Last Updated on February 17, 2026
4.0 out of 5.0 starsThe Cumberland’s New Tapas Restaurant Impresses
All too often, hotel restaurants lack character both from a design and gastronomic perspective. Trying to please an international clientele with different tastes and expectations, and to make sure that all generations and food preferences are catered for, often leads to bland, identikit menus built around classic crowd-pleasers. I don’t know why the management at the Cumberland decided to create Lírica, an unexpectedly good tapas restaurant in their hotel, but I’m pleased they did.
Lírica is high-ceilinged and airy with a scenic mountain mural mitigating the lack of daylight. The floor is white stone tiled, with the room being decorated in Mediterranean colours. There are upholstered chairs in terracotta and sage green with a featured bar and geometric mirrored panels adding character. It’s not quite the Andalusian plains, but you get the idea.
Talking of the bar, the restaurant has an exclusively Spanish wine list and a good-looking cocktail list. However, it being lunchtime, we were in the mood for a beer, a crisp Mahou from Madrid and a surprisingly satisfying no-alcohol San Miguel 00.
The menu is divided into small plates (tapas), large plates (raciones), sides and desserts. It is not too large to intimidate, and the dishes are familiar to anyone with a passing familiarity with Spanish cuisine.
We started with four small plates. My favourite Gordal olives were big and meaty, already pitted and served in a piquant marinade.
Chiperones, baby squid, came hot from the fryer, served with a poky aioli and lemon to make a crisp and dainty mouthful.
I’m a big fan of boquerones, marinated fresh anchovies. These were beautifully plated and served with crunchy baby fennel, radishes and good olive oil, creating a fresh and tasty dish.
The Lírica tortilla is called a Tortillango. I’m not sure why, but it’s a pretty name. The potato and onion omelette was light and properly wet inside, just the way it should be.
We ordered a couple of dishes from the large plates list. Grilled seabass was a satisfying portion, beautifully seared and served with a black olive tapenade, a warm tomato sauce, garlic and extra virgin olive oil.
Gambas pil-pil is a classic dish. Tiger prawns, smoky from the flame, were smeared with garlic, chilli, smoked paprika and then served on griddled bread, perfect to soak up the crustacean’s juices. With a solid chilli kick, this is the sort of tasty, rustic cooking I love.
A side dish of Patatas Anna, a crispy sliced potato cake flavoured with rosemary, thyme, Maldon salt and aioli, was an elegant Hispanic take on Pommes Anna, the French staple. Very moreish, it’s an on-trend dish that is popping up in various guises in many contexts at the moment.
A fresh and simple green salad of baby gem wedges and tomatoes was dressed with a sherry vinegar dressing.
I keep trying not to order desserts and end up failing miserably. The Torrijaso was a deliciously sweet treat. Eggy brioche bread with blossom honey, vanilla ice cream and pistachios had to be finished off. It didn’t help my waistline, but sometimes you just need to buy bigger trousers.
I was unexpectedly impressed with Lírica. There is a talented young Egyptian chef in the kitchen who has done his research and clearly cares about what goes on the plate. With service that is charming and informed, if you are in the Oxford St area or visiting the nearby Moco contemporary art museum (see our review) it makes a perfect pit-stop from shopping and sight-seeing, perfect for families and even a date night.
Lirica
The Cumberland Hotel,
Great Cumberland Place,
Marble Arch,
London,
W1H 7DL
+44 020 7523 5053
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