Last Updated on July 20, 2025
A Covent Garden Indian Summer at The Yards
4.0 out of 5.0 stars
I regularly zip down St Martin’s Lane in Covent Garden. I might be seeing a play at one of the many theatres in the neighbourhood, catching some opera at the ENO’s Coliseum Theatre or getting a bite to eat at somewhere like Dishoom.
Five years ago, I became aware of a new ‘quartier’ of London that had opened up, smartly signed and entered from an alley on St Martin’s Lane itself. Linking St Martin’s Courtyard, Mercer Walk and Old Brewer’s Yard, The Yards is a bespoke blend of independent boutiques, big brands, al fresco dining, and wellness experiences. The emphasis is on leisurely browsing, and every restaurant offers the opportunity to sit outside, so it’s a perfect space to find an urban retreat on long, hot summer days.
For fashionistas, there is Lululemon, Whistles, Swarovski, Barbour, The White Company and Hobbs. If it’s a lifestyle you’re after, then Yogarise, the premium nail salon Townhouse, the legendary Pineapple Dance Studios, top hair salon Patrizia Manias, or the collaborative spaces at The Conduit may appeal. There are over 20 places to eat and drink, including favourites such as Luci, Ukiyo, L’Eto, Oriole, Lahpet, Bill’s Restaurant & Bar, Hawksmoor, Le Bab, Temper and many more. But the best thing to do is to go down there and have a look for yourself.
I had been asked to review Dishoom, the premier British chain of Indian restaurants founded in 2010, serving ‘Indian comfort food.’ Modelled on the Irani cafés that were such a staple of Mumbai life in the 1950s and 60s, the group is expanding with outlets in Kensington, Covent Garden, Shoreditch, Canary Wharf, Manchester, King’s Cross, Edinburgh, Carnaby, Birmingham and Battersea. Irani cafés were started by Zoroastrian Iranian immigrants to India, and Irani chai (tea) was particularly fashionable.
The St Martin’s Lane Dishoom restaurant is famous for its queues, which on closer inspection are well-managed and fast-moving. The interiors take us into a glamorous celluloid adventure, celebrating the world of the early Indian musical film dramas. There are photos on the wall that evoke the golden age of the film industry. Ceiling fans keep you cool, and potted greenery evokes the subcontinent, as do the marble tabletops, wooden panels, and rattan.
Dishoom is an all-day dining establishment offering meals ranging from Bacon Naan Rolls, Akuri, and The Big Bombay breakfasts to late dinners. There’s a comprehensive drinks menu, including a teetotal option, a wide selection of Chai options, and some enticing-sounding cocktails. We started with a couple of drinks. The Dishoom Margarita is a blend of Tequila el Jimador with lime juice, shaken with clarified tamarind and a sprinkle of magic dust on one half of the rim. It has more depth of flavour than a normal Margarita with a sweet-sour tamarind note and a light kick. Fresh Nimbu soda is an Indian staple.
Lemon soda blended with salt and sugar delivers its trademark refreshing zing.
We chose two small plates as starters. Fish Amritsari is a Punjabi dish. Think spicy-battered fish goujons piping hot from the fryer with a vegetal green chutney. Delicious!
Dishoom House Chaat was a dish of contrasts. Warm cubes of fried sweet potato came slathered with cool yoghurt, pomegranate, beetroot, radish and carrot, creating a crispy, creamy crunch. A tamarind drizzle and herbal green chutney lifted it nicely. It was very moreish and made me need another drink.
The New Permit Room Old-Fashioned uses coconut-washed Woodford Reserve Bourbon rather than whisky and gets its sweetness from dark raisiny Pedro Ximénez Sherry and Medjool-date liqueur. Beautifully blended, it slipped down far too easily.
Passion Fruit Sharbat was a long and intense passionfruit fizz with lime and coriander adding flavour value.
Our main dish of the Dishoom Chicken Tikka, originally a family recipe, had the flesh marinated in sweet vinegar, ginger, turmeric, garlic and green chilli. The meat was tender and the powerful flavour incorporated a serious chilli burn!
The second main dish we ordered was a standout. Prawn Pathia featured meaty prawns marinated in ginger, garlic and lime in a tangy grilled tomato masala that had a deep tomato flavour. The accompanying soft, stretched-out Roomali roti was necessary to scoop up every last drop.
A side order of the House Black Daal, a Dishoom signature dish was rich, creamy and satisfying with an intense long flavour.Garlic Naan with a minced garlic and coriander sprinkle was fresh and hot and nicely blistered and steamed Basmati Rice was fragrant and flakey.
We tried the new Dishoom house salad. It’s a generous portion of fresh leafy greens, sprouted mixed beans, bulgur wheat, broccoli, carrots, radishes, beetroot, fresh chillies, and toasty masala coconut flakes. Topped with chicken or roast butternut squash, it’s a main course in its own right with lots of textural contrasts and a fabulous dressing.
We had no room for dessert but couldn’t resist the Coconutty Fruit (pineapple, apple and raspberry) Crumble. Topped with a toasted coconut crumble and a smooth coconut ice cream, it was a tropical take on a tea-time treat. I don’t normally mention teas and coffees, but Dishoom now uses a bespoke blend: Baba’s Beans from Dalston’s AllPress Coffee, and my Flat White was excellent.
Dishoom Covent Garden is a large restaurant with both upstairs and downstairs seating areas, and considering how busy the place was, the service was charming and informed. Dishes arrived swiftly, with the chefs working at high speed to deliver a consistently high-quality product. Maybe Dishoom is on its way to becoming the Indian version of Pizza Express?
Dishoom Covent Garden
12 Upper St. Martin’s Lane
London
WC2H 9FB
020 7420 9320
The Yards
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