Last Updated on December 6, 2021
Masalchi Scores in Wembley
Atul Kochhar is one of the key figures in transforming the perception of Indian cuisine in the UK. The two-Michelin-starred chef showcased his innovative approach at legendary restaurants including Tamarind and Benares. Atul has now expanded his restaurant portfolio under the brand Atul Kochhar Restaurants with Vassu and Sindhu at The Compleat Angler Hotel in Marlow, Hawkyns at The Crown Inn, Amersham, Indian Essence in Petts Wood, Kent and Riwaz in Beaconsfield. There’s also a 2022 Tunbridge Wells opening to come!
So, we are very pleased to have been invited to review Atul’s newest 120-cover restaurant Masalchi serving ‘hearty and rustic homely food’ in the lively new Wembley Park development around Wembley Stadium and near Wembley Park tube. Masalchi means spice master, or spice blender – we are expecting a flavour-packed pan-Indian feast replete with the street food influences that Atul so loves. The menu includes curries, grills, half-plates and traditional Handi, Masala and Kalia dishes.
The interior is modernist Indian chic with polished concrete floors and distressed concrete walls framing a large airy contemporary space. There’s a wooden lattice ceiling, gorgeous turquoise tiled pillars and a copper bar and light fittings. There is a fabulous tasting menu called The Spice Master’s Menu (both vegetarian and meat versions) and we are trying dishes from that as well as from the main menu. But first things first, which means a pint of Cobra Indian lager and a glass of Atul’s own label Sauvignon Blanc from Hungary. The wine is dry and crisp with a hint of grapefruit and is perfect with our poppadums and 5-spice-flavoured sweet mango and spicy tomato chutneys.
First out of the kitchen are two dishes that simply burst with flavour. Malwani Rubiyan features succulent tandoori-grilled king prawns from the Konkan coast with a cooling ‘kuchumber’ salad of red onion, cucumber and tomato and fresh mint chutney. There’s an onion bhaji on the side for good measure! Chicken 65 is a superbly spicy deep-fried chicken dish flavoured with curry leaves and red chillis from Chennai in South India. They certainly got our gastric juices flowing!
Next up was Aloo Kachori, a deliciously fragrant bread, and potato curry from Agra and Mathura made with ‘pie’ pastry. On a cold winter’s evening this was perfect comfort food – I had to stop myself from asking for more!
We tried two robust well-flavoured curries from the menu. A classic Chicken Tikka with the chicken marinated in red chilli paste was creamy and with a mild heat. The South Indian Macchi Masala fish curry had a spiced tomato sauce filled with flaky fish fillets.
For our sides Tarka Dal was luscious and soupy, our nan was perfectly charred bringing out the flavour and the Pulao rice was perfumed and not at all starchy.
We tried two desserts from the Masalchi menu. Gulab Jamun was a bowl of ricotta-like spongy cheese dumplings in a sweet light rose syrup. I’m not a fan of rose flavourings but this was so subtle it just added a hint of perfume. However, carrot fudge. topped with flaked almonds was my kind of dessert. Delicious and with just a hint of sweetness!
It’s lovely to eat a quality Indian meal of this type in a contemporary space The food at Masalchi is not meant to be high-end but it is gutsy, flavourful and priced very reasonably. You’ll find new dishes there that you’ll want to explore. Service is very informed and professional and if you are in the Wembley Park area it’s well worth a visit.
2 Wembley Park Boulevard, Wembley Stadium, Wembley Park HA9 0HP
Tel: 020 8634 8181.
I hope this reaches Mr Kalchur. His restaurant was waited for with much enthusiasm.
What a shame to disappoint so many would-be-fans.
Went to Masalchi, Wembley, London Designer Outlet this evening tonight for the first time. Was totally underwhelmed and disappointed. The food was bland, warm not hot in temperature; we had to send our mains back to be heated up. When they came back they were warmer, but not what you would give your family. We didn’t ask again as we could not be bothered. The pau bhaji potato pattie was dull and tasteless. The lamb a little better. The fish curry in coconut etc was gloopy. Like it had been reduced with cornflour and water. The naan was hot and reasonable, but very far from the best. Paneer was dull with no spice. I did not taste the channa small
plate as it looked so pale and not interesting. My daughter and I were totally deflated and disappointed by our visit. We come from an Indian family who know and understand good, spicy Indian food. Two Michellin Star chef or not – Mr Kotchlar, you need to be involved and on site in this particular venture-to make it stand for what you stand for! Excellence??