Last Updated on November 27, 2024
Lucky Old Chiswick, home to the AA Restaurant of the Year!
At London Unattached we love to celebrate the success of the restaurants we’ve enjoyed, so seeing The Silver Birch in Chiswick win the AA Restaurant of the Year 2024/25 was fabulous. We last reviewed The Silver Birch a year ago and were very impressed with the new chef Nathan Cornwell so were delighted to return and find out how things have developed. Cornwell has a serious CV that includes Copenhagen’s Geranium (3 Michelin Stars), Stockholm’s Kadeau and Oaxen Krog (2 Michelin Stars respectively), 2 Michelin-starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham, and most recently, four years at The Barn at Moor Hall. He has brought that fine dining pedigree to Chiswick with a two-tier offer: a 3-course set menu plus extras at £75pp and a more substantial tasting menu at £110. The menus are ever-evolving, inspired by the changing seasons and the freshest ingredients nature offers.
The Silver Birch is nestled on the bustling High Road, tucked discreetly among a row of restaurants. It might be easy to stroll past but trust me, if you’re a foodie, this is one dining experience you won’t want to overlook. Step inside to find a sleek, contemporary space crafted by B3 Design. The interior perfectly balances industrial and inviting, with cream-coloured ducting on the ceiling and a clean, minimalist aesthetic. The light wood flooring and a palette of warm browns and beiges create a cosy yet modern vibe, complemented by stylish Scandi-inspired bow-back chairs. Soft jazz renditions of pop classics hum in the background, setting the tone for a relaxed and refined evening. And when the weather permits, the outdoor terrace seating area offers a perfect spot to enjoy your meal al fresco.
To kick off our evening, crafted cocktails – a Cosmopolitan with Portobello Road vodka, cranberry, Cointreau, and citrus, delivering a smooth yet zesty blend, and a Seedlip Citrus Fizz – refreshingly light, offering a crisp, citrusy flavour without any sharp acidity.
We chose the three-course set menu, seamlessly adapted to suit our dietary requirements. It began with a selection of delicate homemade snacks: cured sea trout cubes atop a wheat cracker, delivering a clean, crisp snap. I especially loved the crispy pig’s head fritter, packed with intense pork flavour with a smoky kick of Savora mustard, and the light, refined Spenwood sheep’s cheese cream, showcasing beautifully balanced flavours. Each bite was a perfect introduction to the care and creativity behind the dishes.
Breads & Butters featured a deliciously salty sourdough and soft, tasty brioche, studded with bacon nuggets and finished with crisp, golden crusts. These were served alongside a fragrant vegetal lovage butter and a rich, creamy regular butter. An amuse-bouche of roasted celeriac broth poured from a teapot at the table, was a perfect winter warmer. The autumnal flavours of truffle, girolles, and cep were complemented by the crunch of pickled celeriac, creating wonderful umami notes in this Japanese-inspired dish.
The meal at The Silver Birch was perfectly paired with a Viognier and Viura blend, Immacula, from Tandem in Navarra, Spain – a complex wine with notes of vanilla, apricot, and mineral undertones, aged in French oak for added depth.
We decided to share, eager to sample as many dishes as possible. First came our starters: cured and torched Mevagissey mackerel, its skin perfectly caramelized, paired with small chunks of Porthilly oyster, pickled turnip, and cucumber dill – subtle Scandinavian influences shining through.
A stunningly presented Devon crab in the shell arrived, accompanied by pickled apple, sourdough crumpets, and delicate caviar. The dish highlighted only the white meat, complemented by a rich brown crab butter, and served with dinky crumpets and crab foam for a fabulous mouthful. The softness of the crumpet provided a light contrast to the pickled apple and the foamed shellfish bisque, finished with a hint of lemon verbena.
For mains, the Delica pumpkin was cooked three ways, accompanied by chanterelles, cavolo nero, and autumn truffle, the seasonal purée and thinly sliced truffle adding depth to the dish. Roasted salsify brought perfect autumnal flavours, though it could have used a little lift, perhaps something acidic or spicy to elevate the richness.
The poached Newlyn cod, slow-cooked at 52°C, was exquisite. It sat on a bed of steamed and smoked brassicas, complemented by a smoked roe sauce and dill oil. A mixture of fish roe added texture and sophistication to the plate. The cod was flawlessly cooked, its delicate flesh resting beneath the smoky, earthy brassicas. The rich, creamy roe sauce brought a luxurious depth of flavour that tied the dish together beautifully.
For dessert, Kentish blackberries, meadowsweet, granola, and meringue, topped with a blackberry sorbet – an exquisite mix of textures, from crisp and crunchy to soft and delicate. The tartness of the blackberries was perfectly balanced by the sweetness of the light meringue. The Bergamot parfait offered a gentle citrus flavour, paired with a subtly creamy Earl Grey sorbet, orange jelly, and almond crumble, all glazed with a delicate sugar finish.
Lastly, just as we thought the heavenly flavours had come to an end, we were treated to a final indulgence: gooseberry and white chocolate macarons – offering a wonderful combination with the tartness of the gooseberries and the richness of white chocolate, and a hazelnut truffle that was even better than a Ferrero Rocher!
The Silver Birch is destined for great things, with its unique selling point being seasonal dishes that boast multiple levels of flavour and texture, along with, of course, immaculate service. Lucky old Chiswick!
The Silver Birch
142 Chiswick High Road
London
W4 1PU
The Silver Birch is open: Wednesday – 6-9 pm Thursday, Friday & Saturday – 12-2.30 pm & 6-9 pm Sunday 12-2.30 pm
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