Last Updated on July 17, 2026
Creative culinary storytelling in Stoke Newington
4.6 out of 5.0 stars
My brother lives just around the corner from Stoke Newington Church Street, so I’m a regular visitor. It has a lovely village feel, and unlike most high streets, it’s lined with independent shops rather than chains, with lots of cool cafés and restaurants. So, I already have a good reason to visit, but there’s another reason to make the trip. Calong, which opened in February this year, is an exciting new contemporary Korean restaurant that uses contemporary European techniques to make the most of the bold Korean flavours.
I was invited along to try their new summer menu, and, arriving on a hot summer evening, I found the place buzzing. Tables spilt onto the street, filled with a lively, young crowd. When we asked one of the staff what Calong meant, we were told that it’s Busan slang for something cool or groovy. How apt!
Run by husband-and-wife team Joo and Sujin, Calong earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2026 and was named by the Financial Times as one of the Best New London Restaurants of 2025. No wonder it’s already so popular. Joo has an impressive culinary CV, having previously been head chef at Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows, while Sujin has worked at The Wolseley, The Delaunay and Fischer’s Marylebone.
Inside, it’s cosy and intimate, with a pared-back urban-chic vibe, distressed brick walls, and simple furnishings of wood and galvanised zinc-top tables, with chunky cutlery to match. We sat by the window, which opens completely onto the pavement, where we could watch the world go by and enjoy Calong’s atmosphere.
The menus are chalked up on blackboards, including a cocktail list with choices a little more intriguing than the usual offerings. I went for a refreshing take on a Vermouth and Soda, while my companion chose the Saeng-Gang Martini, which he declared a touch gingery and fabulous.
Food at Calong is made for sharing, with an imaginative menu of Korean dishes cooked in Joo’s unique style. We were advised not to miss the kimchi fritters with chilli mayo, and I’m very pleased we didn’t. Vibrant red balls, gooey and delicious, with a proper bite. It’s a great snack to enjoy alongside the cocktails.
We moved on to a selection of small plates. The chalk stream trout was a complete contrast to the fritters. I’m a real fan of ceviche, but this version had a richer, more Asian-inspired dressing than the South American style I’m used to, combining sesame, plum and soy with sweet orange segments, Thai basil and cucumber. It was wonderfully fresh, with a gentle warmth from the chilli.
Next, tender octopus with chojang, a sweet, sharp, and spicy Korean chilli dressing, balanced by aromatic perilla and peppery watercress, and topped with pickled onion for a sweet-and-sour crunch.
Korean fried chicken may have hit London’s high streets, but Joo’s was something else. The crispiest I’d ever had the pleasure of eating; it came with sweet chilli and peanut and finely sliced pickled radish, adding freshness and a background of heat.
The larger plates came next. A generous portion of perfectly cooked Cornish cod, mooji jorim, with cavolo nero. And then the roast lamb with friggitelli peppers, muchim and olive jus. The lamb was tender, with the rich jus adding depth to the dish’s Asian flavours.
We’d wondered about the steaming-hot earthenware pots arriving at the next table, which was just as well, as I’d never have guessed from the name that mushroom gondre and yolk butter sot bap was a rice dish, and a truly fantastic one at that. Filled with earthy mushrooms, sticky rice and Korean herbs, it was packed with flavour. Summer seasonal veg came with melon and a doenjang vinaigrette.
The wine list is small but well curated, with a selection of ethically made wines served by the glass or by the bottle. The La Distesa Terre Silvate 2025, a Verdicchio from Le Marche, was dry and fresh, with citrusy notes. I often find orange wines a little too funky. Still, the Tutti Frutti Ananas Nespola 2024 from Roussillon was remarkably drinkable; it was vibrant and characterful, with a touch of citrus and spice.
And finally, dessert. The lemon posset was divine. In its centre was a choux fritter, in a lemony cream, topped with a cloud-like dollop of meringue; it was on the right side of sweet and gooey and light. What more could you want?
Add a 24-month Comté with hazelnut biscuits and ginseng honey, and you could say we ended the meal incredibly content.
I probably ate one of the best meals I’ve had all year at Calong. I love the way it combines innovative Korean, ingredient-led dishes with an understated, laid-back atmosphere that suits anyone, from a group of friends to an intimate date. Booking ahead is advisable, as I’m sure the locals know how lucky they are to have such a great neighbourhood restaurant. I left wishing that this fabulous Korean eatery was on my doorstep.
Open for dinner Wednesday-Saturday, lunch Friday-Sunday
Calong 35 Stoke Newington Church St, London N16 0NX
Phone: 020 3561 4798
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