Last Updated on October 26, 2026
Discovering the food and wine at the heart of France’s Loire Valley
Anjou, in France’s gorgeous Loire Valley, is a region where local food and drink are integral to its charm. Vineyards produce everything from crisp whites to gently sparkling and luscious, sweet wines. Local kitchens make the most of freshwater fish, mushrooms, apples, and more, while traditional specialities reflect centuries of ingenuity in preserving food and using the region’s distinctive geology.
The river Loire itself is an important part of the experience. Often described as Europe’s last wild river, it supports a wide variety of wildlife and provides a constantly changing backdrop to the towns and villages along the banks. Follow these spots in a loop from Angers or dip into them individually as day trips. Either way, come hungry!
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Fontevraud: food, history and an extraordinary abbey
A visit to Anjou offers the opportunity to explore its history alongside its gastronomy, and few places combine the two as impressively as the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud.
Founded in 1101, the vast abbey complex was once one of Europe’s most important monastic centres, and it still remains one of the largest in the world. It also has strong connections to the Plantagenet dynasty and is the burial place of Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and Richard the Lionheart. Over the centuries, it has served as a religious community and a prison, but today it’s a beautiful cultural destination hosting exhibitions and concerts, with a hotel and restaurant right within the grounds.
Art lovers will enjoy the abbey’s modern art museum, which opened in 2021 following a major donation by a private collector couple. It provides a striking counterpoint to the medieval architecture, and the tiny but mighty shop sells beautiful books, local gifts and food specialities.
Hôtel L’Ermitage within the abbey complex is a unique property offering hotel guests exclusive access to the site after normal visiting hours. Wandering through the abbey late at night, when the crowds have gone and the paths are lit only by the moon, is an experience not to miss. The local village provides a few eating options, including La Licorne – a gourmet restaurant in an eighteenth-century building which is a 15-minute walk from the abbey. The food combines heritage and contemporary food culture in a beautiful garden setting.
Pommes tapées: an unusual apple tradition
Some of Anjou’s food specialities grew out of the need to preserve seasonal produce. Pommes tapées are a case in point. These are apples which are slowly dried in the residual heat of bread ovens, then flattened by hand and ‘tapped’ to remove further moisture. The result is a unique product that can be stored and later rehydrated for use in cooking.
In the nineteenth century, production became an important local industry here. The preserved apples provided food beyond the harvest season and were exported beyond the region along the river. Trade declined after the WW1 as baking habits changed and modern preservation methods took over. Today, a visit to this historic cave reveals how this once-thriving industry worked and how the tradition is being kept alive. There is a small restaurant and bar on site for tastings of the products, which can be bought in the little shop.
Le Saut aux Loups: mushrooms from the limestone caves
Anjou’s geology has helped shape its food traditions, and one of the most distinctive places to explore here is Le Saut aux Loups.
This artisanal mushroom farm is set within tunnels carved into the region’s soft tuffeau limestone. The caves provide a naturally cool, humid environment which is well suited to mushroom cultivation. It continues a tradition that has made use of the area’s underground spaces for generations. Visitors can explore the tunnels and learn about the farm’s work before discovering one of the region’s best-known mushroom specialities, galipettes, in the restaurant. Galipettes are large stuffed mushrooms, baked in an oven and filled with garlic, herbs, cheese, or local produce. Mushrooms are a familiar ingredient across French regional cooking, but eating them here, in the environment where they are cultivated, gives a different perspective.
A taste of the Loire aboard a traditional boat
The Loire is central to Anjou’s identity and Europe’s last wild river. Experiencing it from the water offers a different perspective on the region’s vineyards, villages and wildlife.
From Montsoreau, a traditional boat trip with Loire Vins Aventure combines a journey along the river with a wine tasting and a picnic lunch by a local caterer. Aboard a traditional, wooden barge, visitors can enjoy the landscape that sustains local agriculture and food production, hear stories of how the local economy grew along its banks, and watch migratory birds swooping in and out of the water.
Saumur: inventive cooking and sparkling wine
The historic town of Saumur is an important and quaint stop.
The cobblestone heart of town has plenty of restaurants, but lunch at L’Essentiel introduces the region’s produce through chef Anthony Vaillant’s inventive cooking. The restaurant’s approach places local ingredients at the heart of a more contemporary style of cuisine, illustrating how regional food traditions can evolve without losing their connection to the surrounding countryside. Don’t miss the cheeseboard!
Saumur is also an important name in French sparkling wine outside the Champagne region. A visit to Maison Ackerman offers an opportunity to explore the history of the area’s fines bulles and Crémant de Loire.
Founded in 1811, Ackerman is recognised as the oldest sparkling wine house in the Loire Valley. Its history is closely tied to the region’s limestone cellars, which provide suitable conditions for storing and ageing wine. The brand story is cleverly woven into the tour, tracing the history of its bold marketing campaigns.
A partnership with Fontevraud Abbey brings contemporary artists into Ackerman’s monumental cellars. The immersive installations are one of a kind and use light, space and the raw limestone to create an unusual interplay between art, wine and heritage.
The term fines bulles, literally fine bubbles, captures the appeal of the region’s sparkling wines. Crémant de Loire is made using the traditional method, in which the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. Chenin Blanc often plays a significant role, bringing freshness and acidity, while other permitted grape varieties contribute different characteristics. Although Champagne remains France’s best-known sparkling wine, the Loire offers a delicious alternative, with its own identity and a range of styles suited to different occasions. Tastings are offered at the end of tours timed regularly throughout the day.
