Last Updated on May 21, 2026
A Sicilian Feast in East London Inspired by the Volcanic Landscapes of Mount Etna and Stromboli
4.5 out of 5.0 starsOnce a collection of warehouses, factories and neglected canal-side spaces, Hackney Wick has transformed over the last ten years into one of East London’s most creative neighbourhoods. These spaces now house breweries, bakeries, cocktail bars and cool, ambitious food concepts. Almost hidden to those who don’t know, Unlock Pizza sits by the water on Monkhood Way. It’s easily mistaken for a gallery or a book shop as you peek through the floor-to-ceiling windows. But a series of creative, culinary menus is about to explode.

Unlock’s new residency series called ‘Volcanic Kitchens and Wines’ seems very apt for this area as the concept is rooted in transformation. Just as volcanic landscapes create fertile new ground from devastating destruction, Hackney Wick has evolved into a place where creatives can take root and flourish.
The concept is really clever. Hosted at Unlock Pizza in Hackney Wick, the monthly residency takes volcanic territories as its culinary starting point and then experiments with the food cultures there shaped by the lava-rich landscapes, mineral-heavy soils and dramatic landscapes. The ‘every day’ Unlock menu already gives more than just a pizza joint vibes but these residencies give the already talented chefs, Emanuele Esposito, Giovanni Izzo and Bruno Rogers, more creative playtime!

The opening residency focused on Sicily – a very fitting choice given the island’s ongoing relationship with Etna and Stromboli. I consider Sicily to be one of the great loves of my life, having honeymooned there nearly 30 years ago and visited again for my 25th wedding anniversary with my family. The cuisine is historic, adventurous and impossible to separate from its terrain.
The citrus, tomatoes, pistachios, olives and wine grapes that grow there are deeply flavoured by the volcanic terrain. The island’s position in the Mediterranean layers Arab, Spanish and North African influences into its cooking. What fun the chefs must have had creating this menu and distilling all these influences into a series of dishes that were vibrant and flavourful.
The evening began with Unlock’s dough on charcoal with San Marzano tomato ragù and an artichoke spread. Unlock is already known for its Neapolitan pizzas, and the quality of the dough here is on a par with the best pizza joints in central London and NYC. The tomato ragù was intensely sweet and earthy and the artichoke rich and buttery. The crispy artichokes on top took me right back to Catania market.

Next, a pizzette topped with anchovy, buffalo stracciatella, Salina Capers and Sicilian lemon zest. Such a balanced mouthful. Umami anchovy, cooling stracciatella and sharp capers. But it was the lemon that tied it all together.

Onwards with busiate, smoked aubergine and pesto Trapanese. The spiral-shaped pasta is traditionally associated with western Sicily held the sauce well and had a nice bite. The combination of smoked aubergine and the pesto Trapanese (tomatoes, almonds and basil) made this dish sweet as well as smoky.

Grilled bream fresh from the market with Sicilian Limoni was perhaps my favourite dish of the evening. The fish was delicately seared and served crispy skin side up on those huge Tropea onions that work so well with lemon. Again, I was transported to the beach opposite Isola Bella near Taormina, feet in sand, slurping the onions my children had left on their plates.

Salads sometimes are an afterthought on experimental menus but the blood orange and fennel salad here demands your attention. I hope they keep it on the menu. Sweet, acid, colour and aniseed working together to remind us that exceptional produce remains central to Unlock’s philosophy of cooking.

Dessert continued the volcanic theme with Annurca apple gelato, made by the clever folks at Wave, topped with a black crumb designed to resemble volcanic earth. The gelato was distinctly a gelato versus a sorbet – sharp but creamy which prevented the dessert from being too sweet. It concluded a playful, creative meal served with pride by the kitchen team.

Themed dining experiences can sometimes be a bit of pomp rather than substance, but the volcanic concept here really does draw on the land, its produce freshly available in the UK specifically and culinary traditions of the home country. Volcanic regions across the world share fertile soils and dramatic landscapes but their cuisines differ radically. Upcoming residencies will focus on Japan, Mexico and Indonesia. Perhaps they will explore fermentation traditions in Japan, chilli cultivation in Mexico and spice routes through Indonesia. I can’t wait to taste them.
For now though, the Sicilian opening menu set a high bar. Not only was it delicious but it succeeded in transporting me, if only for an evening, to the black lava soil, citrus groves, fruit orchards and vineyards of this beautiful island and left me planning my return – to Sicily and this little hidden corner of Hackney Wick.
Future residencies will be announced on Unlock’s Instagram.

Volcanic Kitchens and Wines Residency at Unlock Pizza, Hackney Wick
1 Monkwood Way, E3 2EG
For general enquiries call 020 3906 8829
For more Italian food in London try Macellaio RC Soho Sunday Italian Feast, The Italian Greyhound or Rottura.

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