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You are here: Home / Restaurant / The Cavendish – Review

The Cavendish – Review

June 29, 2016 (2016-06-29T20:55:32+01:00) by Dr Adrian York 1 Comment

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Last Updated on April 19, 2017

Dining at the Cavendish, Marylebone:

New CavendishI have reviewed The Cavendish several times before most notably in its last iteration when El Bulli trained chef Alfonso Lillo Fas offered classic  French, Italian and Spanish dishes with formal service, linen and a tableside Crepes Suzette that was pure theatre. With an interior that is a fusion between a masculine 1940s club and contemporary Soho, The Cavendish feels warm and comfortable without being overly stylised. The newly appointed Italian head chef, Douglas Santi, has some serious form initially working under gastro-god and  Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse and then as head chef of the award-winning Italian eatery Babbo in Mayfair.  With Douglas and a new general manager leading the charge The Cavendish is going for a more informal atmosphere now with a modern European and produce-led approach serving all-day brunch, lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Suppliers include butcher Audrey Allen, the Queen’s butcher and local cheese specialists La Fromagerie. The_Cavendish_Drinks_4-2 (2)I had been invited to sample dishes from the new menu with a cheery band of bloggers and things warm up quickly after a Negroni Sbagliato or two (the delicious younger lighter sibling of the classic Italian cocktail made with Prosecco replacing the gin as the medium for blending the Campari and sweet vermouth).

The Cavendish Lobster slidersLobster and avocado sliders were delicious. The light eggy brioche bun was stuffed with fresh lobster. Served in the same buns were beef sliders, a tasting version of The Cavendish’s cheeseburger. What was noticeable in both was the quality of the ingredients. They were a good match with the citrus and apple notes of our bottle of Chardonnay Tomaresca 2015 from Apulia.
The Cavendish croque monsieurThe Cavendish’s Croque Monsieur must surely be the most indulgent in London tasting as good as it looks!
The Cavendish eggs benedict 2Mini Cavendish eggs benedict had golden yolks, a rich hollandaise and a slice of  smoked salmon to add some salty flavour.
The Cavendish prawn quinoaI loved the Quinoa and Prawn Tabbouleh. The prawns were fresh and tasty and the delicately spiced crunch of the quinoa was the perfect complement.
The Cavendish steak tartarCavendish beef tartare was delicately spiced  with great meat.
The Cavendish tuna tartarI only had three portions of the Tuna tartar, avocado and chili …
The Cavendish lasagnaMains were accompanied by a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Rita 2010. It had great body and was packed with luscious blackcurrant and vanilla flavours which could handle the famous 100 layer lasagna based on a family recipe handed down to Douglas by his grandmother. This was not a dish to be argued with. The (not quite 100!) layers were actually thin crepes rather than pasta making this a lighter form of indulgence than the original.  
The Cavendish steakRib-eye, béarnaise and triple-cooked chips was for the serious carnivores. A big hunk of full flavoured meat with great chips and a rich blob of tarragony béarnaise sauce.
The Cavendish artichokeJosper baked artichokes were baked under a herby breadcrumb topping giving the dish a terrific savoury crunch.
The Cavendish dessertsBy the time the selection of mini-desserts arrived I was pretty full but the salted caramel tart was great!
The Cavendish cheeseA wonderful pair of cheeses from La Fromagerie came out with quince jelly Spanish style. For relaxed casual all-day dining The Cavendish has to be the go-to place in Marylebone. I was concerned that the quality previously achieved would be lost but with careful product sourcing, a skilled chef, a carefully curated interesting drinks offer and an on trend menu they have pulled it off. It’s just the sort of place Marylebone needs. I’ll be back….
35 New Cavendish Street,Marylebone, W1G 9TR
reservations@35newcavendish.com/020 7487 3030

 

Filed Under: Restaurant, Marylebone Tagged With: Brasserie, Marylebone

Dr Adrian York

About Dr Adrian York

Dr Adrian York is a musician, academic and writer specialising in opera, theatre and restaurant reviews as well as writing and broadcasting about popular culture. He studied music under Jonathan Harvey at the University of Sussex and then at the Guildhall School of Music and brings unparalleled expertise to his craft.

With a day job lecturing in music at the University of Westminster and playing the piano at night at London’s Groucho Club, Dr York is a prize-winning writer with many articles published in London Unattached, The Independent, The Huffington Post and The Conversation as well as being a regular interviewee on the BBC.

Contact Adrian@London-Unattached.com

Comments

  1. Stevie Wilson says

    June 30, 2016 at (2016-06-30T01:17:51+01:00)

    What a fantastic tasting menu! That looks so amazing. I would love the lasagna, the steak,. several of the smaller plates too. YUM!!

    Reply

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