke the spirit of old Hong Kong.
With jade-coloured floors and walls, there are attractive booths lit by neon art, art-deco style cane light fittings, high banquettes and Chinese-style dividers all adding to the atmosphere. There is a comprehensive menu and drinks offer, but it felt important to start the evening with an exploration of the cocktail list.
The chilli martini had a definite kick; it’s a blend of chilli vodka, mandarin napoleon, passion fruit puree and the tropical sweetness of passion fruit juice. For a contrasting experience try the lychee cooler; a mix of vodka, lychee juice, and fresh lime juice, topped up with soda water, it was light, refreshing and not too sweet.
The Four Seasons group’s crispy duck has been described as being the best in the world by the Financial Times. Chop Chop can do individual portions of their Aromatic Crispy Duck, served with paper-thin pancakes, slivers of spring onion and cucumber and hoisin sauce.
We enjoyed the culinary theatre of our waiter stylishly shredding the meat at the table. The duck was crisp but moist, salty, not fatty and very moreish. The best in the world? Who knows! But definitely a fantastic plate of food.
The menu has a small but perfectly formed dim sum menu. I ordered a Steamed Mixed Platter with a basket of deliciously pert little dumplings arriving hot and fresh from the steamer. The dumplings weren’t at all glutinous and I loved the plump Har-Gau Prawn Dumplings, the more vegetal Prawn and Chive Dumplings and the umami richness of the Shitake Mushroom and Water Chestnut Dumplings.
We moved on to the well-rounded apple and citrus notes of the Jose Ignacio Albariño from Uruguay; it was a great match with my mains of Lobster with Ginger and Spring Onions. The lobster was juicy and full of flavour, lubricated by ginger sauce.
Barbecued pork Char Siu, a Chop Chop signature dish, was dry and crisp, intensely flavoured with soy, spices and sugar. Perfect for serious barbecue fans.
A side dish of Morning Glory was crunchy and garlicky and a satisfying plate of Stir-fried Mixed Vegetable Rice was straightforward and tasty.
I love fun desserts and a sweetened condensed milk White Rabbit ice cream stick was a perfect way to finish the meal. Whether you’re out with friends or working in the nighttime economy as I do, it’s great to have another late-night option and especially one with such charming service. But Chop Chop is also perfect for a pre-theatre or post-work bite so take advantage!
Chop Chop
The Hippodrome Casino,
Cranbourn Street,
Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH
You can’t beat the food offerings at the Hippodrome for convenience – and those we’ve tried have been good quality too; check the Heliot Steak House and CrêpeAffaire for a couple of other options
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