Last Updated on January 9, 2026
Spice on the Water at Chicome
The last time I went to St Katherine’s Dock, it was to eat at an excellent Mexican fusion restaurant called Chayote. On my return to review, it turns out that Chayote has morphed magically into Chicome, also a Mexican fusion restaurant with the same chef in the kitchen, Tomasz Baranski, a Barrafina alumnus.

If you don’t know St Katherine’s Dock, you reach it from the north side of Tower Bridge, descending a flight of stairs to a sunlit haven full of yachts, restaurants, and people having a good time.

But, why the change? It transpires that the original name caused havoc with Google; the restaurant was regularly getting confused with the green pear-shaped tropical fruit after which it was named. Chicome is named after the number seven in the Aztec language, initially reflecting the number of dishes on a menu that brings together classic Mexican, Peruvian and Spanish gastronomy.

The interior is urban elegant, with some fab views of the boats in the dock and outdoor seating available. There are brick walls, wooden floors and tables with avocado banquettes and chairs for seating. Hanging filament lamps and ropes add atmosphere, as does the low-level groovy South American music playing at a level that doesn’t interfere with conversation.

I’m a sucker for a lunchtime cocktail. We tried the delicious Hola, a blend of Pensador Mezcal, Mango, Citrus and Lemonade, a long, refreshing drink with a smoky sweetness and a bit of a kick. A Spicy Margarita, bringing together Jalapeños, El Reyo tequila, Cointreau and agave, is spicy and salty with a fresh mouth feel and the zing of lime.

We had been invited to review some of the new South American Summer dishes from the menu. Sea trout tiradito with yuzu tiger’s milk is a Nikkei-influenced dish bringing together Japanese sashimi and Peruvian ceviche techniques. Bite-sized chunks of high-quality sea trout have been ‘cooked’ in a citric yuzu ‘milk’, then plated with a smooth avocado cream and a sour-sweet hibiscus gel. It’s an excellent plate of food.

Fresh crab and red caviar baby gem tacos are superficially a less sophisticated proposition. A dollop of crab meat has been mixed with an Amarillo mayo, placed on a lettuce leaf, then topped with caviar. There is roasted garlic and some chives in the mix, delivering a vibrant mouth feel given a depth of flavour by the richness of the garlic.

From the Tacos and Tostadas menu, we try the 5-hour slow-cooked short rib tacos served with the crunch of crushed chicharron, that’s pork crackling to you and me. The meat is richly flavoured, lightly spiced, sweet and tender. It doesn’t last long on the plate.

Chicome has a series of Signature Dishes. We tried the Iberico pork cheeks carnitas, a richly flavoured and satisfying stew of chunks of tender pork cheeks braised for over 3 hours in red wine. It comes with a sweet, smoky red mole and a creamy green mole that adds further depth of taste. The matched red wine, a 2021 Spanish Garnacha/Tempranillo blend from Bodegas Monfil Kalius, is bursting with blackberry flavours.

I chose the hake fillet with salsa guerito y coco, a creamy sauce with some heat made from guerito peppers and coconut. Perched on a bed of spicy chipotle-sauteed vegetables, the fish skin was properly seared with the flesh still firm. Providing a vegetal-flavoured textural contrast, crisp kale chicharron completed this fabulous dish, which my glass of Mexican white, a 2023, L.A. Cetto Chenin Blanc from Baja California, with citrus and green apple notes stood up to with impunity.

Eating by the water at lunchtime always makes me want to order a dessert, as does eating away from the water. Fortunately, desserts at Chicome are not an afterthought. A guava cheesecake is a classic cheesecake with a tropical twist, sitting on a crumble base with a lime gel for acidity and topped with blue flower petals. A dense, dark chocolate tartlet has a creamy, coconut liqueur filling and a crunchy biscuit base. A dollop of rich pistachio ice cream with the tart creates a great combo.

If you enjoy Mexican food or something with a bit of spice served in a contemporary setting, then you should visit Chicome. It’s easy to access, being near Aldgate and Tower Bridge stations and with their £5 Taco Tuesday promotion, there really are no excuses for not going. You’ll thank me.
Chicome
2 St Katharine’s Way,
St Katharine’s Docks
London E1W 1AA
+44 (0) 2030317601

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