Last Updated on January 17, 2024
Argentinian Patagonia – A glacial experience
Argentinian Patagonia has it all: snow-capped mountains, lakes and rushing rivers, jaw-dropping hikes and, its pièce de résistance: glaciers. Lots of glaciers. I had never seen a glacier before travelling to Patagonia. It is an experience worth travelling for.
My first experience with glaciers in Argentinian Patagonia was the Perito Moreno glacier in the small town of El Calafate. El Calafate has an airport that connects to various cities across Argentina (three hours from Buenos Aires), or it can be accessed via bus. Most tourists come to El Calafate for the Perito Moreno glacier.
My tour of the glacier was organised by Tiempo Libre, who picked me up at my hostel in a group bus and drove us to Los Glaciares National Park. There is an entrance fee of approximately $12 for the park. We were provided with information in Spanish and English about the glacier on our way to the first viewing point.
The first viewing point gives a glimpse of the vastness of Perito Moreno. It is one of 48 glaciers that make up the South Patagonian ice field, and stretches 250km^2. It is an undulating icy mass of ridges, pools and peaks, unlike any landscape I had seen before.
The bus then took us to the viewing balconies. There are countless viewing points across the balconies, which are easily walkable. We had two hours to walk around and see the glacier from different heights and angles. There is also a cafeteria to get a drink and a bite to eat. If you’re lucky, you can see a block of ice break off the glacier and crash into the water.
We were then given the option to take a boat to see the glacier from water-level. One is taken within a few hundred metres of the wall. It costs an extra $30, but I would highly recommend the experience. The height of the glacier – over 70m above the lake – can only be fully appreciated from the boat.
After the boat, I was dropped back at my hostel. The whole trip lasted from 7.30am until 3.30pm, to account for some lengthy periods of driving. Trips are also available in the afternoon to evening. Our guide organised everything and was clear in her instructions, allowing us to enjoy the glacier without any inconvenience.
Many tourists see the Perito Moreno glacier and then leave El Calafate. I would say that even for that one sight, El Calafate is worth a visit. However, others want to maximise the opportunity of being in the home of glaciers to see a few more. This opportunity is provided by the Navigacion Sunset cruise organised by Solo Patagonia. The cruise takes passengers to three glaciers: Glacier Heim Sur, Glacier Peineta, and Glacier Spegazzini. The latter towers even higher than Perito Moreno, at around 135m above the water.
I was picked up at my hostel by a group bus at 11.30am, and returned around 8pm. Once again, one must pay entry to the park. After entering the park, we boarded the boat and took our seats. Our guide, Lucas, was informative and friendly, describing all the major sights we saw along the way. The boat ride was smooth.
Standing on the deck while the boat is moving, it is cold and windy, but it is well worth spending as much time there as possible in order to take in the magnificent views. The lake is bordered by tall mountains, and the boat drives past sculptural icebergs along the way. The water is a stunning blue colour. I had hundreds of pictures by the end of the trip.
Our first stop was at the restaurant at the Speggazini Shelter, surrounded by snowy mountains and with a glorious view of Glacier Speggazini, which starts on the water and dramatically climbs up the mountain. The restaurant is a modern building on the shore of the lake. For an extra fee, shipmates can be part of the exclusive Captain’s Club, allowing access to the top deck of the boat, and to a dining room and balcony in the restaurant with spectacular views. I can safely say I will never enjoy a guanaco goulash surrounded by such beauty again. Perhaps more impressively, I may never again drink a glass of wine in such a magnificent location.
The food – guanaco goulash for me – was tasty and served in big portions. It was followed by a white and milk chocolate mousse. I took my glass of red wine onto the balcony and basked in the sun and the spectacle of the glacier. One can buy food and drink at the restaurant, reserve food in advance, or one can bring a packed lunch.
After lunch, the boat took us to within a few hundred metres of Glacier Speggazini, giving us the chance to appreciate its size and take photos. There is a professional photography service available on board for an added fee.
The other glaciers are also impressive, despite not being as enormous. Another highlight is a visit to a couple of picturesque icebergs. Time is given to stand on the deck and admire the big slabs of ice, and the crew even fishes for little chunks of ice in the lake for passengers to hold. They are perfectly clear, and are later broken into ice cubes to enjoy with whisky or another drink of your choice.
This trip is a whole day out, after which you will feel like you have fully enjoyed the beauty of Argentinian Patagonia’s glaciers. While sunset is too late to enjoy while on the cruise, the late afternoon provides a soft lighting as the boat ends its journey passing through green hills and striped rock. I was dropped at my hostel, aware of having had a rare experience.
Argentinian Patagonia offers much more than glaciers, too. A four-hour bus ride away from El Calafate is the picturesque, one-horse town of El Chalten. The town is in a stunning location: surrounded on all sides by mountains and with the iconic Mount Fitzroy only a day hike away.
While in El Chalten, I had the chance to experience white water rafting organised by Comarka Expediciones. I had never rafted before, but the team made it easy and enjoyable. I met the group at their base in town, and we were given all the clothes we needed (bring your own towel, though). Our group of eight was then driven to the river entrance, and we were taken through all the necessary safety measures. Throughout the trip, we were accompanied by Martín, who was responsible and funny in equal measure, giving us all the necessary commands in both English and Spanish.
Our group varied in age from 20s to 60s. No special physical ability is required. If you would enjoy a bumpy ride through the mountains on a fast-flowing river, with condors flying overhead and some icy splashes every now and then, then this is for you. I had a blast. In a region known for its mountain hikes and steep climbs, some river-level adrenaline provides some welcome variation to a trip to El Chalten.
This is just a fraction of the opportunities available to a visitor to Argentinian Patagonia. They are three highlights from my trip: eye-widening experiences that make the visit worthwhile. I will not forget the blue, icy glow of the sun shining through the cracks in the glacier any time soon.
Tiempo Libre tour of Perito Moreno: approximately $47
Solo Patagonia Navegacion Sunset: approximately $186
Comarka Expediciónes white water rafting: approximately $70
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