Last Updated on May 20, 2024
Indulge Your Inner Sybarite
The inimitable Coco Chanel described luxury as being ‘the opposite of vulgarity’. The Petrossian Fine Foods & Gourmet Café is the epitome of luxury and refinement and I was lucky enough to be asked to review it. If you don’t know about Petrossian and, like me, your idea of heaven is eating caviar off a mother-of-pearl spoon with a shot of chilled vodka then, dear reader, read on.
The first Petrossian boutique opened in Paris in 1920. It was founded by Melkoum and Mouchegh Petrossian, refugees from Armenia whose father was a silkworm farmer from Tbilisi in Georgia. One of the brothers had married into a Russian family who traded in top-grade caviar – and so the business was born. It is still family-owned now, with production of the smoked and salted fish taking place in Angers in western France. Petrossian still has its showcase outlet in Paris, an institution in the city, at 18 Boulevard de La Tour-Maubourg, in addition to boutiques and restaurants in Brussels, Dubai, New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, and now London.
The Petrossian UK Fine Foods & Gourmet Café is situated in Brompton Cross in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea. it sits opposite the Michelin building and is just an elegant hop from South Ken tube. The retail side sells caviar, smoked salmon sliced to order, taramasalata, their own vodka and many other delicacies. But we have come to eat and drink on site.
There are velvet banquettes in a deep turquoise colour, wooden cabinets framing a gorgeous display of the products, a frosted stained-glass window that references Hokusai’s ‘Wave’ and a discreet jazzy soundtrack playing.
We drink a bottle of Louis Roederer Brut with its fine mousse and citrus and apple notes. There is a picture of a sturgeon on the plates so it seems fitting that we start with a caviar tasting, of course using the obligatory mother-of-pearl spoon to ensure that the precious eggs are not oxidised.
I have to say that this is a fabulous experience and if you have only tasted lower-grade caviar, it will be something of a revelation.
We are expertly guided throughout the evening by the charming and knowledgeable manager. Our first port of call is the Petrossian Oscietra Tsar Imperial. It’s the brand’s best-selling caviar from a sturgeon originally found in the Caspian Sea and is a medium size with an elegantly firm mouthfeel and a distinctly almond flavour profile.
Our second tasting is of the Daurenki Tsar Imperial. The eggs are the fruit of a natural hybrid breed of sturgeon, now cultivated in the Shanghai region. Its thick shell allows you to play with the eggs in your mouth and they have a seductive dark gold glint and a long aftertaste of dried apricots.
The Beluga Tsar Imperial caviar has a buttery, rich creaminess with a wonderful texture. The big grey eggs come from 30 years old Huso Huso sturgeon, originally from the Caspian Sea but now farmed in the Danube Valley. A perfect match with our champagne!
In contrast, Oeufs de Brochet Fumés (smoked pike) are honey-coloured with a gentle smoke aroma – they would be fabulous with potato or egg.
After our sublime caviar tasting, it is time to sample some of the more substantial dishes from the menu.
The soft creaminess of Burrata is lifted by a glorious caviar topping with courgette shavings, the crunch of toasted hazelnuts and a gentle hazelnut oil dressing playing their supporting roles perfectly. A small green salad comes lightly dressed letting the flavour of the leaves come through. The accompanying ratte potato has a light mayonnaise topping.
I eat a lot of smoked salmon and the Petrossian take on the summer staple is thick-cut and soft-textured with a smoky sweetness about the flesh. It’s served with creme fraiche, moreish pickled vegetables and fluffy, fresh, warm blinis. Between you and me it’s next-level smoked salmon!
I now need to announce the prize for the most luxurious baked potato in existence. With the flesh scooped out and blended into a smooth mash with cream and chives and then topped with a large dollop of Oscietra caviar, this wins hands down!
A plate of al dente rigatoni pasta is slathered with a cream sauce and then covered in glorious white, summer truffle. In a review filled with superlatives, this is another one.
Because you can clearly never have enough caviar, we choose a light, fluffy dark chocolate mousse for dessert with little mounds of Oscietra caviar providing a sweet, salty counterpoint to the cocoa.
A perfect cup of coffee comes with extraordinary sweet truffle macarons, plain and luscious caramel canelles and lemony white chocolates. At this point, I am ready to die and go to heaven.
With summer coming, Petrossian will be opening a small outdoor terrace which is just another reason to come and indulge your inner sybarite. I had a fabulous time there and if you have the opportunity to invest in a little luxury then you won’t be let down.
6 Fulham Rd
South Kensington
London
SW3 6HG
England
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