Last Updated on January 2, 2026
Wining and dining to the sound of Bow Bells
4.0 out of 5.0 starsIndependent wine-bar chain Humble Grape has recently opened their seventh venue, a combination of wine bar, wine shop and restaurant. This time they’ve taken over a very special location – the 11th-century crypt of St Mary-le-Bow in Cheapside. History and church architecture buffs will love being wined and dined among the original Norman arches. We went along on a misty Monday night to find the atmospheric crypt packed with merry drinkers and diners of all ages.
St Mary-le-Bow is most famous for its Bow Bells, an integral part of London’s folklore. To be born within the sound of the bells, of course, makes one a true Cockney. I just missed out, but am comforted by the fact that I came into the world within earshot of the Oranges and Lemons of St Clements instead.
And there are other claims to fame. For example, it was hearing the Bow Bells that summoned Dick Whittington back to London to become Lord Mayor, way back in 1392.
Founded in 2009, Humble Grape specialises in importing small-batch, sustainable wines from all over the world. A curated list of 500 organic wines is available to buy to take away from the Bow Lane branch or to drink in-house. As we visited on a Monday evening, we could have taken advantage of “Retail Monday,” which allows visitors to drink at the bar at take-away prices, with savings of up to 50%.
Instead of ordering a bottle to share, we decided to take advantage of the long list of wines by the glass and our helpful waiter’s superior wine knowledge. He quizzed each of us individually about our likes and dislikes, and later reappeared with two short glasses each to compare and contrast. I was surprised to discover I had plumped for a German wine over one of my usual go-to choices, the Picpoul de Pinet. I admit to a lifelong prejudice slash horror when it comes to German wines, no doubt sparked by a bad experience in the early 1980s. Anyway, I can recommend the Weingut von Winning Grauburgunder (German for Pinot Gris) 2021 and will not be so automatically dismissive in the future.
My companion, meanwhile, was testing out her red wines. She much preferred the South African Nieuwe Harleem Pinotage over the Spanish Bodega Vinessens Sein, describing the former as having a smoother, more rounded finish.
Drinking can make you hungry, and Humble Grape Bow Lane has an appealing menu of shared plates, heaving cheese and charcuterie platters, as well as mains and desserts. We kicked off with a couple of small plates to share. The Citrus-Cured Salmon with a grapefruit and orange dressing was a refreshing dish. We loved the combination of the smoked fish and sweet citrus. The Blistered Padron Peppers were another good addition to the table, but we would have liked the whipped tahini to have been boosted by another ingredient.
My main was the Heritage Carrot and Beetroot Tarte Tatin with cauliflower leaf dressing and, according to the menu, watercress. This would have been more successful at cutting through the dominant sweetness in this dish than the pea shoots that appeared with it instead. That said, this was a well-cooked tart held together with the all-important good pastry
My companion thoroughly enjoyed her Seared Sea Bass, accompanied with lots of wintery touches: parsnip purée, pumpkin and kale. This well-balanced plate was brought together by a light and creamy velouté.
Humble Grape Bow Lane’s Chocolate Fondant served with vanilla ice cream passed the goo test with top marks. We both thought this was a very good example of this dangerous classic, lots of rich dark chocolate, the right sort of sponge and not sickly sweet.
Our waiter made it plain that we had to try the Lemon Peel Madeleines with citrus curd. These are one of Humble Grape’s “Hero” dishes, and we could see why. Delicious.
There’s a feeling of escape from the outside world and the hustle of the City deep down below St Mary-le-Bow. This new branch of Humble Grape is a welcome addition to the area. We particularly enjoyed trying wines we would never have chosen ourselves. Next time I go, I’m ordering the whole baked Camembert (available in four different flavours), which I spied jealously on the next table.
Humble Grape Bow Lane is open from Monday to Friday, 7:30 AM to 10:30 PM, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Come summer, there will be terrace seating for 40 outside the historic church in addition to the 60 seats hidden below ground in the historic crypt.
St Mary Le Bow Church, Cheapside, London EC2V 6AU
Telephone: 020 3848 8809
Looking for something different? We also recommend the Liverpool Street Chop House for classic British dishes
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