Last Updated on September 12, 2024
A Happy Find in Herne Hill – Park’s Edge Bar and Kitchen
Anyone who lives in South London will know that there are a wealth of excellent places to eat and drink that the rest of the world just don’t seem to know about. That’s how I like it – who wants the great unwashed from North of the River invading the south. I jest of course, but, there are certainly plenty of hidden gems in the part of London I now regard as home. When we are invited to try out places like Park’s Edge Bar and Kitchen, on the edge of Brockwell Park and a stone’s throw from Herne Hill Station I rejoice in the knowledge that I’m likely to find a relaxed place to eat with a menu that punches well above its price tag. In the case of Park’s Edge Bar and Kitchen that was definitely the case.
The menu is a kind of subtle fusion of the best kind of European food with a Caribbean twist. My welcome drink, a sorrel Bellini was the perfect example of that. For those who don’t know, Sorrel, as enjoyed in the Caribbean, is a ruby red infusion of hibiscus flowers to make a delicious, sweet cordial. Added to prosecco you have a kind of Bellini or, perhaps, a Kir Royale, but with the wonderful tangy notes of sorrel which you would recognise if you had tried it before. Delicious!
Pimento is another Caribbean ingredient that you might recognise better as ‘AllSpice’. The large seeds are crushed and sprinkled liberally on all kinds of dishes. I have some in the larder for making rice and peas, but here at Park’s Edge, you’ll find it garnishing many of the dishes. The taste, a kind of spice cocktail of cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and cloves, lends a unique twist to those dishes which include it.
The seared wild Atlantic scallop with crispy parma ham had just a little of it as a kind of garnish. Perfectly caramelised scallops were plump and tender and contrasted beautifully with the crisp, salty ham, while the accompanying julienne mange tout with carrot puree, radish and baby watercress was delicate and well balanced.
The Royal Greenland prawn cocktail felt quite retro, although the presentation was certainly not. I suspect that was the inclusion of Marie Rose Sauce (albeit homemade by Park’s Edge). A generous helping of avocado topped a mound of prawns sitting on berry and cardamom marinated cucumber. For me, the sauces overwhelmed the prawns and I was grateful for the accompanying avocado.
For our main courses, roasted hake with mussel and saffron cream broth served on spinach and potato cake was both beautiful to look at and utterly delicious. I will be trying my best to recreate this one at home – and when I fail, I’ll just hop on the train and make my way to Park’s Edge for more. Excellent flavour combinations and perfectly cooked fish made for a truly stunning dish.
Cornfed pimento chicken breast was pure comfort food with delicious chunks of tender fennel and potato in a rich sauce which to me seemed more tomato-based than wild mushroom and truffle. Nevertheless, it was delicious with a generous tender and moist chicken breast on top of the fennel and potato mixture.
Desserts were, of course, very much on the agenda and we loved the DiSaronno soaked apple crumble with a beautiful vanilla-infused creme anglais served on the side
Double biscotti baked vanilla cheesecake with a side of passion fruit sorbet also went down very well. My companion didn’t share (booo!) so I can’t comment on the flavours but it did look delicious.
What really makes Park’s Edge Bar and Kitchen special though is the vibe. The team is genuinely friendly and helpful and the tables are well spaced with comfy seating and, if you sit by the window or on the tiny outdoor terrace, a great view out over the park.
There’s a half-open kitchen and a very well-stocked bar. it’s the kind of place where you’d feel welcome for cocktails or a full-on meal. All it needs, from my point of view, is to be closer to home!
49 – 51 Norwood Rd,
London
SE24 9AA
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