Last Updated on October 23, 2026
4.5 out of 5.0 starsA feast of French classics
The team behind Bistro Sablé in Islington have branched out from their original base with a residency above a popular pub near Old Street Station. The upstairs room at the Princess of Shoreditch has been transformed into a 32-seat dining room in the spirit of a traditional Parisian bistro, complete with candles, posters and a long menu of French favourites. I’m a great fan of French food and wine so was keen to check it out before the residency ends at the end of this year.
Bistro Sablé at the Princess of Shoreditch has its own entrance from the street with a wrought-iron spiral staircase leading up to the welcoming dining room. Unless there is a lift or a more normal staircase hidden away somewhere else in the building, I wouldn’t recommend a visit in stilettos or for anyone who might find the stairs difficult. That said it’s worth the climb. We enjoyed the successful mix of Paris bistro and London pub, the service and especially the atmosphere as the restaurant filled with chatter and laughter.
White Burgundy is always the irresistible choice for me, and the wine list at Bistro Sablé features several by the glass or carafe. I opted for the 2024 Macon Loché, Domaine Perraton, which was predictably smooth and delicious. Naturally, I accepted the offer of a second glass.
My non-drinking friend asked for a tonic water with a slice of lime, but the bar rustled up something that looked (and tasted) altogether more exciting.
With drinks on the table, we were ready to start eating. It must be said at the outset that the portions at Bistro Sablé are large. Forget about the usual dainty quenelle; my starter of Duck liver parfait was probably shaped using an extra-large serving spoon. I was not complaining, though, because it was rich and super smooth and accompanied by slices of sweet brioche, onion marmalade and a healthy handful of watercress.
The moment my companion spotted the words “Baked cheese soufflé” on the specials board, she knew exactly what she was ordering for her starter. The high praise started almost immediately as she declared the dish “absolutely scrumptious”, calling it a wonderful mix of goo and textured, stringy cheese.
The main courses had a lot to live up to. My vegetarian friend picked the Ratatouille Provençal – her only viable choice on the very traditional, very meaty/fishy menu. (NB: a vegan would struggle here.) Happily, it was a good example of this French classic, presented in a pretty circular pattern. The vegetables were lightly cooked, maintaining their separate flavours rather than descending into a mushy stew.
I, on the other hand, had far too much choice. I wanted to try almost every dish on the Plats section of the menu – a long list of French Bistro favourites. I reluctantly passed over the Bouillabaisse with saffron potatoes and rouillé, the Cassoulet au confit de canard, the Boeuf Bourguignon, and settled on the Coq au vin. Another vast plate of food turned up; I only wished I had another meat eater to share it with.
We’d ordered a couple of sides to share, both pleasing in their butteriness. The portion of Pommes purée went against the grain and was small. The huge platter of glossy green beans more than made up for it.
On arriving at Bistro Sablé, the dish that caught my eye on the specials board was the Pear tarte tatin for two to share. Alas, my attempts to persuade my friend that she did have room for a pastry-based pudding failed. Luckily, there was an XOXO 70% chocolate mousse on the menu to save the day. This was dense, supremely rich and gooey all at the same time and the big fat cherries were juicy and sweet. I don’t subscribe to the idea that mousse should be fluffy so I was happy. I’m still wondering about that tarte tatin though.
Despite her insistence that she was full, my companion managed to make swift work of a big and satisfyring dish of Crème brulée.
This iteration of Bistro Sablé will be in residence above the Princess of Shoreditch until the end of 2026. That means there’s plenty of time to visit this little corner of Paris in East London, a world of white tablecloths, good wine and enormous portions of traditional French bistro classics.
Bistro Sablé at the Princess of Shoreditch
Address: 76–78 Paul Street, Shoreditch, London EC2A 4NE
Telephone: 020 7729 9270
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