Last Updated on September 3, 2025
Inspired Italian neighbourhood dining
5.0 out of 5.0 starsMarcella is a perfect example of a modern neighbourhood Italian. A relation of Peckham’s popular Artusi, the Deptford outpost has been serving eager diners since opening in 2018. All the dishes at Marcella are designed for sharing (not compulsory for those who like to guard their own plates of food), so it’s an excellent spot for people who want to cover a table in delicious things.
Marcella’s chefs, Jack Beer (formerly of The Clove Club and Peckham Bazaar) and Paolo Lancini, oversee an inventive and frequently changing menu that utilises the finest produce from their trusted local and Italian suppliers. Think freshly made pasta, seasonal starters, mains based on the classic Italian idea of the Secondi (ie excellent meat or fish allowed to shine) and desserts.
With the exception of a lone G&T, the Aperitivi/Cocktails menu at Marcella is all Italian (as is the wine list). I began my evening with a strong and instantly mood-boosting Negroni (good value at £8). Meanwhile, my more sensible companion chose the 0% Gin and Tonic from the non-alcoholic list. Made with Lyre’s London Dry Spirit, this was tall and cool with a good hit of botanics but lacking the kick of the alcoholic version.
We selected two of the three starters on the menu, beginning with the House-made ricotta, accompanied by Vesuvio tomatoes, salsa verde, and taggiasca olives. The ricotta was light, fluffy, and smooth, with a texture that was not at all grainy. The salty olives and the sweetness of the tomatoes perfectly offset it. Lots of mint in the salsa added a fresh green taste to the whole dish.
Our second starter was the Friggitelli peppers, served with anchovy, aioli, and pickled onions. Marcella’s friggitelli peppers are served gently warm, boosting the flavour. This was a dish of many textures and notes, the pickled onion contrasting against the sweetness of the peppers. The capers and anchovies add even more interest. Probably the best friggitelle I’ve had…
Marcella’s freshly made pasta is offered in two sizes. We could not resist trying a “small” bowl of each. Both dishes turned out to be lovely examples of how a simple pasta dish executed well with good ingredients can bring such pleasure.
“I could live on this” said my companion of the Trottole all’arrabbiata after just a few mouthfuls. Hotter than usual and laced with fresh chilli, Marcella’s version was better than those at some of London’s better-known fresh pasta spots.
Meanwhile, the Pappardelle with ox cheek ragu was rich with well-seasoned, slow-cooked meat and loads of cheese. The ribbons of pasta had bite and flavour.
A table of four might have happily shared the huge Whole sea bream with beetroot, Swiss chard and capers. Undaunted, we managed to make shortish work of the well-cooked fish stuffed with rosemary and lemon. We’d have liked more of the beetroot and Swiss chard as they were such a good match for the bream.
I have a well-founded suspicion of British attempts at tiramisu and have almost given up ordering it. I’m very glad I paid attention to our waitress’s enthusiasm for Marcella’s version. Our large shareable portion had a high level of creaminess, wasn’t sickly sweet, but was generously infused with strong coffee. Vitally, this tiramusu was not stiff and not cakey. I hope this is back on the menu next time I go to Marcella.
Our waitress tempted us into having digestivi. We caved in and both tried the Grappa Traminer, a punchy firewater to end an excellent evening.
Marcella is everything a modern local restaurant should be, and it was packed with a lively and generally youthful crowd on a Wednesday evening. The service was excellent – we were given lots of good advice and a deep love of the restaurant came through too. The restaurant is casual in the best of ways, welcoming, unstuffy and serving excellent food and drinks at a manageable price point. Marcella is well worth a regular trip to Deptford High Street as the chalkboard menu changes every two weeks.
165A Deptford High St,
London
SE8 3NU
Telephone: 020 3903 6561
Leave a Reply