Last Updated on May 5, 2026
Mouth-watering meats from the Far East (Canary Wharf)
3.5 out of 5.0 starsMama Li, which promises succulent Cantonese roasted meats in cosy surroundings, has opened its third location in Canary Wharf. Founded by a mother-daughter team who were frustrated with a lack of authentic ‘Siu Mei’ (roast meat) in London. Their menu combines these meats, duck, pork, beef and vegan chicken, with rice, noodles and veg for a hearty dinner. All this inside what feels like a modernised version of those busy old Hong Kong cafés, buzzy and informal, but this time in expertly curated surroundings, recreating the silhouette of the original but with a Canary Wharf twist. And just around the corner from the Hunger Games play, a canny choice for a pre-show dinner.
We started with drinks, although they had sold out of their tea-based cocktails. A lychee garden mocktail was what we had instead. This was refreshing, tannic, and not a million miles away from the sorts of soft drinks popular in China. A favourite beverage of mine, it turns out, is mostly recommended for those with digestive issues, so while I wholeheartedly recommend sour plum tea, just be prepared for some sympathetic looks from the cashier when you check out. This drink had a similar medicinal quality, tempered by the lychee’s freshness.
One of our mains was a crispy roast pork noodle soup. Super flavourful and with nice and bouncy noodles, a quality which is called ‘QQ’. This is partially achieved through the use of basic water in the dough mix, as well as through gluten development during kneading in wheat noodles. The real star of the show, however, is of course the roast pork, which has a real depth of flavour and is a reason to visit in itself.
We also had shumai, a real dim sum classic and the test for quality in dim sum restaurants like Mama Li. A minced meat mix stuffed into wonton wrappers, so the meat peeks from the top. These fit the bill nicely and were properly tender and light.
Another main was the beef brisket with rice. This was meaty and soft with a flavourful liquor and a clear standout of the meal. Paired with a plump dome of white rice and pak choi, the beef was so full of lip-smacking yumminess that it seeped pleasingly into the rest of the dish.
We enjoyed the perfectly crisp and grease-free duck spring rolls. To visit a restaurant like Mama Li without trying the duck would be sacrilege, and it was just as you’d like it, melt in your mouth and, as a filling, made up of proper morsels and not a chewy mush that can sometimes fill spring rolls.
For dessert at Mama Li, we had deep-fried custard buns, another dim sum favourite with a twist: instead of delicate, steamed buns, these were burnished to a glistening gold, earth-shatteringly crisp, and filled with a steaming custard magma.
Our other dessert, exclusive to the new location, was a Bolo Bai with butter. This mildly sweet pineapple bread, named for its crackly crust rather than its flavour, was chewy and creamy, not unlike a brioche. However, inside we discover a large slab of salted butter. To say this was a surprise would be an understatement. However, in researching this piece, it is clear that this is the traditional filling, which creates extreme dissonance in the dish. Who are we to find fault in such thing, of course, when many of our fellow diners that night were clearly keen to enjoy the taste of home that this dish represents.
Overall, this casual and modern joint, with menus available via a QR code for ordering from your phone, is clearly filling a niche in dining in Canary Wharf, where many casual places close after commuters head home. Mama Li is also deft in bringing Hong Kong’s café scene to Canary Wharf without losing any of its charm or authenticity.
3 West Lane, Canary Wharf Estate, E22 3AA
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