Last Updated on August 12, 2022
New Smithfield cocktail bar and eatery – Review
A stone’s throw from the new Elizabeth Line Farringdon station entrance and fronting onto Smithfield meat market, The Long Lane has that kind of brutalist ‘son of Barbican’ look to it. Exposed brickwork, leather chairs and barstools and lots of concrete give the place a contemporary feel. It’s a new opening, though somehow manages to feel as if it’s always been there – unpretentious and with customers who all look as if they just might be regulars. After spending an evening there, we both agreed it would be somewhere to revisit – great food, a concise but interesting wine and beer list and quirky cocktails mean there’s something for everyone. At prices that won’t make your bank manager cry too – the most expensive bottle of wine is a crémant de Limoux at £39, while there’s wine by the glass for under £6 and cocktails starting at £8.50.
I’m not quite young and trendy enough to have made it to The Racketeer in King’s Cross or to AKA/The End and Village Underground. But that doesn’t stop me from appreciating the laidback vibe at The Long Lane – it’s quite a challenge to make somewhere new seem like an old friend. But, founders Jack Foxcroft, Tyvian Vigrass and Marco Torre have a history of running some great places and The Long Lane seems destined to join their portfolio of successes.
Starting with a glass of chilled crémant, I indulged in a little people (and dog) watching while I waited for my companion to arrive. Running through the drinks list I convinced myself he’d be ordering a beer…and in a way he did. Black Velvet for me is a hangover from university days – we made ours with Guinness and whatever sparkling wine we had on hand. Here it’s London Porter (I’d guess the Anspach & Hobday London Black from the beer list) topped up with crémant . Served in a beer tankard, you can easily pretend you have too much testosterone for a cocktail…
Actually, though, the cocktails I ordered were not too sweet and definitely not the sort where you’d find a cocktail parasol perched on top. I started with a rather delicious ‘unfinished fizzness’ – made with vodka, apricot, cynar (think aperol on speed!), maple syrup and egg white. Just the right balance of bitter-sweetness for me – and I love that frothy finish you get with egg whites!
Meanwhile, our food began to appear. The evening menu at The Long Lane is concise but full of things I just wanted! In the end we asked the guy who was serving us to pick his favourites – an easy solution if you really can’t choose. Cauliflower with confit cherry tomato, cashew cream, roasted chickpeas and salsa verde was packed with flavour. Vegan and gluten free, the only people who would have to give this one a miss are those with a nut allergy.
My favourite plate was of handpicked Kerala spiced crab, fresh coconut, yoghurt and chives served on paratha bread. With just the right amount of kick, this was a light, beautifully spiced dish, with generous helpings of the crab and coconut mixture
It’s the kind of plateful I’d love to recreate at home but wouldn’t have a clue where to start!
Our veggie broad bean, pea and tarragon croquettes came with a delicious summer herb aioli. A great crispy shell was complemented by a tender, moist, vegetal filling. I have to confess, the tarragon didn’t really cut through for me, but it wasn’t missed. A good vegetarian option or something to enjoy as a healthy snack!
Prize for the ugly duckling plate goes to the oak smoked beef rib with romesco, pickled red onion and toasted almond. While it wins no prizes for looks, the fall-apart meat with its delicious accompaniments made for an explosion of flavours and textures. Toasted almond as a garnish sounds unlikely on paper, but just worked!
Now, just because you always need fries, I ordered the totally unnecessary but definitely worth the inch on the hips French fries with truffle oil and freshly grated parmesan.
I’m coming to the conclusion that someone should start serving Parmesan fries without the truffle oil – much as I love it, with good, freshly grated Parmesan you just don’t need the extra truffle oil.
Time for another cocktail! My companion liked his Black Velvet enough to repeat the experience, while I went for the Greengo with tequila, mezcal, lime, cucumber, mint and agave. Lighter and more refreshing than I’d expected it was something like a long version of a margarita crossed with a mojito! If you do pop in for a drink during the next heatwave, this one is my personal recommendation.
For dessert, we shared the burnt bourbon cheesecake, creamy and rich with a lovely treacly finish from the burnt bourbon topping.
The food at The Long Lane is the work of the team at Babel, founders of the Yeah! Burger food truck. I was genuinely impressed and am planning to go back with a mission to try the Hereford beef sliders and the mini Korean fried chicken tortillas. And, more of those fries with Parmesan, and maybe house pickles for good measure. I don’t think I’ll be waiting too long!
The Long Lane is open from Wednesday to Friday, from 12pm to 12am, and Saturday from 4pm to 12am. To make a reservation, please visit https://www.thelonglane.co.uk or call 0203 874 0542.
50-52 Long Lane, London EC1A 9EJ
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