Troglodyte caves: a taste of life underground
The soft limestone of the Loire Valley has also shaped how people have lived here for centuries. By carving into the rock, generations of troglodytes created homes, cellars, storage spaces and workshops, making use of the caves’ naturally stable temperatures. What began as a practical response to the landscape evolved into a distinctive way of life.
At Rocaminori, this underground heritage becomes part of the experience. The unique accommodation is set within the caves. It’s rather creepy to begin with, but the cosiness soon sets in.
Dinner at the on-site restaurant, Les Caves de la Genevraie, continues the theme with fouaces – small traditional breads baked in a very hot oven and served with a variety of savoury accompaniments. The meal is a jolly all-you-can-eat experience with local wines included, and includes a visit to the ovens, bringing the history and craft behind this local speciality to life.
Camifolia: a botanical garden where plants meet art
Garden lovers will adore Camifolia, a botanical garden dedicated to medicinal, aromatic and dye plants and their many uses. The garden contains around 600 species, giving visitors the chance to learn about plants used across the region in cooking, traditional remedies, perfumery, and textile production.
It is also as much a place to explore art and nature as it is a botanical collection, with art installations dotted among the planting. On our visit, contemporary structures highlighted planting for specific, common ailments. There’s a dedicated growing space showcasing plants in cultivation, while the lily pond offers a quieter spot to pause and take in the setting.
Château Soucherie: tasting the wines of Anjou
The Loire Valley is one of France’s most diverse wine regions, producing everything from crisp, mineral whites and structured reds to delicate rosés, sparkling wines and rich sweet wines.
Chenin Blanc is the region’s defining white grape here, which is prized for its versatility, while Cabernet Franc is a key variety for reds. Cabernet Sauvignon, Grolleau and Sauvignon Blanc also feature in local winemaking.
Across Anjou, there are countless vineyards open to visitors, offering cellar tours, tastings and the chance to meet the people behind the wines. One worth exploring is Château Soucherie, a historic 28-hectare estate where a guided vineyard tour and tasting offer an introduction to the region’s different appellations – with incredible views!
The estate produces wines under several appellations, including Anjou, Savennières, Coteaux du Layon and Chaume. Chenin Blanc, however, does take centre stage, demonstrating just how much range one grape can offer. In Savennières, it produces distinctive dry whites with texture and ageing potential; in Coteaux du Layon and Chaume, the conditions can encourage noble rot, concentrating the grapes’ sugars and flavours to create richly layered sweeter wines. Tasting these contrasting styles on the stunning rooftop of the estate brought home the diversity of the area.
Angers: contemporary dining and Cointreau
Angers is an unmissable stop on a food (and drink) lover’s itinerary as it’s not only a historic city but also one with a lively contemporary dining scene.
At Les Petits Prés, chef Samuel Albert brings a modern approach to regional dining in his relaxed restaurant just off the town’s main square. Albert won the 2019 French series of Top Chef, and the restaurant has since attracted food lovers keen to discover his cooking. Try the trompe l’oeil dishes such as the cappuccino risotto or the Granny Smith apple for dessert.
For city views, head to La Réserve, a creative bistro on the rooftop of Angers’ Le Quai theatre. The menu serves traditional and classic French cooking, making it a good spot for a leisurely lunch. The setting is a draw in its own right, with a sunny terrace and views across the city and to the castle that make the most of its rooftop location.
No food and drink lovers’ guide to Angers would be complete without a visit to the Carré Cointreau.
The orange liqueur, Cointreau, was created in Angers in the 19th century and has since become recognised internationally. At the visitor centre, the story of the family business and its distilling expertise provides fantastic insights into how a regional product developed into a global name. It explores the role of citrus, flavour, distillation and how to create a spirit that can be enjoyed on its own or used in cocktails. Don’t miss the tasting experiences in the bar afterwards, and allow time to visit the shop to buy the one-offs only available here in the city.
Angers also offers plenty to explore beyond the dining table. A guided walk through the historic centre takes in the cathedral, castle and the extraordinary Apocalypse Tapestry, and is a must for history buffs! The tapestry was commissioned in the late fourteenth century by Louis I, the then Duke of Anjou. It was originally around 140 metres long, but today only 103 metres survives, making it considerably longer than the 70-metre Bayeux Tapestry currently on display at the British Museum. Where Bayeux depicts William the Conqueror’s invasion of England in 1066, the Apocalypse in Angers illustrates the Book of Revelation, with vivid scenes of dragons, angels, demons and the battle between good and evil. It is a remarkable piece of medieval storytelling, best appreciated with a guide who can explain the full details, one scene at a time.
Where to stay in Anjou
Hotel Markus is a four-star boutique hotel right in the heart of the city. It’s a modern, contemporary redesign within an elegant mansion with a fantastic coffee shop. Importantly, it’s also within walking distance of the main square and a short taxi ride from the TGV station.
Getting To Anjou and Beyond
By train: The most straightforward option is the Eurostar from London St Pancras International to Paris Gare du Nord, followed by a cross-city transfer to Gare Montparnasse for a TGV to Angers or Saumur. Allow plenty of time to change stations, as they are not directly connected, and download the Île-de-France Mobilités app for Paris metro tickets.
By plane: Flights from London to Nantes Atlantique Airport provide an alternative for those who prefer to fly. From Nantes, you can take a train to Angers or hire a car.
By car: For drivers, LeShuttle is the fastest option to cross the Channel to Calais. The crossing takes around 35 minutes, followed by a drive of roughly six hours to Angers, depending on traffic and stops.
For more food-focused short break inspiration, try Gothenburg, Berlin or Funchal
Disclaimer: The author travelled as a guest of Anjou Tourisme and Atout France
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