Last Updated on April 17, 2024
Asia-on-Thames
Chef-restaurateur Peter Lloyd’s new flagship Southeast Asian restaurant Sticky Mango flew under the London Unattached radar when it opened in August so I was delighted to be asked to review this autumn The original Sticky Mango, which is still running, is in Waterloo on the South Bank. The new one is in the area of the late Sir Terence Conran’s innovative Gastrodome project and sits on the site of Cantina del Ponte, a D&D restaurant right on the riverside just down from Tower Bridge, overlooking London’s Tower Bridge,
It’s a fabulous location and Lloyd has done an impressive job reinventing the site from a rather dull and generic modern Trattoria into something rather beautiful.
There’s a ‘Blossom Island’, stunning raindrop chandeliers, monkey light fittings and a bespoke resin floor full of the colours of South-East Asia. With an ambient chill-out soundtrack playing you could be forgiven for thinking you were somewhere more exotic than SE1!
But if you’re after the river view, there’s an outside terrace with one of the best in London.
The cocktail list sticks to the geographic theme. A Tokyo Negroni blends Roku Japanese Gin, and Campari with Umeshu Plum Sake. It has the signature Negroni bite but with the sweetness and fragrance of rose and plum notes. From the choice of Signature Mocktails, a Spice Panoma which mixes Lyre’s London Dry with grapefruit juice, lemon juice and soda, is fresh and vibrant.
We chose three small plates to start; a Thai Green Papaya Salad is full of crunch with a zingy hot and sour lime dressing. A great palate cleanser!
Malaysian Chicken Curry Puffs with yoghurt and mint have crisp, light pastry, and mildly spiced tender pieces of chicken.
Black Pepper Prawns are plated with the sweetness of dehydrated pineapple, Jicama and pea shoots creating a terrific contrast of textures bound together by the delicious savoury, spicy sauce.
For our main dishes, we move onto a fresh, dry and lemony 2022 Picpoul De Pinet Château de la Mirande. Singapore Chilli Lobster comes with a shallot, chilli, and coriander sauce with a crispy, fried Bao bun to soak up its sweet heat.
Miso Glazed Black Cod is one of my favourite dishes and always brings back memories of Nobu in the ‘90s. Pickled Daikon and Cucumber Salad contrast well with the sweet, glazed fish which is soft and tasty.
Our Truffle Egg Fried Rice is served with a bit of table theatre – our lovely waitress chops our fried egg into the deliciously luxurious leek and truffle rice.
Steamed Bok Choi still retains some snap and Miso Butter brings a savoury edge to the dish.
The eponymous Sticky Mango dessert is a must-try. Black Sticky Rice, Mango Sorbet and a Coconut Cream sauce coalesce to deliver a stylish version of my go-to Thai dessert.
More unexpected is the Pandan Macaron Kaya Jama, a sexy little macaron sandwich filled with the savoury hit of soy sauce and caramel ice cream. Think of it as an Asian salted caramel!
Peter Lloyd plans to open a third site – Sticky Mango Islington – in late September 2023, but has created a stunning oasis by the Thames with a wonderful menu that is perfect for a hot date, or a night out with friends or workmates.
Sticky Mango Tower Bridge,
36c Shad Thames,
London
SE1 2YE
+ 44 (0) 20 7928 4554
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