Last Updated on March 26, 2024
New York style supper club in the heart of London
London has been crying out for a classic New York style supper club. Somewhere with sexy lighting, a great band, with a touch of razzamatazz and excellent food. Bardo St. James’s, just off the Haymarket, ticks all those boxes.
Founder Luca Maggiora, a seasoned entrepreneur renowned for his experience in London’s vibrant nightlife scene for over a decade, transitioned his expertise into the realm of restaurants when he launched Bardo St. James’s in 2021. A discreet entrance on Suffolk Place takes you downstairs to a spacious lowly lit swanky lounge restaurant which seats 150, with an eye-catching turquoise tiled bar and a central bandstand.
Dark parquet flooring, sparkling Venetian glass light fittings, plush red velvet bucket chairs and tables set with crisp white linen tablecloths, set the scene which is reminiscent of the Italian glamour of the ’50s and ’60s. In addition to the main dining area Bardo also boasts a walk-in wine cellar, whisky room, private dining room and private lounge.
Executive Chef Graziano Bonacina, the creative force behind every dish at Bardo St James’s, draws inspiration from his roots at Fatur on the Amalfi Coast. His extensive experience and unwavering commitment to authentic Italian cuisine shine through as he meticulously sources premium ingredients directly from Italy, as well as from local UK producers. This dedication is evident in the meticulously crafted fine-dining menu, brimming with indulgent flavours and featuring seasonal and classic dishes, including a superb pasta selection and mains such as Beef Sirloin and Sea Bass. Additionally, for vegans and vegetarians, there are plenty of plant-based options. And when it comes to truffles, rest assured, they are a speciality.
At Bardo live music is very much part of the experience, the music programme runs six days a week with everything from jazz, and blues to groovy soul and classic ballads. Our evening was punctuated by a fab swing band, complete with a captivating singer, grand piano, double bass, and drums, who serenaded diners with tunes from the Great American Songbook and Latin classics. With such rhythmic allure, it’s a shame there’s no dance floor, as it might have been quite fun to have had a little boogie…
We settled down to an aperitif, choosing from their bespoke cocktail list which has South American and Japanese influences as well as Italian. Of course, all the classics are available too. My Una Geisha en Jalisco was an elegant and delicate take on Margarita – Volcan tequila infused with Lychee, plum wine, Supasawa and simple syrup. My companions That’s Amore, combined Bullet Bourbon, Campari, Cocchi vermouth, truffle oil – a twist on Boulevardier. Very smooth and moreish without the bite of its progenitor.
To accompany our cocktails – Pinsa, Tartufo Nero, a delicious light and charred Roman flatbread made with 10% rice flour, and topped with oozing Fior di latte, rich black truffle purée and a welcome drizzle of truffle oil.
Next, we savoured a delightful spread of Italian delicacies, indulging in creamy spoonfuls of Polenta Morbida – rich and fluffy, laced with a decadent fricassee of truffled mushrooms.
Alongside, beautifully seared, and caramelised scallops, accompanied by a luscious artichoke purée. And the classic Vitello “Tonnato” Rosa, featuring fine slices of veal enveloped in an indulgent tuna and crispy caper mayonnaise, served with vibrant rocket salad. The Crudo di Ricciola – soft yellow tail tuna with gentle tomato, preserved lemon, infused with coriander and soy flavours.
We accompanied our meal with a bottle of Bramito Chardonnay, Umbria 2022 from the Antinori house. This Chardonnay boasts refreshing citrus notes, complemented by a well-rounded body.
Next, a celebration of simplicity- Ravioli cacio e pepe, al dente pasta in a delicious warm brown butter sauce, a touch of sage and the added crunch of a parmesan crisp. I could live on this dish, but that might not be good for my waistline!
For mains, I had the Classic Italian dish – Cotoletta alla Milanese, a thin, crisp succulent veal cutlet in a breadcrumb and parmesan coating, with “sabbiose” potatoes and roasted Datterino tomatoes.
My companion’s Merluzzo Nero was much enjoyed, a fine piece of caramelised black cod, lifted by the aniseed crunch of fennel and sweet citrus of the blood orange salad.
Despite not needing another bite, we couldn’t resist the desserts – a magnificent Tiramisù, creamy and rich with just the right amount of alcohol, and a light crunch. And a truly fabulous vanilla crème brûlée, delicately infused with lemon zest and topped with a surprise dollop of mandarin sorbet, proved irresistible.
Bardo presents the complete package for those in search of a glamorous night out in the heart of London, an immersive dining experience complemented by live music and luxurious Italian cuisine.
There is also the opportunity to enjoy Bardo’s Tasting Menu which is a “whole table” offer available Monday to Thursday with the last order at 9:30 pm, or the Pre-Theatre Menu available Monday to Saturday from 5-6 pm where two courses are £39 or 3 courses are £47.
Address: 4 Suffolk Place, London, SW1Y 4HX
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